Leatherwood USMC sniper scope release date [Archive]

Brazos

03-13-2012, 09:13

Got mine in, #221. Cant speak to whether it fits original blocks, but I did notice that the rear block does not extend past the front of the mount...so you cannot mount the rear block flush up against the rear sight base as on originals.

I am impressed with the scope. Nicely blued. Very positive clicks on the rear mount. Finish on the blocks is very durable...I tried to cratch it off and could not.

The front mount seems very stiff on the scope, but maybe it will move more freely when it is locked down and unable to twist and bind. The manual is good...but I dont understand how to set the paralax adjustment. The scope body is marked 100, 200, & 50 yards. The ring is marked 0-9. A little help there would be appreciated.

holdover

03-13-2012, 09:53

"but I did notice that the rear block does not extend past the front of the mount...so you cannot mount the rear block flush up against the rear sight base as on originals."

This may not be a good thing, have to look into this.

GcS

03-13-2012, 03:36

Al, a few questions please; quality, fit finish, does it fit original mounting blocks well, can't wait to hear how it holds up shooting.. I know i speak for many who have been waiting for them to finally be available

#169. Optics look decent enough -- considering I just back from the optimetrist and my dilated pupils are still the size of saucers. Scope body shows some finish wear from the rear mount, but nothing that can't be hidden with a little oxpho-blue. Tried to mount the scope on my H&R M12 and the front mount slid in place easily. The rear started and hung up, so there might be a bur on the block or -- more likely -- the mount that needs to be dressed.

If the rear mount tracks reliably I'm sure I'll be happy with the scope.

Floyd1977

03-13-2012, 05:19

""but I did notice that the rear block does not extend past the front of the mount...so you cannot mount the rear block flush up against the rear sight base as on originals."

This may not be a good thing, have to look into this. "

If this is important, the sight bases made by Standard Parts LLC fit just fine flush. Otherwise the scope looks nice - #250 arrived this afternoon but I'm heading off on a trip so I won't be able to mess around with it much.

k arga

03-16-2012, 10:45

just got mine ser no 150 , my luck is still as good as usual, rear stop bent and no threads for the front lens cover it just falls out of the scope

Greg Ficklin

03-16-2012, 11:36

Received mine #00187 from Creedmoor Sports. I am very pleased with it. The biggest difference from a vintage Unertl is the lazer printing of the model, serial number, and objective lens graduations on the Malcolm, Vs the original marking process that resembles a stamping that can be remarked by filling with fresh paint. This is a cheaper way to permanently mark the scopes that clearly differentiates them from an vintage scope that has no effect on it's performance. They have done a great job with this scope.

Jim S.

03-16-2012, 12:13

I got my scope a couple of days ago (00300). While mine had no problems (not counting the bad blocks), a number of those that went out from my dealer did have the problem with the front lens cover. All in all it should go quite nicely with my 1903 sniper build.

TW56

03-28-2012, 05:58

Any range reports on how the micrometer mount adjustments worked ?

Are elevation changes between different yardage repeatable?

Any range report information welcome.

TW56

wolley

04-03-2012, 03:24

Got mine Saturday. #326
Most of the metal is typical Chinese crude. Threads feel rough, edges have not been softened at all.
I wouldn't call the finish blue. I'm not sure what it is. Have you ever bought Chinese furniture and noticed the supplied screws? Black finish and coated with a light machine oil? Same thing on the scope. I was afraid that with the amount of oil on it that it would be all over the lenses but they were clear.
Crosshairs are fairly heavy. Optics appear to be very good, much better than I expected.
Front bell adjustment is just wierd. I've never held a real Unertl so maybe that is normal.
I'm still a few weeks away from getting it mounted. I need to get a custom rear block from Steve Earl to match the Bubba scope mounting holes in my receiver and then work up the nerve to drill and tap the barrel.

k arga

04-04-2012, 05:05

just got my replacement scope from leatherwood, orig ser no was 150 new one is 362. Looks to be better finish and the dust caps don't fall out. Looking at the rear block i think that they milled the lock stud cut backwards, should have been cut off center the other way to use it, the orig that i have are longer and on center.

