weaver scope adjustment question

[Embalmer]

I have a weaver 330c and a k-4 b60. Just trying to confirm their adjustments.

say aiming at dead center of target, and hits up and to right.


To adjust would be to turn down and to left, or would it be turn up and right? Trying to get this right so i don't fool with adjustments much on these old scopes

[George in NH]

Sir,
Arrows on the knobs show in which direction the strike of the bullet is moved. Reverse direction to move strike of the bullet opposite the arrow. So, you would go down and left to center the strike of the bullet. I am uncertain if your knobs are one minute or half minute but you will soon determine that on the range. HTH George in NH

[jgaynor]

WEaver 330c are 1/4 minute clicks.

Regards,
Jim

[Johnny P]

As George mentioned, if you are shooting the rifle and adjusting the scope,just follow the arrows.

If you are bore sighting the rifle, the adjustments are then backwards. When you align the rifle bore on the target and the cross hairs are high and to the left, the adjustments need to be made UP and to the LEFT.

[Embalmer]

That's what screwed me up... Time to get A4 back to range and see how she does. Thanks guys.

[pelago]

for windage do not forget that on the a4 there are actually two windages, mechanical zero for the mount itself and the cross hair
suggest go to range and take a white sheet of target paper and just draw a bold line vertical on it and put a paster in the middle, shoot at 25 yards and adj windage zero on mount, first you want to verify that you are in fact in the middle of the windage adj

this is quite simple, take adj and go all way to left count clicks, then go to right and count clicks
mechanical zero is in the middle, put it in the middle and then adj the windage on the mount to match the zero you est by counting the available clicks on scope

move to fifty yards and touch up, you will find that the mount on the A4 can get pretty minute in its adj, and you probably will find that when you move from25 to 50 yards a inch or so will be at fifty when it was not at 25.. tighten the screw on the mount, to move it,
my A4's are all now marked for mechanical zero on scope, with silver paint and a engraved dot on scope adj ring, can go to mechanical zero any time i want to, but i leave mine on zero for 200 yard dope

[jgaynor]

for windage do not forget that on the a4 there are actually two windages, mechanical zero for the mount itself and the cross hair
suggest go to range and take a white sheet of target paper and just draw a bold line vertical on it and put a paster in the middle, shoot at 25 yards and adj windage zero on mount, first you want to verify that you are in fact in the middle of the windage adj

this is quite simple, take adj and go all way to left count clicks, then go to right and count clicks
mechanical zero is in the middle, put it in the middle and then adj the windage on the mount to match the zero you est by counting the available clicks on scope

move to fifty yards and touch up, you will find that the mount on the A4 can get pretty minute in its adj, and you probably will find that when you move from25 to 50 yards a inch or so will be at fifty when it was not at 25.. tighten the screw on the mount, to move it,
my A4's are all now marked for mechanical zero on scope, with silver paint and a engraved dot on scope adj ring, can go to mechanical zero any time i want to, but i leave mine on zero for 200 yard dope

Pelago is correct. Coarse windage adjustment is provided in the base and fine adjustments are done with the scope.

Real A4's (i.e. originals or military rebuilds) will typically have the left-hand base windage screw staked in place. Since it has a large head but a fairly small threaded section use a little caution before trying to adjust. It's fairly easy to twist the head off. Also if the base has not been off the rifle the windageis probably OK.

I don't know if the manufacturers of the current crop of reproduction A4's are staking the left windage screw (or the base attaching screws). A quick look will tell the tale.

Regards,
Jim

[Johnny P]

The original M73B1 did not have a constantly centered reticule, so the reticule was set in the middle of the scope, and then the rough windage adjustment was made with the base screws. Once this was established the left windage screw was staked in place. If the scope was to be removed, the right windage screw was removed.

The shims under the front of the scope base were used to roughly sight in the elevation with the crosshairs centered.

[Embalmer]

thanks for the help guys, took her out and was getting 2" groups at 150 yards. put 2 shims under the mount.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff186/maninblue1861/463576_3846086761269_1551170463_3261485_1756373428 _o.jpg

only prob, now got to get the front lens of scope reset as it came loose *grr* Well the K4 remains on it from now on to shoot.