View Full Version : Problems with M1 Cycling Ammo
A friend as a M1 that has been having problems cycling ammo during firing. After each round is fired the bolt stays open. We have to close it to fire the next round. This happens for the first 3-4 rounds. Then the rifle functions as it should for the remaining rounds.
The ammo he's been using has been all Lake City.
Any ideas what might be causing this problem ?
Thanks, Bob.
Tired operating spring. Replace spring and grease her up. Scrub the chamber and fire away.
A friend as a M1 that has been having problems cycling ammo during firing. After each round is fired the bolt stays open. We have to close it to fire the next round. This happens for the first 3-4 rounds. Then the rifle functions as it should for the remaining rounds.
The ammo he's been using has been all Lake City.
Any ideas what might be causing this problem ?
Thanks, Bob.
When you say, "close it", do you mean that all you need to do is to give the op rod a bump with the heel of your hand; and it'll jump forward, strip a round and chamber it? What is the bolt hanging up on when this stoppage happens? The top round in the clip, or is it stopped somewhere to the rear of the round?
Yes, if you give the op rod a bump with the heel of your hand; and it will jump forward, strip a round and chamber it. Do not know if the bolt is sticking on something or not. The bolt seems to be sticking towards the back.
It sounds like the op rod spring is quite tired and it may also be lacking proper lubrication. The op rod spring needs to be lubed so it can slide in the op rod. Replace the op rod spring and lube it up. Let us know what you find out.
You might also want to check for a bent op rod situation (an undue amount of rubbing on the barrel or stock). BTW, this is a USGI rifle, right? Not a commercial reproduction?
It's a CMP rifle from 2001. Hasn't had more then 50 rounds fired through it since purchase. Will try some of the suggestions. Thanks.
It's a CMP rifle from 2001. Hasn't had more then 50 rounds fired through it since purchase. Will try some of the suggestions. Thanks.
The rifle may simply be dried out after sitting for so long. The M-1 is meant to be lightly greased in about a half dozen critical places (see operator's manual). That's not to say that they won't function if bone dry, but they are more likely to jam up in that condition. I recall that happening during a match @ the local gun club. The club had been undergoing landscaping and the wind was kicking up some dust. Toward the end of the shooting, one participant's rifle simply seized up. With the assistance of the club's resident "pro's" it was quickly put back in operating condition and the owner got the added benefit of a brief, but well intentioned, lecture on proper maintenance.
Dan Shapiro
11-03-2014, 07:58
As mentioned, it sounds like the op rod spring. The spring is subject to the most resistance when pushing the follower against a full clip of cartridges. As the cartridges are used up, there's less resistance from the remaining cartridges as they're pushed into the path of the bolt. Op rod spring "Free" length should be between 19 1/2 and 20 1/4 inches long. Use a cleaning rod to clean out all the accumulated junk in the op rod tube. The spring should be lightly greased the first half of it's length (the part that goes down the tube first). Orion 7 sells a mil-spec spring that's guaranteed for as long as you own it. Stay away from "Wolf" competition springs. They cause more problems than they supposedly cure.
Let us know how it works out.
Dan Shapiro
11-03-2014, 07:59
As mentioned, it sounds like the op rod spring. The spring is subject to the most resistance when pushing the follower against a full clip of cartridges. As the cartridges are used up, there's less resistance from the remaining cartridges as they're pushed into the path of the bolt. Op rod spring "Free" length should be between 19 1/2 and 20 1/4 inches long. Use a cleaning rod to clean out all the accumulated junk in the op rod tube. The spring should be lightly greased the first half of it's length (the part that goes down the tube first). Orion 7 sells a mil-spec spring that's guaranteed for as long as you own it. Stay away from "Wolf" competition springs. They cause more problems than they supposedly cure.
Let us know how it works out. :icon_bounce:
Sounds more like a clip or follower thing to me. If it was the op rod or op spring, it'd happen all the time. Absolutely start with a bath and re-lube, but look for burrs in the receiver too. And change clips, if you have 'em.
M1 Rifle TM and FM's are here. Note the need for the provided UN & PW.
www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/
Is the gas cyl on the barrel tight and the gas cyl plug screw tightened down? The don't run so good if you're losing gas at the front end.
Is the gas cyl on the barrel tight and the gas cyl plug screw tightened down? The don't run so good if you're losing gas at the front end.
A loose gas plug may lead to a failure to eject. I don't see that as his problem.
Bought a Op rod spring last week, and then picked up my friends rifle. After reading the advice on the forum it did sound like a spring problem. Took it apart this weekend. The spring had a very large kink in it towards the follower end. Several areas on the outside coils of the spring also had flat spots worn on them. Waiting for the weather to get a little better so we can take it out and try it.
When I first got to taking care of my American Legion's M-1's some 7-8 years ago, naturally they were poorly maintained. Some had been blank-fired and never cleaned, some even assembled wrong ... yes it's possible to do.
But one I took down had the Op Rod Spring in two sections .... obviously broken at some point but never disassembled to find it. Or, perhaps someone saw it but was not privy to "spare parts" like me. Naturally I replaced it.
Point being, the Garand will often function with broken or worn parts, it's a beautiful machine. It will even work improperly cleaned or poorly lubed. But sometimes it will not work completely until all the above is performed.
Good shooting...
CMP shipped more than a few with old BROKEN op rod springs that still functioned.
Clean and lube as former posts say and include the follower grooves on each side of the inside of the receiver.
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