TW56

04-04-2012, 05:35

Do you think the optics of the Hi-Lux scope are good enough quality that if you took the Hi-Lux mounts off and replaced them with a pair of original Unertl mounts you would end up with a decent scope?

TW56

Jim in Salt Lake

04-05-2012, 08:37

Supposedly they did a lot of work on the mounts for these, improvement over the previous Malcolm mounts for the earlier scopes. Time will tell, I've got #115 getting mounted now. Will find out how well the mounts work when I get the rifle back and on the range.

k arga

04-05-2012, 12:06

just got my replacement scope, see above post, now i can't break loose the objective lens adj, anybody have the same problem and how did you fix.

jgaynor

04-05-2012, 09:28

just got my replacement scope, see above post, now i can't break loose the objective lens adj, anybody have the same problem and how did you fix.

Turning the front lens element on an original adjusted the scope for parellax. If it doesn't turn easily i think you had best send it back. Not the best news but bound to be some problems with ealy production of an item like this.

Regards
Jim

wolley

04-06-2012, 05:31

just got my replacement scope, see above post, now i can't break loose the objective lens adj, anybody have the same problem and how did you fix.
Mine was tight also. I had to hold the back ring with a pair of jaw protected channellocks and use a craftsman strap wrench on the bell. Once loose all is good. The design of these two causes them to lock together really tight. It doesn't take much force to lock them together where it takes tools to loosen. Is the same design that the real Unertls use? It is kind of weird design. The front bell pushes the lens set in and the adjusting ring pushes the lens set out.

fkienast

04-07-2012, 03:14

I had to do the same thing to loosen my objective lens. Now it is good to go. Now to find someone to mount it on my double heat treated receier. Serial # 152. No loose scope caps.

pelago

04-19-2012, 05:51

Seem to see quite a few shall we say complaints, the dollar amount on this scope makes it NOT CHEAP

I just ordered a complete rifle from Creedmore, curious comments from those who have anticipated for quite a while, and comments are not kind
comments??

Todd1035

04-29-2012, 01:33

Have you received your rifle from Creedmore? If not when did you expect to see it. Thanks, I'm considering purchasing one myself.

Seem to see quite a few shall we say complaints, the dollar amount on this scope makes it NOT CHEAP

I just ordered a complete rifle from Creedmore, curious comments from those who have anticipated for quite a while, and comments are not kind
comments??

Jim S.

04-30-2012, 06:38

Here's a picture of my 03-A1 build. The donor gun was a 1.4 M Greek return, the wood is from CMP, the barrel is a Krieger match barrel, and, of course, the scope is a new Hi-Lux USMC Sniper. To date I've only had a chance to break in the barrel and fire a few rounds. However, those were enough to know that I have to adjust the bedding.

With respect to the scope, the optics seem just fine, no complaints at all. The mounts, however, leave a bit to be desired. While the windage adjustment seems to give a positive click when it's moved, the elevation adjustment is very mushy and you really can't count the clicks. However, so far the settings seem to hold when the rifle is fired. Using a large screw driver I was able to get the mounts to tighten so as not to become loose during firing (at least as of now); however, a number of the guys have found that they have to lock tight the mounts after tightening.

I hope to make some adjustments to the bedding and take it out to the range again soon. Regardless of the complaints, I'm looking forward to some enjoyable days at the range.

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n639/schinnerj/011-1.jpg

Jim in Salt Lake

04-30-2012, 02:23

I just shot mine this past Saturday. Rifle is a Springfield high number that came with a side mounted Weaver 330. With that scope, the rifle shot MOA with Sierra 169 MKs. With the Leatherwood, I started out the same but it quickly went to a 3 inch group at 100 yards. Both scope blocks had loosened up. When I tightened the first screw, it stripped. Examining the barrel threading showed that was still good. All the thread slipping was on the screw. I tossed all the screws, for both blocks, and replaced them with American made screws. I would recommend that you don't even use the screws provided and get good screws. My replacements tightened right up and the scope seems solid now. I also used Loc-tite. My windage and elevation adjustments seemed positive and I got good clicks from both. We've got a highpower practice match this Saturday, I'm going to shoot this rifle for the 600 yard stage and see how it goes. I'd shoot the whole course with it but I can't use the clip feed, the scope is in the way, for the rapids. Other than the cheap a$$ screws, I'm happy so far. Optics are good, just need some more experience with the elevation and windage knobs to pass judgement on them.

