after 38 yrs +/- need some help

[duke133]

I have decided to get back into reloading, but only for a few calibers and need some advice. It seems things have gotten a lot more expensive and a lot more complicated since I did this about 38 or so years ago after reading through the latest Natchez catalog. I found an old box that had some of my stuff still in it. What I found was an RCBS "RC" hand press, 3 RCBS shell holders #'s X1, 17 and 3 and only the 17 is marked 7.62. I found only 1 die set RCBS for 30 carb and an old Texan #257 powder and bullet scale.
I cannot find any of my old books.
In looking at the die set I can see a slight bit of surface rust on the steel so that's not good.

All I want to do is reload 30 carb, 357/38spl, 9mm and 45acp, nothing else. I have enough M2 ball to last through my son's life so I just save the brass for now.

Can anyone give me some advice on what I would need, considering what I listed (I know, antiques), to get back into this? I can't even remember what I used to do when I did reload before kids and then I had all the ammo I needed at work for the last 30+ years.

I do remember I had to use certain types of powder for handguns vs. rifle (I think), different primers (can't find the pocket cleaner) but that's about it in my memory files. I don't need an assembly line, just something to maybe keep the cost of plinking down some, not hunting ammo since I only hunt Turkey now.

Any help would be appreciated.

Forgot one thing, what book would be the best choice considering I do not need ballistics info and all the other stuff, just basic info.
Thanks.

[psteinmayer]

Lee dies will come with load data for the particular cartridge. Otherwise... I am partial to the Hornady loading manual.

I use Lee dies for all of my loading (.45 ACP, 10.4 Italian Ordnance, 30-06, 30-40 Krag, and 7.7X58 Japanese. I'll be loading .357/.38 spl soon too). I like them, and they seem to be the least expensive... otherwise, it's a matter of personal preference. Most pistol calibers use carbide dies, which will require no lube for sizing. Rifle dies usually need the lube so I use Hornady One Shot lube, which won't affect powder and doesn't require cleaning after sizing (just wipe em off).

Also, I can not stress enough to get a good quality powder scale!!! You don't want to have inconsistent loads, especially in pistol rounds where powder charges are relatively small. For powders, I usually try to use powders that will work in a couple different rounds (i.e. I use IMR 4064 for 30-06, 7.7 and 30-40... and I use HS-6 for .45 ACP and .38 spl). That way, I don't have to store a dozen different powders. I presently have 4 different powders that I use.

Another thing I'd invest in is a case trimmer set. I use the Lee trimmers, but any good trimmer will do.

If you are ever unsure of anything... Just ask!!! There are tons of people on this forum who will answer questions and help!

Incidentally, I don't hunt anymore. I just shoot paper these days. I shoot in various matches and do a lot of plinking!

Happy loading
Paul

[Tuna]

I agree with Paul on the Lee dies and a good scale. If your going to load for the carbine then you need to measure the case length each time you size them as the 30 carbines stretches a lot and as it head spaces on the case mouth so case length is critical. So you will need a case trimmer too. The bad thing right now is componants are very hard to find as so many have been panic buying all the primers, powers and bullets they can find thanks to Mr. O'bama, the best gun salesman in the country.

[m1ashooter]

I've used Lee dies for 45ACP for decades and they work great. I use an old Lee Turret press and O Press. Works great just abit slow. I also use Lee case trimmers. I also have a RCBS Uniflow measure for rifle loads and a Hornaday scale. For 45 ACP and 30 Carbine I use one of those Lee powder measures with the disk sets. Works great for what I do. I only use Accruate Arms Powders. I find they perform well, they are ball powders so they meter well and I normally can find it instock at my local shop which is a plus. Also it is a bit less expensive then other brands. Because I stick with AA powder I use one of their manuels which can aslo be found on line for free. I recommend you check Ebay as you can find some very good deals on equipment.

[joem]

All the above comments are good advice. +1 on Lee dies. I'm partial to Lyman reloading books. On pistol powders, I like Accurate Arms powder. Mostly I use AA #2 and for .30 carbine I use AA # 9. Other powders that perform well are; REX # 2, Win 231 and Trail Boss.

[duke133]

OK, so I guess my old hand press, the RC, and probably everything else is history and I start fresh? I would doubt dies, etc. from another mfg. would work on the RCBS.
I did notice the talk that even reloading supplies are in high demand and low in supply. I'll start looking at the reloading equipment out there and if any questions come up I'll ask first.
Thanks all for your comments.

