Just bought Excellent Cadet SRS check please

[m1ashot]

I'm a collector that has developed an eye for un molested rifles. This looks above great. Stock tiny dings all cartouces plus small inspector marks perfect. I may be to good to be true. Serial 110034 cartouche 1879. Has a 35 on top of stock in front of buttplate tang. Does not appear sanded. Bore perfect. Bore bright, bluing 95%.

[Dan Shapiro]

Pictures!

[m1ashot]

I'll work on pictures

[Dick Hosmer]

You may have something there - 1879 cartouches are quite uncommon, and, would be correct at that serial number, though I do not (off the top of my head) recall any cadets in that range.

Definitely need good clear pictures.

[m1ashot]

Can someone post pics for me. Even though I'm good at computers. I spent a lotta time trying to post on this forum with little success thanks

[m1ashot]

295252952629527undefined

[m1ashot]

M on trigger guard, u on ferrules. US on butt plate tang

[Dick Hosmer]

I was wrong about serial range - a cadet is possible with that number.

No one seems to know much about 1879 cartouches - they occur both as ESA/1879 in a large oval and (following Allin's sudden death) SWP/1879 in the clipped-corner rectangle, which yours has.

The hammer may have been replaced, as that style was not officially adopted until 1880.

[Tom Trevor]

Closest SRS hits would be 110028 and 110037 and both are rifles closest cadet listed is 110224. Hope this helps.

[m1ashot]

Referring to hammer I thought my serial # shows rifle built 1880. Is that correct?

[Dick Hosmer]

There is a degree of flexibility in such things, and when it is very close, as in your case, one needs to look at color, texture, degree of wear, etc. If things look "reasonable", benefit of the doubt is normally given. Very few people would be aware of the point, in any case. I'd say - based on what I have seen so far - that you have a very nice find - enjoy!!

[m1ashot]

The screw slots are perfect. It looks like never taken down. I'm supicises of tang screw. I normally collect M1's yes it is experience looking at hundreds of rifles. Can I shoot it? Normaly I dont. Copper seems to be coming on cleaning patchs.

Side plate is blued is that right?

[Dick Hosmer]

If you do decide to take it down (and I wouldn't, if not required) you need to be VERY careful on such a nice gun where the metal has been below the wood for many years. There are tricks and/or kinks to be followed to minimize the possibility of damage. The trigger plate and lock-plate are particularly prone to pulling out a chip when removed carelessly.

[Fred]

The lock plate screws AND the breech screw ALL need to be loosened before either the receiver/breech tang or the lock plate can be ever so carefully removed. Loosening these screws will allow the binding of the wood to be minimal. The metal to wood fit on these rifles is as tight as bark on a tree.

[m1ashot]

I'm just going to clean it, and not take it apart thank you for help

[m1ashot]

Dick is that book you have as an avatar about 1873's

[Dick Hosmer]

No, it is about the very first .58 and .50 trapdoors, the models of 1865-1870, plus all of the the other .50 arms made at SA from 1865 to 1872. I am finishing up "book three" of the trapdoor trilogy once envisioned by North Cape. The book you want for your gun would be Poyer's .45-70 Springfield, 5th edition, the second book of the series, though it was the first one published. I think you'd find mine interesting as well (Send $25 to POB 1367 Colusa CA 95932 for an autographed copy, postpaid)