4F4Nam

04-30-2012, 10:52

Well, you have a damned fine looking rifle anyway! Hope you get the bugs worked out!

Ed

GillaFunk

05-01-2012, 01:39

Here's a picture of my 03-A1 build.

THAT is BEAUTIFUL! I would love to get something exactly like that. WOW!

pelago

05-01-2012, 02:03

been hearing some stories that the mounts are "mushy" (if that is correct description) and that it is hard to determine clicks??

are the mount identical to unertl, i have several unertl scopes and was thinking that i could simply change out the mounts, if they are in fact identical,

or another off the wall, several unertl repair places, work on mounts?? thinking out loud, i have ordered a rifle from creedmore

Jim S.

05-01-2012, 02:12

A friend has several original Marine sniper scopes, and I think extra mounts. At any rate, he put the original mounts on the Hi-Lux scope and they work fine.

pelago

05-01-2012, 02:32

that is good information, and now another item to keep an eye out for

Gunny.b

05-04-2012, 10:12

Jim S. congrats, you did a really nice job!

Let us know how it shoot.

Floyd1977

05-05-2012, 03:17

http://s629.photobucket.com/albums/uu19/floyd1977/?action=view&current=002.jpg

Took Hi-Lux #250 to the range today. Shot 30 rounds of M2 Ball and it held together just fine - nothing shifted or felt loose. Group was OK - will try Match ammo next trip. Optics are VERY clear compared to a real Unertl. So far, I like it! Oh - a high number 1918 drill receiver that came with a USMC Sedgley bbl dated 1941 so it might have Marine Corps provonance. The receiver cleaned up nicely and I had a straight, nice-shooting 1944 USMC Sedgley barrel put on it.

Brazos

05-05-2012, 10:21

Jim in Salt lake,

What sort of screws did you buy as replacements and where did you get them?

Jim in Salt Lake

05-06-2012, 12:38

I bought 3/8" #6X40 screws for the front block and 1/2" for the rear block. They had allen heads and the heads were the same size as the Chinese screws. The big boxes (Lowe's and Home Depot) only had #6X32s, you should call some hardware stores out of your yellow pages and ask if they have them. That's what I did and found a store that had them. I didn't want to wait for an internet order after waiting 2 years for the scope. I also Loc-tited them.

We had a Xcross practice match yesterday and I shot the rifle during the 600 yard stage. I put just shy of 30 rounds through it. Like Floyd1977, I thought the optics were pretty darn good. I could see the 3" spotter with ease. You can also read the mirage, I stopped using my spotting scope for that. I've never used genuine Unertl mounts so I can't tell you how the Hi-Lux mounts compare but I thought the clicks were OK. I could count them and I felt like I was getting the results I wanted when I dialed in wind changes. I'll play around with it more, we have a mid range practice in a couple of weeks. Yesterday, I was just trying to get on paper and shoot a bunch to stress the mounts. Everything held just fine.

In fact, the whole scope seemed to loosen up in a good way, parts that were very tight at first have gotten smoother. The scope slides more smoothly through the rings when you shoot or pull it back into battery. My parallax adjustment and sun shade also got smoother. By the way, I don't have a clue how to adjust this and it didn't seem to have much effect. I'd appreciate some comments or suggestions on that. Spend some time with the eyepiece focus, that really helps. Again, the optics are pretty good. One part that is still stiff is the front recoil stop, this is the ring that stops the scope when you pull it back after a shot. It's also how you adjust your eye relief. I couldn't get mine to move and the eyepiece was a little too close, I didn't try to force anything out there and just lived with it. I'll play with it tonight here at home with the right tools.

So far, I'm pretty happy. It ain't perfect but the scope has potential and I have confidence that Leatherwood will get the shortcomings sorted out. I'm going to take it to Camp Perry but there are three of us going so I won't be shooting it there. I've got two junior shooters, my 20 year old son and another 17 year old boy, going with me and the game is teams of two. So I figured why not have two steely eyed, hard holding juniors see how they can do against all those fat old men?