[jimb]

The dies are all standard thread from all of the primary manufacturers and are interchangable. Your old press should be fine.

[psteinmayer]

The Lee case trimmers are great because there is no measuring involved. If used correctly, they will trim to the proper length every time (and require very little thought). In addition to trimming, get a Hornady case prep tool, which has small and large primer pocket cleaners and inside and outside case de-burring reamers. These are a must to remove burrs after trimming.

Since everyone is listing their powders... I though I would mention my loads too... I use the following:

30-40 Krag - IMR 4350 with 220 grain bullets for match loads in my rifle, and IMR 4064 with 165 grain bullets for my cutdown sporter.

30-06 - IMR 4064 with 150 grain FMJ bullets - these are for practice shooting (for matches, I only shoot military M2 Ball ammo).

7.7X58 Japanese - IMR 4064 with 174 grain FMJ bullets for my Type 99 Arisaka.

.45 ACP - HS-6 with 230 and 185 grain FMJ bullets.

10.4 MM Italian Ordnance - Bullseye with 210 grain bullets - This is a very rare caliber which has not been manufactured in more than 10 years. Brass must be made by reforming .44 special brass. I have around 100 rounds of original Fiocchi brass, more than 75 of which are Berdan primed... which I have converted to Boxer so I can reload.

[jjrothWA]

You have enouigh to get started BUTget new load manuals from local shop or use the: www.alliantpowder.com or www.hodgdon.com , for current and immediate data.

The "Texan" bushing is for shotshell reloading and either toss or find the press.

For those pistol round, look at the following: {I use them for both shotshell & pistol usage; Red Dot, Green Dot, also Power Pistol.
Dies advise of above is good, have augmented my steel RCBS dies with just the Lee Carbide sizer/decapper.
Good luck.

[da gimp]

Get RCBS, Dillon or Hornady dies (carbide or titanium),.... if your Lee dies ever screw up, ya hafta buy new dies........ with RCBS , Dillon & Hornady they repair & replace for FREE.............your falt, their fault or Santa Claus's fault, they are fixed/replaced for free.... & the RCBS dies come with a set screw locking rings... Lee doesn't....

[Hefights]

http://www.polygunbag.com/bullets.html

Polygunbags has .30 Carbine (and .38 Spec) bullets pretty cheap right now, shows as in stock. Too bad about .30 Carbine brass stretching in those military chambers, otherwise you might have gotten by without trimming. (My .38s do not stretch much if at all, and my .45 brass actually shrinks a little with reloading.) Components are hard to find right now. I have found .38 Spec 148 wad cutter bullets available, some 130 gr FMJ, and a few lead styles still available some places, if you look for a while. .45 ACP are a little harder to find, but I have found the expensive 185gr match bullets available, cost a lot but shoot real well.

http://www.gibrass.com/projectiles.html

http://www.patsreloading.com/patsrel/prices.aspx

http://www.grafs.com/

2 other sources of good stuff, Bartlett (GI Brass) and Pats Reloading, Bartlett stocked .30 Carbine for a while but is now out of stock. Graf is good for some stuff, like Midway, except Midway's web page has gone kablooey and while it still works, its user unfriendly in its current form (although Midway still may have some stuff others don't have).

Do not get anything but carbide dies, trust me you don't want to have to lube pistol cases. You need a Taper Crimp die for the .45 ACP, and the .30 Carbine too. Lee makes good ones among others. People will argue this all day long. If they try and tell you that you don't need em, whatever you do don't listen. .45 and .30 Carbine headspace off the case mouth. Get the taper crimp dies for the final step, use as directed and you'll be very well off and live in peace & tranquility with high quality ammo.

Consider a Lee Auto Prime for priming cases, a decent little cost effective hand priming tool, except for tight primer pockets, then you get carpal tool syndrome (it requires the special flat shell holders). If you need more leverage you can use the priming tool that comes with the reloading press you buy, a good quality pistol or smaller scale press should be fine for those 3 cartridges.

Above all, get a couple good reloading books, Lyman and something else. You'll need a decent caliper to measure case lengths after resizing to see if they are stretching and how much, and for cartridge overall length, sometimes quality checking dimensions, etc. I got a Dillon metal one for low cost years ago, still measures perfect today. Good luck.

