BobSm
10-20-2014, 04:23
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880552.jpg
As one of the coaches supporting a large junior precision small-bore program, I’ve been buying up old Anschutz rifles as fast as I can acquire good deals, rehab and update the rifle, and as a volunteer, provide them to either families or the club at cost. This 1407 Standard Rifle from 1965 was originally imported as a club rifle in California and came without sights, but for 500 bucks I grabbed it, as our greatest need is rifles with lighter barrels suitable to transition the more experienced youngsters out of our well-worn Achievers and 513’s into a rifle that fits better and they can’t outshoot. This old Annie is in good condition with some minor surface rust from sweaty hands in a hot climate, but still has an excellent bore and crown.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409833651.jpg
The first thing I do with these oldies is check the balance, as while moderate to severe muzzle-heaviness was preferred in times past, today’s target rifles generally balance exactly at the front of the receiver ring. As this one balances almost two inches forward of that, I’ll make some necessary adjustments as I go before doing the final balance by adding lead to the butt, something I like to minimize so as to keep the rifle under 9 pounds for 12 to 14-year-olds.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880553.jpg
My first task is to pillar-bed the action, as while this is an excellent, tight-ringed piece of European Walnut, a half-century of seasonal movement always calls for a rebed, even in rifles that were glass-bedded when new. Low-velocity small-bores with round actions are extremely sensitive to their bedding, and even the thickest epoxy bedding job only slows down seasonal wood movement and ultimate shrinkage as the wood’s lignin deteriorates with age, it doesn’t eliminate it. I’ll add modern pillars and new, hex-head actions screws as well, to facilitate proper torquing. I do pillar bedding in two stages, the first a simple glass-bedding using custom bedding studs made for the purpose in lieu of the action screws, and in the second stage install the pillars. Bedding studs are important, as they are sufficiently long to sight “centered-and-plumbâ€, and eliminate the possibility of getting epoxy into the action screw holes. I also use a combination of modeling clay or plumber’s putty, electrical tape and common paste wax as release agents. As both action screws are in the front (a vastly superior design to the alternatives), the 54-Series target rifle actions are free-floated at their rear ends, and while I’ll epoxy the entire bedding area, I have applied electrical tape on the portion of the action I want to float so as to leave a gap when the tape is removed.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880554.jpg
Because we have unusual and highly-variable weather compared to most of the country, I prefer to make my own bedding compound from a low-shrink 5:1 epoxy thickened to the correct consistency using high-adhesive cabosil with powdered stainless steel mixed in. I can control its’ consistency and how fast it kicks off regardless of temperature and humidity. It’s also considerably less expensive than Steelbed or Devcon, and I never have to fudge with not having enough of it in the middle of a job.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880556.jpg
After the first stage cures for 12 hours, I drill for the pillars. To insure the action-screw holes remain factory-centered, I carefully ream them out in graduated steps on the drill press until I can use my Brownell’s piloted pillar bedding bit. To their shame, Brownell’s makes a great bit but won’t consider offering interchangeable pilots for folks who work on rifles other than Remington 700’s. I also prefer the purpose-built Brownell’s 3/8†bedding pillars to brass plumbing nipples and other contrivances where I have room to use them. They save shop hours.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880559.jpg
I’m careful to measure and fit the pillars, and on adjustable pillars lock the collars in place with a couple drops of cyanoacrylate glue so they don’t move during installation. Non-adjustable pillars are marked, cut, and finished in the drill press with a file to insure all surfaces remain square and plumb.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880561.jpg
I install the pillars from the top to insure their saddles are perfectly aligned fore-and-aft, and set them slightly beneath the surface for a skim coat of epoxy to be applied on top.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880569.jpg
During both stages of the bedding process, I’m careful to keep the bedding studs dead plumb and centered in their holes.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880581.jpg
With the bedding done, I turn to the tasks remaining for the rest of the stock. I cut Buick Slots (barrel ventilation) in the jig I built for the purpose, not because the slots accomplish much, but because it’s important for youngsters whose families can’t afford the latest $4000 Annie, that the rifle they can afford look like one. I’ll also install an adjustable comb, and as this stock has been hollowed to save weight, I mill a piece of stable hardwood to epoxy in. I choose vertical-grain Honduras Mahogany, as with a hollow this large, a tight patch has the potential to eventually split the stock if it moves seasonally to a greater degree than the largely vertical-grain walnut of the stock.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880584.jpg
To adjust the rifle’s balance, I remove wood from the forearm, being careful not to make it too fragile with excessive short grain. Then I lay out the adjustable comb assembly, keeping the bottom of the comb cut parallel with the top of the barrel channel, and mount the stock square and level in a sacrificial cradle made from foam board, using spray adhesive. The wedges used to support the stock are cut from the same hard foam and are glued in place. You can also use heavy cardboard. Both make a stable platform that prevents mishaps and errors. The comb hardware I’m using is made by Doug Keener of Madison, Ohio, who sells these on eBay for around 60 bucks. It’s top quality, with close tolerances solid as a rock and by far the best value in rifle comb hardware I’ve found yet.
