Romanian PSL questions

[Guamsst]

Just got a brand new PSL. Took it out and got the barrel broke in. Was wondering if anyone else has one and how they like it. Also was wondering if anyone knew a link to a good page for how to zero the scope.

I am not much of one for a scoped rifle, but I like the Dragunov style rifles. The trigger pull is AMAZING!! smooth, crisp, light.......actually a bit scary. I haven't really sat down and tried to shoot a group out of it yet.

For those of you that have owned them or own one now, how do you like them?
How's your accuracy?
How's your trigger pull?
How's the reliability?

[Art]

Our son bought one of these rifles at an Air Force BX, and we shot it a good bit so here goes.

1. Accuracy in his is more than acceptable for a D.M. (Designated Marksman) rifle with a four power 'scope. 2 m.o.a. groups are not that hard to shoot with Com Bloc light ball (148 gr) which is what the rifle and 'scope are set up for.

2. The trigger pull is military two stage but on his the second stage is very light.

3. Reliability on our son's was, as befitting a Kalashnikov design, 100%

4. Zeroing (calibrating) the 'scope (it is advisable to let the rifle cool a bit between shots: )

(a) Bring a lot of ammo because this takes time.
(b) Put the deflection turret on "0" and the elevation turret on "1"
(c) put up a large paper target at 25 yards and using the top chevron fire one shot.
loosen the set screws on the top of the deflection and elevation turrets and adjust using the thin knurled ring at the top only (stigna means left,) do not turn the whole turret. retighten the set screws, fire another round and repeat until you are on at 25 yards.
(d) Once at point of aim at 25 yards move the target to 100 meters and repeat until hitting point of aim at 100 yards or meters with the elevation set on "1."
(e) When this is accomplished your rifle is calibrated with light ball from 100 meters to the theoretical maximum range of the weapon. Moving the elevation drum to "2" will now result in a hit at point of aim (P.O.A = minute of thorax) give or take a couple of inches, at 200 meters, moving the elevation turret to "3" at 300 meters and so forth, past 1,000 meters use the lower chevrons (yes it works.)

I would estimate the rifle's accurate range for its intended purpose in the hands of a competent operator to be 400 to 600 meters.

If your 'scope/mount combination is either loose on the rifle's side rail or won't slide on the rail all the way or at all; there is an adjustment nut on the bottom of the integral 'scope mount. To adjust it remove the sight, push down with your thumb on the take off lever and your finger on the locking block to release the nut, do not press on the nut! This will free the adjusting nut (rightie tightie, leftie loosie.) Adjust until tight.

Non corrosive light ball is highly recommended by us because it is newer and clean up is easier. Ammunition heavier than light ball or ammo loaded hotter than mil spec. (not likely unless you hand load) may damage the rifle long term. It was made for just that load.

Finally, as with any of these Com Bloc style rifles assembled to get around the current import restrictions and the "once a machine gun always a machine gun" rule, your results may vary.

Hope this helps

[Art]

P.S. to my above. Extra magazines in good condition are still not too, too expensive but they are getting hard to find. If you want some I would stock up now. A lot of the available magazines have been stored badly and are in very rough shape.

[Guamsst]

Thanks Art. I was using new production TulAmmo/Ulyanovsk (SAME THING) 158gr Unfortunately all the surplus I have is either car crushing heavy ball or anti material rounds I am saving for the Zombie apocalypse. I will look for lighter ammo. I absolutely love the concussive BLAM when I touch it off. Accuracy seems like it will be fair enough. It wasn't built for olympic shooting, but for supressive fire and decent accuracy. The Russians took note after ww2 that most sniper kills were at 100-200yds.

Oh, my mount had to be hammered on even after I beveled the edges in a few spots and cleaned the heck out of the rails so, yes, it's TIGHT. I adjusted the locking block too.

[ltcboy]

At .19 cents a round, you cannot complain. Mine is accurate as hell and it's a blast to shoot.

[Bill Browning]

I like mine also and I got one that the scope will light up using a AA batt. Most that my daughters shop got in were the ones that did not use batteries and they were dead. where did you get the light ball ammo? I have just shot mine at 50 yrds using the open sights. I need to get some of the 148 to sight her in right.

[Art]

I like mine also and I got one that the scope will light up using a AA batt. Most that my daughters shop got in were the ones that did not use batteries and they were dead. where did you get the light ball ammo? I have just shot mine at 50 yrds using the open sights. I need to get some of the 148 to sight her in right.

Light ball is very common, probably the most common of all the 7.62x54r ammo. Wolf (and other Russian manufacturers) sell current production commercial non corrosive mil spec light ball for $12.00 to $16.00 for 20. Outfits like Sportsman's Guide and J&G Sales often have this ammo for sale at very economical prices in bulk. Some question how non corrosive it really is but I don't do anything special to clean up after using it and have yet to see a spec of rust.

Milsurp corrosive light ball is even cheaper, under $100.00 for 440 rounds in a sealed spam can and both J&G and Sportsman's Outlet routinely stock this ammo. It is definately corrosive and even though the piston and bore are chrome plated appropriate cleaning methods are a good idea and the gas cylinder and other parts will rust.

Both varieties are usually available at gun shows.

In addition, Privi Partisan makes a 150 gr. pointed soft point which fits in the light ball envelope and should work well with the PSL 54C system.

[DMark]

If you do buy more PSL mags, check the springs. Lots of PSL’s jam because the spring is installed backwards. Here is a link that shows the correct install.

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67730

http://i56.tinypic.com/w9v894.jpg

[DMark]

Also......

Check to make sure that your receiver has the grip bolt installed. Some PSL builds did not drill a hole for the bolt to be installed. Without the grip bolt accuracy can suffer because the rear stock can move under recoil.

Easy to check. Remove the grip cap cover and look inside. You should see the nut for the bolt if its installed.

If its not there the good news is that Cope's has the bolt. Here is a link to a thread that I wrote about installing the grip bolt.

http://www.theakforum.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=131441

[Guamsst]

Ok Art, when you say set screws, do you mean the center screws that have the capture screw on them or the two outer screws on the turrets? Tried to zero it last weekend but decided to leave it alone until I was positive of what I was doing.

[Art]

Ok Art, when you say set screws, do you mean the center screws that have the capture screw on them or the two outer screws on the turrets? Tried to zero it last weekend but decided to leave it alone until I was positive of what I was doing.

You losen the two outer screws on the tops of the turrets.. Don't touch the center screw

[Guamsst]

You losen the two outer screws on the tops of the turrets.. Don't touch the center screw

Thanks art, will try it again next time I go to the farm. It's a blast to shoot but I'm not excited about dialing in 600yds elevation and a boatload of windage just to shoot cans....LOL

[Art]

Thanks art, will try it again next time I go to the farm. It's a blast to shoot but I'm not excited about dialing in 600yds elevation and a boatload of windage just to shoot cans....LOL

Good luck. Its an excuse to blast off a bunch of ammo, always a good thing.