Brazos

05-06-2012, 05:30

Thanks for the info on the screws. Mine are borderline stripped out (the bolts) and are slightly bent from tightening the thumb screw with a screwdriver. Will pick some up in the morning at the local Bolt & Screw.

I found the best way to adjust the forward stop is to use a Phillips head on the screw. I couldnt get the thumb screw to loosen by hand, but using the screw driver on the opposite side loosened it right up and snugged it back down when I got it adjusted.

Jim in Salt Lake

05-07-2012, 07:13

Brazos, are you talking about the stops for recoil scope movement? I played with mine last night and also found that those thumb knobs are just lock nuts. The stops are tightened up with the Phillips screw and then locked with the thumb knobs. That's why I couldn't get the front stop adjusted at the range by just loosening the thumb knob. Fixed all that last night. Be careful with these screws, they felt pretty soft to me like the scope block screws.

Brazos

05-07-2012, 04:41

#6's were too small. The bolts on mine are thicker...back to the screw store.

wolley

05-08-2012, 04:17

Jim was talking about the screws to hold the mounting blocks to the rifle.
I have no idea what size the screws in the mount clamps are. Mine are so boogered up it is doubtful that they can be removed and if removed there won't be enough thread left to determine what size they were.

Jim in Salt Lake

05-08-2012, 09:31

Yeah, I was talking about the screws for the blocks, 6X40. I managed not to screw up my lock ring screws so I don't know the size of them. Next time I'm up town where I got the 6X40 screws, I'm going to take a lock ring screw and the thumb nut and try to get US made screws and nuts to replace them. I really don't care what they look like, just want them to work.

Brazos

05-08-2012, 11:06

I didnt have any trouble with the screw on the lock rings. But I only loosened them once to reset and as I mentioned I used a Phillips head on the screw instead of turning the knurled knob.

On the scope mount screw...its metric. The US #6x40 threaded in fine but was undersized and measured .133" The original screw and the metric M4 both mic out at .155...so I picked up some M4x16 socket head cap screws. The heads are too big to fit inside the thumb knob, but I will turn those down.

Brazos

05-08-2012, 07:51

The Metric screws worked great. The M4x16 is the perfect thread match to the original screw. The heads on the screws I ended up with were too large, but I turned then down by putting them in a handheld drill and turning them down on a belt sander.

In the pic below is the factory original screw at the top, the M4x16 as I purchased it and the finished product after being turned down to fit inside the thumb screw. Tight as a tick and mount problem solved. Total cost was $.52 (for four screws), not counting the cup of coffee from Starbucks.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k202/BrazosCompany/1903A5007.jpg

Here is a pic of my two latest projects. Finished in front is my 1903A5. The Hi-Lux is mounted on it until I find a Winchester A5 or buy a 6X Malcolm scope. The rifle is a 1918 hi number RIA with a 1927 SA barrel. Came to me as a side mounted drilled and tapped sporter. The barrel looks to be original (to the SA rebuild) and the finish is well worn and has that old, lovely glow about it that I love about these rifles. It is corrected to 1918 RIA except for the barrel and a few small parts. The stock is a pre-war RIA that I got from Jim Dupage. I have the matching handguard, but used a replacement for the scope mount.

The back rifle is my 1903A1 USMC. 1.4 mill SA with a nearly new SA 4-18 barrel. I sourced this entire rifle one piece at a time. Cant wait to finish it...but going is slow with a 4 year old and an 8 month old running around the house...just the way I like it!

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k202/BrazosCompany/1903A5003.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k202/BrazosCompany/1903A5006.jpg

Jim S.

05-09-2012, 05:08

Two nice looking rifles. Thanks for the tip on the screws - so far I'm good but no worries if they do get buggered up.

