Worst trigger ever!!

[pdc]

So, I've got the longest, creepiest, spongiest two stage trigger of all time in my 03 Mark I. Who does a decent trigger job on these? Can I make mods myself? Also, the safety won't engage when the rifle is cocked unless I pull back on the cocking piece a hair. It looks like the notches just don't line up. Note, this rifle was sporterized years ago so I'm not messing up a collectors item. I tried a Timney trigger but I would have had to modify the action to get it to fit. Not going to do that. Thanks for any help you can give guys.

[holdover]

without having the rifle in my hands this is what I would suggest; take it apart and look for obvious signs of being worked on replace the parts that look like they have been messed with, if everything looks OK first get a new cocking piece ( AKA firing pin rod), someone might have messed with the one you have by shorting it up a bit, I say this because the safety does not engage correctly. If that does not change things put a new sear in, again sounds like bubba might have worked on it, the last change would be the trigger.. here is what I found at nurmrich arms, sear 9.50, trigger 11.85, firing pin rod 6.75, sear spring 2.35, and if you are willing mainspring 9.50 link http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/USMilitary-33541/Rifles-42386/SpringfieldModels-40111/Springfield1903A3-42095/PartsList-42071.htm?page=2 The military trigger will never be as crisp as a custom one, but should be alot better than yours is now. Another thought is if you have another 03, swap out the whole firing pin assembly with the one in your bolt and see if that changes anything..

[Parashooter]

First step is to smooth all the contact surfaces, including the trigger humps and the portion of the receiver where they touch, being sure not to alter original angles or round off edges on sear and cocking piece. After thorough cleaning and lubrication, this should result in a pull that is smoother and lighter, though no shorter.

Replacing, shortening, or shimming the sear spring can increase or decrease the overall weight of pull - or muck it up so badly the trigger and sear will not return when released.

If you really want less overall travel, reduce the height of the sear by stoning a bit off the top, again being careful to preserve the edge and angle. Generally, this is not a great idea, since the full height of the sear (and consequent long pull) ensures adequate engagement to prevent discharge unless the trigger is intentionally pulled. (However, page 194 of Brophy's book quotes a manufacturing order for the 1922 NM rifles that includes "Sear: nose .0075" shorter".)

Instead, it's preferable to alter the trigger humps to adjust the point at which the second stage begins. Done right, all this work results in a long, smooth first stage followed by a distinct, short, crisp second stage.

http://i55.tinypic.com/8x3p5e.jpg

None of this will correct misalignment between the twin lugs on the safety and the corresponding grooves in the cocking piece. If the misalignment is slight, a bit of careful work with a thin rotary stone in a Dremel or similar tool can widen the grooves rearward and/or increase the length of their angled leading cut to enable normal safety engagement. However, if there's more than about .020" of misalignment, results can be unsightly at best and ineffective at worst. Then it's time to start replacing parts - safety, bolt sleeve, cocking piece, sear, and bolt may all be contributing to the misalignment and it can be difficult to determine which ones are at fault since it's usually one of those "cumulative tolerances" deals.

If you're not experienced at trigger work, it's prudent to have at least a spare trigger, sear, spring, and firing pin (the rod with cocking piece attached) on hand before starting to learn.

[Fred]

What a Great diagram! That really simplifies it! Now I can get rid of that hardly noticeble to non existent/ Hair Trigger second stage on my two 1918 dated 03's if I decide that I don't like them whenever I finaly shoot them. I can just slightly reduce the Front Humps. Thanks!

[Jeff L]

As I recall the the Mark 1 has a slightly different sear and /or trigger. Might be part of the issue.

[Bill D]

If it still has the original Mark I sear and trigger, it will have a terrible trigger pull. These parts have probably been replaced long ago but are worth a premium to a Mark I restorer.

[pdc]

The trigger and safety were missing when I purchased the action. I bought GI replacement parts and installed them. I'll take a closer look but I'm thinking the cocking piece may have been bubba'd. Thanks for all the advice guys....