Accurate 2520 for M1 Garand loads

[psteinmayer]

I just picked up a pound of Accurate 2520 to reload my practice rounds for my M1 Garand (30-06) at the "Venders-Row" at Camp Perry during the National Matches this weekend. I was actually looking for IMR4895 or IMR4064 (my preferred powder), but no one has any, and on the advice of another shooter, I purchased the 2520 instead.

My question is this: Does anyone have experience using 2520 in 30-06 for the M1? I'll be loading with Hornady 150 gr FMJ bullets. I know that Hornady lists this powder in their loading data... but I just want to make sure that I'm consistent with my loads, because I usually shoot M2 Ball ammo in competitions. Being that powders are a rare find these days, I don't want to waste the 2520, but if it's not the best choice for 30-06, then I'll save it for something else!

I welcome any advice, thanks!
Paul

[Hefights]

Yes its one that is listed in some recommended milspec / match loads, about 51 gr for 150 gr bullets, 47.5 for 168s - but that needs to be verified by manual data & following proper procedures, its hotter than AA load data linked below. Lyman 48th has 48 gr as max for 168 MK.

Its a ball powder, can be temperature sensitive, some manuals recommend using magnum primers in .30-06. You may find it works great. Its a very good quality powder and meters real well. Here's some Accurate Arms pdf load data, page 42.

http://www.accuratepowder.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/WP_LoadSpec_7-2-13.pdf

[psteinmayer]

Awesome, thanks. I already use CCI Magnum primers for my 30-40 Krag loads, so I have a ton of them... not a problem. Also, thanks very much for the link to the loading data... That's just what I needed!

[kcw]

I've used it for about 20 years now. Commonly bought it by the 8lb. jug. Depending on the lot# I usually load 51.5gr-51.7gr. with the 150 gr. M-2 bullet. Lg rifle primer, brand doesn't seem to matter too much.

[m1ashooter]

I've used it for about 20 years now. Commonly bought it by the 8lb. jug. Depending on the lot# I usually load 51.5gr-51.7gr. with the 150 gr. M-2 bullet. Lg rifle primer, brand doesn't seem to matter too much.

I too have used 2520 for many years. It is my powder of choice because it works great in my M1 and M1A. No need for mag primers, lg primers work.

[John Kepler]

My question is this: Does anyone have experience using 2520 in 30-06 for the M1?

I welcome any advice, thanks!
Paul

Yes, I have experience with 2520 in .30 cals.......ALL OF IT BAD! It meters well.......and that is the end of anything positive I can say about it. In every other aspect, it defines "erratic"! Temperature sensitive, horrendous lot inconsistencies, and simply random velocity variations. It's garbage that simply will not make a precision load

FWIW, you should have gotten other advise and bought Vihtavuori N140.....I KNOW Champions Choice had it last week. You ever shoot N140......you'll never touch 4895 or 4054 again!

[Hefights]

If it doesnt work in .30-06, you can get another powder and save it for .223.

I use AA 2520 in .223 for 69 gr AR 15 loads, and it is an excellent performer there, again and again. I have the consistently excellent groups to prove it. And that includes 95 degree & higher heat index humid weather out on the prairie where there ain't no shade to hide in.

[Maury Krupp]

My experience pretty much mirrors John's.

Pretty big lot to lot variations, especially when I bought bulk from the local reloading shop. I don't have the patience to deal with that anymore.

Temperature sensitive in heat (95+) and cold (40-). Shots would go way high and primers would blow; shots would drop out the bottom or be hard to light even with a magnum primer. But it's a Ball powder so what else is new?

For short-range progressively loaded practice blammo or when you don't need 10 or X-ring precision in temperate climes, it's probably no worse than any other Ball powder.

But for Mid-Range, Long Range, or when points count it's not the powder I'd pick.

Maury

[Hefights]

Wow, must be different for .223. I shoot a Bushy DCM and a Rock River 24" heavy bbl & have had 62 gr and 69 gr ammo loaded with different lots of 2520 shot in 30 F through 95 F under very adverse (terrible wind, terrible humidity) conditions out on the plains. No significantl change in POI or group size on 200 & 300 yd targets (other than some wind drift). In fact its so reliable its getting almost boring. I use Wolf SR mag primers.

[Maury Krupp]

Well, 200 & 300yd are "short range" that's why the "SR" (Short Range) target is used ;)

For that AA2520 is probably just as good (or as bad) as any other Ball powder. Meters great making progressive reloading practical and frankly, just holding the SR 10-ring doesn't ask much of any load.

But leave any of them in your stool all day during an AZ summer XTC match and by the time you get to 600yd expect to have problems. For Long Range (800-1000yd) you can simply forget about it :(

The lot to lot variations I saw may have been due to buying in bulk. Could be AA has better consistency in off-the-shelf cannister stuff.

Better than no powder at all I guess.

Maury

[Hefights]

For long range its a 77 or 80 and RL15 or Varget

[John Kepler]

What's "long range"? Where Maury and I hang out, "Long Range" is 1000 yds, and you ain't hitting squat with a 77 or 80! 600 yds is "Mid-Range", which is why it's an "MR" Target!

[Hefights]

If you have never shot at 1000 yards, 600 yards is long range regardless of what it says on the target.

