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View Full Version : Has anyone here added a radius to their sear face?



ChrisATX
05-10-2014, 07:20
In the 1911 world, adding a radius that matches the rotation of the sear has become an awesome way to get a completely neutral sear release of the hammer hooks. I use a radius sear in my 1911 and the results are awesome. The sear face and cocking piece of a 1903 are the same physical principle, as a result, the flat-faced interaction between the two makes the shooter have to push the cocking piece back against the force of the spring before the release during the trigger stroke. Has anyone tried to make a jig to add a proper radius to a 1903 sear face?

See:

https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/hd-805-true-radius-stoning-jig
https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/hd-806-true-radius-pro-sear-stoning-jig

Parashooter
05-10-2014, 09:16
I believe the existing geometry ensures sear and trigger will return properly when released without firing. (Mainspring pressure assists the relatively weak sear spring.) If you try the radius, you may find you need a much stronger sear spring for positive return, negating any benefit.

The 1911 mechanism is a very different animal, essentially a single-stage with some incidental trigger take-up before the sear moves. Once the sear moves, the hammer falls. In the '03, the sear is moving during both stages and has to move back up if released before firing.

ChrisATX
05-10-2014, 09:30
Good point Para. The 1911 "first stage" pretravel is just moving the disco pad until it contacts the sear legs. I have heard/read anecdotes about this being done to rifles, which is why I posted asking about it.

Allen Humphrey
05-10-2014, 09:30
My limited experiments confirm Parashooter's comments, but I did find some benefit. While a radius as you describe would be perfect, it would require some careful setup to do accurately. Changing the angle can approximate the same results. I've only done it twice on rifles where the trigger pull pushed the cocking piece back significantly. I went too far on the first one and while the trigger broke really well, it didn't reset well. I found that if I set the angle such that it still pushed the cocking piece back a TINY bit it was still a very good improvement and still reset perfectly. I suspect a trigger done this way would be bad in a dirty combat environment where grime and grit would cause the reset issue to return. Seems great for punching paper.