Jim in Salt Lake

05-09-2012, 08:20

The screws I replaced were for the scope blocks. Thanks for the word on the ring mounting screws. I'm going to take on of those with a lock ring screw and get them all replaced. If I find out what the lock ring screws are I'll post it. If anyone beats me to it, please share. I think the real tip is don't over tighten them and that can be hard. My only concern once screws are replaced is stripping the threads in the lock rings or the mounts. The weakest link goes first and with good American steel screws, that will be the remaining Chinese threads. The lock rings get adjusted once so those shouldn't be a problem. The scope blocks are attached to the good American steel in the barrel and receiver ring. I'm just going to be careful with the scope mounts. And Brazos, nice job on the rifles and handguard mods!

wolley

05-15-2012, 07:27

GcS

05-31-2012, 06:39

Is the knurled thumbscrew "head" simply screwed and loctited onto the M4x16 screw? Just curious.

Jim in Salt Lake

05-31-2012, 09:15

No, the M4x16 screw is screwed into the ring mounts. The thumbscrew (they call it the "base locking screw") uses the M4x16 screw threads to tighten down against the scope block. The M4x16 screw should be turned into the ring mount so that when the thumbscrew is completely turned out against the M4x16 screw head, the scope will come off the blocks. When you tighen the thumbscrew, the m4x16 screw should not move. I think you can loctite the M4x16 screw into the ring mount but the thumbscrew should not be loctited onto the m4x16 screw unless you don't plan to remove the scope from your rifle. I've had some trouble getting that tumbscrew to stay tight. Have another 60 shot mid range practice match Saturday and if it loosens up again, I'm going to loctite everything and leave the scope on the rifle all the time. Does that make sense?

wolley

06-01-2012, 07:22

Talking to John Wu, there is a very small set screw in the scope base that is supposed to lock the M4X16 screw in place. You can't see it and you can't access it unless the scope mounts are removed from the scope. He agreed that was a piss poor design and the intent is to fix it soon. The set screw explains two things. The tiny allen wrench sent with the scope and the stripping of the threads when one removes the center screw. It would have been really nice if the manual had pointed this hidden feature out.

Jim S.

06-03-2012, 06:39

I finally got around to working with my 03A1 build. In the end I free floated the barrel which seems to be giving the best results for a number of our local builds. Here are two five shot groups at 100 yards. Now all I have to do is work on my technique and keep the fifth shot in there.

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n639/schinnerj/012-1.jpg

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n639/schinnerj/016-1.jpg

CPORet.

06-25-2012, 10:46

Creedmoor purchase here. Replaced all my hardware with high grade stainless steel, disassembled, cleaned, chamfered, polished all edges, seated all threads with fine paste valve grinding compound, relubed the tube mechanism with Aeroshell grease. Then ground away the casting flash on the mounts, evenly shaped them, bead blasted, replaced front mount spring with a quality one, re-machined and polished the seating area of the thumb knobs (may replace them in the future with blanks that I will finish machine) and ensured correct contact with the blocks and re-blued affected areas.
Overall a successful tidy up of a barely functional chicom attempt. I have more time than money, and access to a reasonably equipped garage and 40 years of aircraft component repair and manufacturing under my belt. It was not difficult, but you need either the natural inclination, curiosity and skills or find somebody that does.
Biggest improvement was the hardware and lapping the threads. Grainger has what you need. Grainger numbers 6EY98(M3x0.50), 6GB16(M4x0.70x20), 6GB42(M2.5x0.45x20), 6HA77(M2x0.40x4). (I have no connections with Grainger other than my work orders a lot from them so it was easy...)
The optics themselves are very nice. And the unit will work very well if you take the time.
Frankly, as a combat veteran, I'm kinda glad to see the chicoms still suck at building things, regardless of their economic improvements.

pelago

06-25-2012, 11:01

am i to read into this that the entire unit is a chi com manufactured item?? wont standard mounts like what i have on my 04's for unertl scopes be okay, because i have several sets of these? i have ordered complete rifle and am waiting

CPORet.

