different markings by different mfg?

[trimmer99]

I'm relatively new to the M1917 and am looking for one with all original markings as it was originally issued. Stopped at a local gun shop today and looked at the 4 they had on hand. All seemed to be mix masters with at least one part not original to the rifle. My question is: Did each mfg mark their rifles in different places? I saw a bolt that did not seem to have any r w or e stamps, a safety marked with an e on an Eddystone with other safetys not marked at all, no marks on barrel bands etc. It appears to my untrained eye that there was no uniform system of marking common to all manufacturers. Am I correct? If so did each mfg have a uniform marking system within their own production line? If they did, is there any source which I can access that will tell me where I should look for markings on the different manufacturers rifles, eg on Eddystone look for an e stamped on x y & z parts but on Winchester only expect to see a w on y & z with x being blank? Thanks so much in advance for your help. RB

[emmagee1917]

Here's one :
http://m1903.com/m1917markings.htm
Chris

[trimmer99]

Thank you Chris. I was just getting on the forum to let everyone know I had found that same source this morning using Google. Excellent resource. I discovered that in a number of cases I was looking on the wrong side of the part and thought they were unmarked. RB

[RC20]

Get the Ferris Book on the 1917.

You can find it used on Ebay, mine is almost new with some markings in it.

Its well worth it though the source you found is good.

You have to be insanely lucky to find an non issued 1917 that has not been through the mill.

I think the so called mix masters are the real guns and the pristine are fakes! (grin).

Value wise of course those pristine fakes get top dollar (I..e. its tough to tell the fake form the real as well, as many have been "converted") . You have to know people who know 1917s and probably in person to get a good idea if its been re-converted or a real one (provenance is tough on these)

CMP has some good people to sort it out (John Bear, Rick the Librarian are prominent but there are others who know 1917s and details as well)

Two choices, pay the top dollar for a pure one or buy as good as you can real one and buy the parts to convert it.

Please note that the mother of all parts to get to is inside the safety block and that is a marked part as well, you have to successfully remove it, check it and then replace it while still getting it back together!