[John Kepler]

And if you have as much as I have......you'll NEVER confuse, let alone attempt to equate "Mid-Range" range with "Long Range"! 600 yds is "Mid-Range", just like it says on the target and in the HP Rule Book!


"Knock her down!".......the three happiest words in Long Range shooting!

[Maury Krupp]

Well, even a rulebook pedant like me will acknowledge that there's "long range" and there's "Long Range" :icon_study:

It's always slightly amusing to hear folks refer to the 200yd bay at the local range as "long range" but you have to take it all in context.

Still, there's nothing magic or mysterious about shooting true "Long Range." Slow Prone is Slow Prone; if the shooter can do it at 100 he can do it at 1000. It usually takes a different load and a little different rifle and it's real easy to get blown off the whole 6x6 by a gust or switch but the front sight, holding, and squeezing are all still the same :63:

Try it sometime :D

Maury

[PhillipM]

Yes, I have experience with 2520 in .30 cals.......ALL OF IT BAD! It meters well.......and that is the end of anything positive I can say about it. In every other aspect, it defines "erratic"! Temperature sensitive, horrendous lot inconsistencies, and simply random velocity variations. It's garbage that simply will not make a precision load

FWIW, you should have gotten other advise and bought Vihtavuori N140.....I KNOW Champions Choice had it last week. You ever shoot N140......you'll never touch 4895 or 4054 again!

John, where are components on their site? Also what about N135?

[Hefights]

Well, even a rulebook pedant like me will acknowledge that there's "long range" and there's "Long Range" :icon_study:

It's always slightly amusing to hear folks refer to the 200yd bay at the local range as "long range" but you have to take it all in context.

Still, there's nothing magic or mysterious about shooting true "Long Range." Slow Prone is Slow Prone; if the shooter can do it at 100 he can do it at 1000. It usually takes a different load and a little different rifle and it's real easy to get blown off the whole 6x6 by a gust or switch but the front sight, holding, and squeezing are all still the same :63:

Try it sometime :D

Maury

Words of encouragement are extremely welcome :)

[John Kepler]

Words of encouragement are extremely welcome :)

Then let me second them encouraging words......but I gotta tell ya.....Maury's leaving a few things out, but then I'm sure you'll figure that out! Reading wind accurately at 1000 yds will make shooting 600 in any conditions far easier....not to mention being one of those "life experiences" that is hard to forget.

[psteinmayer]

I would love to shoot at 600 or 1000 yards. I would love to see how well I could shoot my 1898 Krag at 1000. As for the Garand, I would still shoot M2 Ball ammo... good enough for the military at 1000 yards is good enough for me!

Unfortunately, my long-range options are limited here in the greater Detroit area. I think there's a range with a 300 yard distance, but it's private. There are a few 200 yard ranges (also private) that I could go to with an invitation.

[John Kepler]

BS! I live near Toledo and have plenty of places to shoot...and so do you! For 600, you have Washtenaw right in your back yard (off of Ellis Rd. in Ypsi Township) and Camp Custer. MRPA runs a regular 1000 yd match series at Grayling, not to mention ORPA at Camp Perry! Oh, no matter what you think.....you might shoot AT something at 1000 yds with M2....but do NOT expect to hit much! M2 drops subsonic at about 800 yds, which makes that the end of the line for predictable performance

[PhillipM]

I would love to shoot at 600 or 1000 yards. I would love to see how well I could shoot my 1898 Krag at 1000. As for the Garand, I would still shoot M2 Ball ammo... good enough for the military at 1000 yards is good enough for me!

Unfortunately, my long-range options are limited here in the greater Detroit area. I think there's a range with a 300 yard distance, but it's private. There are a few 200 yard ranges (also private) that I could go to with an invitation.

M2 Ball is not recommended at 600, much less 1000 on a national match course.

[psteinmayer]

Well, Washtenaw is 200 yards. I've shot there in a Cast Bullet match. DSC is also 200. Grayling is just too far. Camp Perry is within reach, but I didn't know civilians could shoot there when it's not a match. If you're in Toledo, I would be honored to shoot with you... I live in Ypsilanti (about 5 minutes from Washtenaw, actually)! I could shoot my Krag at long distances... my loads are the standard US 30 caliber round (220 gr over 40.0 grains of 4350)... which should reach 1000 yards with no problems.

[John Kepler]

Bud......Washtenaw ABSOLUTELY has a full National Match Range.....I've shot it! If you want to shoot 600, send me a PM......my local club in dinky little Gibsonburg, OH has a full 2-3-6 range.

[madsenshooter]

What's visible from the bench positions isn't all of it Paul. Walk to the end of the shelter and take a look to your right. All that field is range! That's why I was encouraging you and your brother in law to get involved there, for practice.

With 2520 being a ball powder, many of which I have found to be hard to ignite, I'd use a CCI mil-spec primer or a magnum primer to light it. Maybe then you wouldn't have the bad experiences others have related with the powder. They may have tried that too, I don't know, but I do know the magnum primer is often needed when you get into the slower ball powders like H414/760 or Accurate's 2700. Start your load development using a magnum primer, and don't dwell on the bad others have reported. It'll work better for you. According to CCI's website, the initiator mix in their #34 primers is optimized for ball/spherical powders. Haven't tried them vs magnum primers, so I'm just repeating their advertising. It does say use the same data as CCI magnum primers.