06-25-2012, 11:10

Box says "made in china" FWIW...
I assume that it is. I would suggest the glass is sourced from Japan as it "usually" is. The rest of my unit had obvious poor assembly indications, was dirty, assembled with dirty grease, threads were rough, lacked any sort of handwork finishing such as radius, chamfering, lots of handling dings on threads...
Its functional, and with a little care it is now much, much better.
Is it a Unertl?
No.
Its a 3/4 inch tube in the same basic pattern as Unertl, so I don't see any reason why it won't work fine with other mounts designed for 3/4 inch scopes. Mine work with my Unertls, but I admit to not having mounted it with them. I used the worked over original mounts. You will need to match your distances between mounts depending on the click value you require and the available space on your rifles, but they will still function.

pelago

06-25-2012, 11:27

i also know that a lot of reputation is riding on this piece of equip.
as i stated, i have ordered complete rifle, and will have to wait and see I also am fortunate to own several unertl scopes, none being 8 power, got two ten powers and even a target spot that unfortunately is also 10 power, sure like to get a focus piece for 8 power and swap out, then i would have the correct scope for the matches,

CPORet.

06-25-2012, 11:30

i also know that a lot of reputation is riding on this piece of equip.

I'm new around here so...

would that be user reputation or manufacturing reputation?

pelago

06-25-2012, 11:38

creedmore
under no circumstances do these folks want any of the issues that fell unto Gibbs and the guys that bought Gibbs. I know a man that won one three years ago and still is waiting to receive it (Gibbs)
I have experience with two Gibbs rifles, both were pieces of junk as far as optics were concerned, one had the "parkerization" coming off, one of the bolts looked like it was painted, both rifles had discoloration at the cut off, neither rifle would allow for scope adjustment could turn the thing all day long and nothing happened. one man won a gibbs rifle at perry and is still waiting. rifle to stock fit was atrocious, and was almost laughable..
why did all this happen, maybe rush to market before rifle really ready? I also remember the "sniper class" at the cmp games three years ago where the sniper class was really a advertising promo to buy Gibbs, two years ago i asked about the scope issue and was told that the rifles were never meant to shoot over 100 yards, and i asked "where in the advertising did it say that" got a dagger type stare for a answer
but i only have handled two of them.
I built my own 'clone' original rem receiver, rem barrel, original (never used still in cosmo) redfield jr base, (milled for the lyman alaskan bell) lyman alaskan scope from 1942, vintgage "C" stock, and had a great gunsmith do parkerization, first seven shots at 600 hit X (hornady a max 168 grain ammo)

CPORet.

06-25-2012, 11:58

Thanks

Dave in Pa

06-25-2012, 08:48

FWIW l just sent my 8x hi lux sniper copy back, curious to see how they handle it.New CMP stock,new barrel and hi lux scope.Rifle shot 5 to 6 inch groups,changed stock,relieved hand guard,tried all the tricks I know with same results.Finally tried an origional 8x Unertl I bought from a shooter friend,same load,similiar conditions groups shrunk to 1.5 inch at 100 yds. Shot a 500 yd. F class match with the unertl, scored a 181 5 x which l consider good since the target is not very forgiving.I hope they address the problem of the scope not holding zero and coming loose after a few shots.

pelago

06-26-2012, 04:09

this is not good, did you get this from creedmore?

Dave in Pa

06-27-2012, 12:06

Got it from another source,not critical of the scope or quality of the optics but suspect of the mounts/mounting system.Many people who buy this scope will log alot of rounds in practice, load development and actual competition. As it stands now I`m going to see what Hi Lux has to say.Received an email today saying scope was received and is being examined by their tech dept.While at the Eastern games another shooter stated he too was having a hard time getting a rifle known as a good shooter to group.The last thing I suspected was the scope since it was new.

pelago

06-27-2012, 01:02

gettin' rather nervous now
cuz i have a standing order for complete rifle from creedmore
I built one 03A4 and it is a winner, perfect in every way, but it is all original US made and all the pieces and parts are from the correct era, heck even the junior mount was in a box with fed stock number and was dated '42 and even had the portion of the mount milled down for the bell on the scope.
i have good shooting 03's and considered building one but always the scope was a issue and probably still is, if one can even be found

Jim in Salt Lake

06-28-2012, 10:56

Like Dave in PA, I also suspect the mounts/blocks/screws. My rifle came with a side mounted Weaver 330 and it will shoot MOA all day with it. With the Leatherwood, it will start off well but after 30-40 rounds the front mount loosens up. You notice it when you start with vertical flyers, up or down, about 3 MOA off zero. Tighten up the mount screw and it's back to MOA. I replaced the block screws with American steel and got new mount screws from Leatherwood, supposedly with harder steel. I'm thinking part of the problem was me as the first time I mounted the scope, I didn't get things lined up quite right and that's how I bent the mount screws (and they're soft steel, too!). These screws are also held in by a set screw you can't see until you remove the mounts from the scope. This is easy enough by removing the eyepiece and the cross hair ring. I tried to get some blocks from Steve Earle, he has some real pretty case hardened ones for the 1903 but the rear block holes don't match the Leatherwood block. If I was to do this again, I'd start with Steve's blocks. I have to leave town for a week, when I get back, I want to shoot a hundred rounds or so and really stress test the system.