Continued...
As one of the coaches supporting a large junior precision small-bore program, I’ve been buying up old Anschutz rifles as fast as I can acquire good deals, rehab and update the rifle, and as a volunteer, provide them to either families or the club at cost. This 1407 Standard Rifle from 1965 was originally imported as a club rifle in California and came without sights, but for 500 bucks I grabbed it, as our greatest need is rifles with lighter barrels suitable to transition the more experienced youngsters out of our well-worn Achievers and 513’s into a rifle that fits better and they can’t outshoot. This old Annie is in good condition with some minor surface rust from sweaty hands in a hot climate, but still has an excellent bore and crown.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409833651.jpg
The first thing I do with these oldies is check the balance, as while moderate to severe muzzle-heaviness was preferred in times past, today’s target rifles generally balance exactly at the front of the receiver ring. As this one balances almost two inches forward of that, I’ll make some necessary adjustments as I go before doing the final balance by adding lead to the butt, something I like to minimize so as to keep the rifle under 9 pounds for 12 to 14-year-olds.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880553.jpg
My first task is to pillar-bed the action, as while this is an excellent, tight-ringed piece of European Walnut, a half-century of seasonal movement always calls for a rebed, even in rifles that were glass-bedded when new. Low-velocity small-bores with round actions are extremely sensitive to their bedding, and even the thickest epoxy bedding job only slows down seasonal wood movement and ultimate shrinkage as the wood’s lignin deteriorates with age, it doesn’t eliminate it. I’ll add modern pillars and new, hex-head actions screws as well, to facilitate proper torquing. I do pillar bedding in two stages, the first a simple glass-bedding using custom bedding studs made for the purpose in lieu of the action screws, and in the second stage install the pillars. Bedding studs are important, as they are sufficiently long to sight “centered-and-plumbâ€, and eliminate the possibility of getting epoxy into the action screw holes. I also use a combination of modeling clay or plumber’s putty, electrical tape and common paste wax as release agents. As both action screws are in the front (a vastly superior design to the alternatives), the 54-Series target rifle actions are free-floated at their rear ends, and while I’ll epoxy the entire bedding area, I have applied electrical tape on the portion of the action I want to float so as to leave a gap when the tape is removed.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880554.jpg
Because we have unusual and highly-variable weather compared to most of the country, I prefer to make my own bedding compound from a low-shrink 5:1 epoxy thickened to the correct consistency using high-adhesive cabosil with powdered stainless steel mixed in. I can control its’ consistency and how fast it kicks off regardless of temperature and humidity. It’s also considerably less expensive than Steelbed or Devcon, and I never have to fudge with not having enough of it in the middle of a job.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880556.jpg
After the first stage cures for 12 hours, I drill for the pillars. To insure the action-screw holes remain factory-centered, I carefully ream them out in graduated steps on the drill press until I can use my Brownell’s piloted pillar bedding bit. To their shame, Brownell’s makes a great bit but won’t consider offering interchangeable pilots for folks who work on rifles other than Remington 700’s. I also prefer the purpose-built Brownell’s 3/8†bedding pillars to brass plumbing nipples and other contrivances where I have room to use them. They save shop hours.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880559.jpg
I’m careful to measure and fit the pillars, and on adjustable pillars lock the collars in place with a couple drops of cyanoacrylate glue so they don’t move during installation. Non-adjustable pillars are marked, cut, and finished in the drill press with a file to insure all surfaces remain square and plumb.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880561.jpg
I install the pillars from the top to insure their saddles are perfectly aligned fore-and-aft, and set them slightly beneath the surface for a skim coat of epoxy to be applied on top.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880569.jpg
During both stages of the bedding process, I’m careful to keep the bedding studs dead plumb and centered in their holes.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880581.jpg
With the bedding done, I turn to the tasks remaining for the rest of the stock. I cut Buick Slots (barrel ventilation) in the jig I built for the purpose, not because the slots accomplish much, but because it’s important for youngsters whose families can’t afford the latest $4000 Annie, that the rifle they can afford look like one. I’ll also install an adjustable comb, and as this stock has been hollowed to save weight, I mill a piece of stable hardwood to epoxy in. I choose vertical-grain Honduras Mahogany, as with a hollow this large, a tight patch has the potential to eventually split the stock if it moves seasonally to a greater degree than the largely vertical-grain walnut of the stock.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/24574979/409880584.jpg
To adjust the rifle’s balance, I remove wood from the forearm, being careful not to make it too fragile with excessive short grain. Then I lay out the adjustable comb assembly, keeping the bottom of the comb cut parallel with the top of the barrel channel, and mount the stock square and level in a sacrificial cradle made from foam board, using spray adhesive. The wedges used to support the stock are cut from the same hard foam and are glued in place. You can also use heavy cardboard. Both make a stable platform that prevents mishaps and errors. The comb hardware I’m using is made by Doug Keener of Madison, Ohio, who sells these on eBay for around 60 bucks. It’s top quality, with close tolerances solid as a rock and by far the best value in rifle comb hardware I’ve found yet.
Continued...