Dented scabbard repair

[Dick Hosmer]

Anyone have any non-destructive, non-invasive methods that have been proven to work?

I have a very early Krag scabbard (sharp-cornered hook x "keystone") which I'd like to improve a little bit. My thoughts, so far, have centered on some sort of multi-bladed sliding wedge apparatus.

A rod with a tee head in the form of a polished oval, which could be rotated at the dent, might also work, though I suspect the rod would twist first.

Thanks in advance.

[M1Garandy]

Check with your local auto body paintless dent removal shop. They have all kinds of specialized tooling for removing dents from inaccessible places. Maybe they could help?

[Johnny P]

I think it is one of those things that ends up worse than the dent. It ends up looking like a dented dent.

[Dollar Bill]

I think it is one of those things that ends up worse than the dent. It ends up looking like a dented dent.

That's the problem. The metal is now stretched and it's difficult to shrink it back to remove the dent. I would cut some sheet metal shims that will go in next to the blade. You need enough shim that it fits in the scabbard before the dent but won't go past it. Then, pushing on the bayonet with the shims, apply some dry ice to the scabbard dent. If the dent gets cold enough, the dent will pop out from the force of the bayonet/shims.

Now, if it pops out, leaving the bayonet/shims in place, tap around the dent with a small ball peen. It is possible to get it to flatten out, at least the majority of it.

[Dick Hosmer]

Thanks to all.

Hadn't thought about dry ice. Wonder if it would have any effect on the brazed seam? Problem is it is a very scarce and valuable scabbard, hence the need for great care.

[03Springfield]

Perhaps remove the metal 'throat/tension flat spring' and insert a shaped piece of hardwood?

[Dan Shapiro]

How about getting a piece of wood, the nominal shape of the bayonet and inserting it slowly, tapping as you meet resistance?

[JB White]

In the past I've used a shaped wood mandrel to open up a bent 98/05 scabbard so it would receive a blade. Worked well enough to take a blade but didn't remove the dent. Further cautious attempts at that began to show signs of distortion so I stopped. Remember, the opposite side of the dent will want to move too.

[Dan Shapiro]

Dick, have you considered something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Simoniz-MPAD-4-SIMONIZ-POPS-DENT/dp/B0015D88U0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1347163957&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=micro+dent+puller

Have used it on the wife and son's car, it works. You use the glue gun to glue the center post onto the dent, wait about 10 minutes for setup. Insert the handle then slowly start tightening the tension knob. Pulls minor dents out easily. Heavier ones might take 2 or 3 tries.

[John Sukey]

My objection to inserting a piece of wood is if the wood breaks, you now have a completelhy unusable scabbard.
About the same idea as using a wood dowel to punch out a stuck case in a BP rifle

[Guamsst]

I was once told by a guy who thought he was a physicist/engineer to fill the scabbard with water and put it in the freezer allowing expansion to pop the dent out............this does not work and is a terrible idea......do not do this.

How about thin slips of metal and hammer several wedges of metal in until it is popped out? pretty much what you were talking about, now that I look at the OP again.

[RLDARMSTR]

I really latched on to this thread.........thought sure someone of a clever persuasion would provide me with a solution to this problem. I have thought long and hard on it for several years, myself.

I would really like to see documentation on the process used to make these scabbards but I don't live near Springfield or Rock Island and have no contacts at either museum. I think if we could see the process and maybe some of the fixtures they used we might figure a way to do this reliably?

My approach, though I have never actually done it, would be to remove the throat and use a hardwood or similar hardness material in the shape of the inside of the scabbard to force the dent out. Before forcing the shaped dolly down the scabbard I would encase the scabbard in a material like plaster or cement to keep things from getting out of hand, like the brazed seam previously mentioned. Maybe a foundry that uses the lost wax casting method would have a material suitable to encase the exterior of the scabbard and keep it stable during the forcing?

Reattaching the throat and spring might also be a little troublesome but since the scabbard is not actually going to be used; modern bounding products could serve the purpose, depending on your ability to deviate from “original”.
Just out of curiosity, is this the first type Krag scabbard with no limiting pin in the pivot?

[dave]

Ever wonder why so many scabbards are dented? Many, probably most were dented cause the bayo became lose in the scabbard. Sort of a field fix. These dents are quite similar in size and shape, like the dull bayo blade was layed on it and hit with a hammer. I doubt any of these dents were due to 'bomping' them or 'dropping' them, just too much force needed.
I doubt any auto tools will work well. Dents in cars are usually in a large area (more 'spring' to the metal) and the metal is much lighter/thinner then a scabbard! Also, as mentioned, the metal is stretched and it will not un-stretch.

[Dick Hosmer]

Just out of curiosity, is this the first type Krag scabbard with no limiting pin in the pivot?

Yes, and with the "keystone" aperture as well - that is why I've sought expert advice. I'll suffer the dent before I risk really hurting it.

Something that may not have been clear, from the tone of some of the replies. This is a cosmetic thing, affecting display only, the blade goes (all the way) in, it's just really tight.

[John Sukey]

If you put a dent in your bayonet scabbard, the sergeant major would be unhappy, and you DO NOT want to make him unhappy

"I'll shove my pace stick up your nose, open it out , crawl inside, and kick your bloody brains out!"

[Fred]

Instead of using dry ice, you can use another item. Get an easily available can of that compressed air that is used to blow out computer keyboards with. If you turn the can upside down, then press the nozzle, the freon or whatever it is will blow out as a freezing cold spray. I mean it will freeze human skin allmost like liquid nitrogen to the point of frostbite if you do it long enough...like over two seconds. a series of quick squirts can be used immediately on burns to remove the heat and if not done too long, will not harm the skin. Anyway, it's damned cold and should do just fine. Oh, keep it away from a candle flame or a welding torch or whatever. The gas and melting frost is combustable. But, so is fix a flat. Oh, yea, this method is also good for freezing chewing gum to the point where you can cleanly break it out of hair or clothing.