Greg Ficklin

06-28-2012, 05:23

From talking to the designer of the new 8X Malcom at the Eastern Games, there is nothing on this scope that is interchangeable from the Unertl. This had to be done to avoid any legal ramifications. These scopes merely resembles the style, and function of a Unertl type scope. Everything from thread pitches, rail thickness, and mount design was purposely made to not match the Unertl.
So you cannot swap the eyepiece over to a 10X Unertl. People that are having problems with the scopes usually do not have the mounts perfectly centered on the blocks before tightening the screws. Another problem is mistakenly thinking that the thumb screw is the only screw that needs to be tight, as with the Unertl. These mounts are basically copied from the Lyman Super that have an inner slotted screw that contacts the block, and the outer thumb screw merely locks onto the the inner screw that really does the work of securing the scope. When I figured this out, my scope performed as it should.

Dave in Pa

06-28-2012, 06:25

Regarding my scope it was mounted properly.Everything was centered.My feeling is the the plunger spring in the rear mount and in the front is not applying sufficient pressure and is allowing point of impact to shift.

wolley

06-29-2012, 03:09

Check one more thing. On my scope when the eye relief was set where I wanted it it put the rear adjuster over a screw used to hold some internal part together. The windage adjuster was sitting on the edge of this screw hole and if it fell into it it was a 5moa shift left and 2moa up. That screw should have been located another 90 degrees down. I had to push the scope forward another 3/8" to get away from this screw hole. Eye relief is touch too far forward but I can live with it.
Greg, The original Hi-Lux design was to use this center screw only as threads for the thumb screw. In fact they put a set screw in the mount so that the center screw's depth could be adjusted to allow the thumb screw to move far enough clear the mount. I didn't know about the center screw until I talked to John Wu. That explains the buggered up center screws when they are removed. I replaced mine with m4.7-16 allen head screws after running a tap through the base to clean up what I though was bad threads. Now that the set screw is no longer in the picture I will use a 3mm allen wrench to provide additional torque to the thumb screw just as you are suggesting.

I agree that the mounts are a pile a stinking dog poo! It would be worth a few more bucks to provide some better mounts. I can see the shop that produces the mounts in my minds eye.
Smoky blacksmith looking shop in a corner of a barn with chickens and pigs running around. Parts laying in a bed of cow dung coals after beeing rough shapened with a hammer and file. Not a machine tool in sight. Holes drilled with a brace and bit. Color created by using a special blend of goat and chicken dung. Springs are made from rolling tie wire around a pencil and then thrown in the dung fire for heat treat.

Dave in Pa

06-29-2012, 02:24

Wolley,thanks for the input.Will check that when my scope is returned.Do not recall the screw hole position but what you are saying about the mount makes sense.My POI shift was about 5 moa.

DMark

07-04-2012, 07:40

I'm beginning to understand why when I called Midway USA about when they would have this scope for sale, the nice lady answered that Midway was going to "wait for this scope to mature a bit....," before stocking it.

Dave in Pa

07-11-2012, 10:35

Just an update,received a call from Hi Lux yesterday concerning my scope after sending them a email. Not sure if my letter made it to the tech dept with my scope since l explained everything all over to them. The person doing the repair was very nice and seemed eager to resolve the issue.Email today said they were replacing the mounts and returning,gave a tracking number to check delivery.Overall Hi Lux has been very responsive and easy to deal with.The repairman stated twice they stand behind their scopes and want the customer to be satisfied.Will give an update but will probably be after Perry.IMO any new product will have some growing pains but Hi Lux seems want to address them which is reassuring.