Bolt won't open/cock

[ChrisATX]

Bolt handle will not lift with the rifle decocked/fired position. If I pull the cocking piece and manually cock, the bolt will open and run as normal. Thoughts??

[Parashooter]

Examine sleeve lock mechanism, cocking cam (notch at rear of bolt) and cocking piece. Deburr and lube as needed.

[ChrisATX]

Thank you sir!

[ChrisATX]

Thanks Parashooter. Where the cocking piece of the rod first contacts the cocking cam, and where it's binding, There is a very hard edge/corner on the cocking piece. The same spot on my old firing pin rod cocking piece has a rounded, broken edge.

Since I didn't change the bolt shroud or sleeve lock, only the rod, this makes sense as well. Bolt cocked perfectly with the old rod.

[Fred]

I had that problem with a bolt dragging when the handle was lifted. The firing pin rod nose or tip was damaged and so I took a honing stone and oil and smoothed it out. It worked beautifully after that. Glad I didn't toss it out.

[chuckindenver]

replace the spring...many have used a 1917 spring by mistake..

[ChrisATX]

Thanks Chuck.

I'm curious, what processes are usually done to make a very smooth-running bolt? Polishing the cam and rod cocking piece?

What is the preferred lube for this area? Something other than a typical quality gun oil?

[Fred]

I'm not Chuck, and I don't know anything close to what he does, but to answer your question, Yes, National Match rifles and any other rifle the owner/shooter wanted to operate slick and smooth had their bolts polished, rails polished, top of follower polished etc. Anywhere there was metal on metal drag or contact, this was done. Even the safeties and magazine cutoffs seem to me to have smoother travel.

[Fred]

I've even removed and carefully polished the inside contact surfaces of the extractor ring along with the channel bottom and sides on the bolt.

[Parashooter]

Don't remove the extractor collar unless you're going to replace it*. If you want to smooth its rotation, pack a bit of fine valve-grinding paste in there. wire it tight, rotate a few hundred times, flush out the compound, stuff in some moly grease, and you're done.

Same principle has been SOP since before WWI for general bolt smoothing. Apply fine grinding paste to all contact surfaces except rear of locking lugs, tie back trigger, operate bolt enough to smooth things out, thoroughly wash off bolt assembly and receiver, lube with moly or graphite grease on contact areas (especially cocking piece, including sear face).

(FWIW, I tried installing the GI mainspring from my 1917 in an '03. Not an easy task - and the spring was totally compressed before I could retract the cocking piece far enough to apply half-safe for reassembly. Maybe some 1917 springs are shorter/lighter, but mine was a no-go.)

*Should you ever have to replace or reinstall the extractor collar, there's a specific method described here in an old book about the armory -

http://i62.tinypic.com/u69p2.jpg

If done without heating, the collar will usually remain sprung out enough to make extractor installation a pain.

[chuckindenver]

iv had many 1903s with a 1917 spring installed., yes its a bear to remove...but it happens..usually a heavy handled bolt is a heavy spring.
sometimes the cocking cams are rough, but usually they just make it rough to lift, the cocking rod dragging on the sear or someting may be it,..hard to say without having the rifle in my hands.