[duke133]

All,
Thanks for the info. I think I'll print out everything to assist in making out my list and then start the search to not only find the best prices but to find components if there are any still out there. First, the equipment and the books. I'll keep you posted once I get the first part going.
All the best.

[duke133]

A couple additional questions. Do I need a case tumbler? I do not recall ever having or using one back when but then again, a lot of cells have died since then.
Also, what is the difference between a 3 die and 4 die set? Definitions are a little vague or I am not understanding them correctly. The RCBS 30 carb set I have is a 3 die set. Does a taper crimp die come as part of a set or do I have to get that in addition to the rest of the dies? I do not recall this being as complicated.
thx.

[joem]

The 4 die sets have a crimp die as a separate operation. In 3 die sets the 3rd die is a seat and crimp die. IMHO when starting out the 4 die sets are easier to adjust. Also check E-Bay for used reloading presses. You might find something. Years ago I bought several RCBS presses for under $100.00 each.

[Jim in Salt Lake]

I would recommend a case tumbler or some other way to clean cases. It's a lot faster than individually cleaning them. Sizing dirty cases can cause dents and other inconsistencies. Also, even with carbide .30 carbine dies, you'll still need to lube your cases.

[da gimp]

Webought an old Thumbler's Tumbler in the early 1980's & it is still going strong....but the new vibrating style is much quicker..........

On the "supposed need" for taper crimp dies,,,,,,,....... we haven't had to get/use a taper crimp die yet in 40 years of reloading, nor do we plan too..............ain't NEVER needed one to reload.45ACP, .40 S&W, 9mmp, .30 carb. .223 Rem. .308 Win etc on our Rockchucker or our Dillon550B........pay no attention to those who say it is a must.......

On revolver cartridges.... .38spec-.357, .41mag, .44spec/.44 mag, .45Long Colt we use a heavy crimp & as joem says, it is easier to do it on seperate stations..............

[duke133]

I decided to try out the old press so I got out the 30 carb set and de-primed all the cases and then experimented with the resizing but without cleaning just to see what the cases (only a couple) looked like afterwards. The dies still work well to my surprise after all these years. Now to track down the equipment and I will check E-pay. Guess I'll track down a tumbler but should it be a wet or dry one?????
Thx all.

[psteinmayer]

I used to use an old rock tumbler. Last year, I picked up a Cabelas branded vibratory tumbler and it was night and day better! I use the corn-cob media and the polish that came with the tumbler kit. The kit, which included the tumbler, media, polish and sifting pan cost under $60 dollars!

Ultimately... what ever press, dies, powders, etc. you wind up with... when you find what is working for you - Stick with it! Reloading is a very personal thing, and methods and loads vary greatly from person to person.

Best of luck!
Paul

[jimb]

I'd go with a dry vibrating cleaner. That gives you the choise of going for a high polish with crushed walnut shells or a simple cleaning with ground corn cob. And since I make my own shot for my shotguns, I can also use it for polishing and graphiting my shot.

[Hefights]

From the folks at Sierra - "Taper crimping is the best choice for any firearm which headspaces on the case mouth. Cartridges intended for use in self-loading pistols, such as the .45 ACP, should never be given any type of crimp other than a taper crimp. Because of the method of headspacing on the case mouth, a slight ledge must be left to provide positive positioning of a chambered round."

I've tried it both ways, including trying to make a std factory "roll crimp" die work on .45 ACP, and taper crimp dies, and I find using taper crimp die is superior. For Lee 3 die sets, Lee states "The Bullet Seating Die is an adjustable crimp from slight taper to full roll." As such you apparently can (and should) taper crimp with them for cases that headspace on the mouth. Their Taper Crimp die states "These dies offer little or no advantage when used wth 1986 or newer Lee Dies as the crimp angle is already modified taper crimp".

As stated above, its your choice.

[da gimp]

ain't never needed the taper crimp yet, in all those years & when I was on the door kick squad, we shot 300 rds a week thru our sidearms alone..........on the tumblers........ Maury said to try the new stainless steel pin media instead of corncob or walnut hulls, with water, a lil Dawn detergent & said that all his brass comes out super clean , including primer pockets in 1 hour or so, MidwayUSA's site supports this in the old style Thumblers tumbler......... the media is re-washable & lasts forever with no damage to the brass.