Up date on Wolf's Lair

[S.A. Boggs]

Since I am in no hurry and due to my weakened condition progress has been a little slow. In the process I have learned many things on "modern" construction. First thing I discovered that wood is not as advertised. I am using a great deal of wood that I had left over from another project. My 2x6x16 isn't what I thought they were. I am having to work with this in the construction of the reloading table. The top and base will be constructed of the 2xwhatever as I want a good solid top, the base is made of the same material bolted together. I has intended for the walls to be painted white so I purchased a paint advertised as covering in one coat. I used OSB as my wall covering and it sure soaked up the paint. I thought that I had applied a good heavy coat, just went to look at it and I am disgusted. The walls will need several more coats to cover the printing on the OSB which means I will need to buy another couple of gallons, so I am going to switch color's. My favorite color is blue so I am going for "Petty Blue" in a quality paint. Instead of nailing the OSB I had intended to use my nailer's as I don't have enough strength for a regular hammer. I ran 200 feet of heavy cord and connected my compressor blowing the connection. Where I could plug the cord in won't take the start up of the compressor. Instead I ended up using long wood screws and discovered something else. My OSB is tough as nails to run a self tapping screw thru, so I took one of my cordless drills and drilled a pilot hole. To place the screws I got out ole reliable, a WEN 1/2" corded drill built in Chicago. I have had it for close to 40 years and it has never let me down, the cordless didn't have the power to put the screws in unless I leaned on them. All in all I am having fun in doing this with no time constrain to bother me.
Sam

[Allen]

Don't know what all you're running into but in my findings I discovered that pressure treated pine, though the idea of using it on everything sounds good, it isn't. It warps after it dries out. All lumber is not measured the same. There is sometimes differences between brands. I use the hardened dry wall screws on my projects even though they rust. I have tried zinc coated decking screws on many occasions w/o any luck. They seem to be made of aluminum since my cordless drill snaps the heads off EVERY one of them. Though expensive and hard to find I use SS dry wall screws now. If using an exterior primer I found out that paint will not stick to Gliden primer (sold at Home Depot). At least with your project you aren't rushed. In my past I never had that luxury due to 12 hr rotating shift work and getting called in on my off days, daily rains and other interruptions. Now, I'm retired but don't have the energy any more or just don't give a crap.

[IditarodJoe]

Now, I'm retired but don't have the energy any more or just don't give a crap.
At times I've felt the same way, but have been doing my best not to give in to it. That kind of thinking will just get you a low "next served" number in heaven's waiting room. I look forward to being in the Lord's presence eventually, but don't feel like rushing things. :icon_wink:

[JB White]

Sam, use a primer/sealer prior to painting. If it's sucking up paint like a sponge odds are anything printed beneath it will telegraph through eventually.
I concur on using the treated lumber. It's a bit oversized (dimensionally) compared to framing lumber. It swells a little during the chemical treatment so you'll be a tad strong in key areas. Doors, windows etc. The throat will be strong so you'll get a poor fit when trimming unless you're making your own frames from scratch.
You can get away with using treated on sole plates and headers so long as you trade off centered with the framing stock. Everything is engineered for its intended purpose. Measurements like 1 1/2", 3 1/2", 1/2" 5/8" etc. are held as close as possible for an end result within a certain range when installing openings. Toss treated into the mix you could gain as much as 1/8 to 3/16 on nearly every stick.
Once framing lumber is enclosed it won't go anywhere. At least not much.

[S.A. Boggs]

Sam, use a primer/sealer prior to painting. If it's sucking up paint like a sponge odds are anything printed beneath it will telegraph through eventually.
I concur on using the treated lumber. It's a bit oversized (dimensionally) compared to framing lumber. It swells a little during the chemical treatment so you'll be a tad strong in key areas. Doors, windows etc. The throat will be strong so you'll get a poor fit when trimming unless you're making your own frames from scratch.
You can get away with using treated on sole plates and headers so long as you trade off centered with the framing stock. Everything is engineered for its intended purpose. Measurements like 1 1/2", 3 1/2", 1/2" 5/8" etc. are held as close as possible for an end result within a certain range when installing openings. Toss treated into the mix you could gain as much as 1/8 to 3/16 on nearly every stick.
Once framing lumber is enclosed it won't go anywhere. At least not much.
My building was pre built, just hollow inside. I will go with your advice as it has been decades since I last had to paint something I have owned. The other area that I am working on has treated lumber that has dried and is stable.
Sam

[Emri]

The walls will need several more coats to cover the printing on the OSB which means I will need to buy another couple of gallons

You HAVE to prime raw wood. No amount of cover paint will keep the printed marks from showing. An excellent product is brand named "KILZ". Get the water based stuff or you won't be able to stay in the building to finish painting the first coat. The "original" formula is solvent based and should only be used outside. The primer also keeps the cover paint from disappearing into the raw wood.

HTH,

Emri

[S.A. Boggs]

You HAVE to prime raw wood. No amount of cover paint will keep the printed marks from showing. An excellent product is brand named "KILZ". Get the water based stuff or you won't be able to stay in the building to finish painting the first coat. The "original" formula is solvent based and should only be used outside. The primer also keeps the cover paint from disappearing into the raw wood.

HTH,

Emri
I followed your suggestion to the letter. Wal-Mart tinted the white to a pale blue and the results are terrific. Another plus was that with my discount card I got the paint at $8.00 per gallon. Due to neuropathy of the feet I cannot stand for long periods of time, that is why I am working a section at a time. This week I will have the rest of the OSB up and painted. I am going to use the white as a first cover and then the blue so as not to waste or have any left over paint. I am going to repaint the floor as the tan didn't turn out so well, will go to battleship gray as the final cover. I am going to con my wife into making some throw rugs out of old jeans for floor coverings. That way I can just throw them into the wash when dirty. Thanks Emri for the heads up on the brand, you were right on target!:banana100::hello:
Sam

[S.A. Boggs]

When I build the top of the bench I will have a "valley" between the boards, any idea on a good way to fill them? The wood will be painted over so there shouldn't be a problem on covering the filler.
Sam

[JB White]

Lose the radiused edges. Then plane the edges to match (clamped) and glue-up joinery. Mark your matched edges as you go and always remember one edge will be inverted to the next.
Once the glue up is finished, cut the top to desired size. Plane and sand.
Too many people try to cut pieces to match length and can't figure out why nothing fits right. I see them doing the same thing on porches and decks. Always an irregular finished edge, instead of running long, snapping a line, and cut all at once. Biggest excuse is not wanting to finish with a hand saw.

[Emri]

Thanks Emri for the heads up on the brand, you were right on target!

You are quite welcome and I am glad I could help. I have been working in the same hardware store for 33 years now and know a little about some things. I hated Kilz until they came out with water base. I use it to prime everything I am going to paint, even sheetrock.

For the bench top, when I made my gunsmith bench I used 2x6 boards and covered them with 3/4" plywood. NO small parts can escape into cracks that way!! Gives a nice flat surface for whatever cover or mat you desire to use. A lot less work than planing and matching board edges. Plus down here, humidity changes don't affect the plywood bench top. Individual boards are going to shrink or expand no matter how closely they are fitted.

Post some pics when you "get er done".

Emri

[S.A. Boggs]

Working on the Lair gives me something to do THAT I WANT TO DO, not what I have to do. Sometimes I just sit there and run different ways to do/position in the building. I wake up now thinking not of what client I will see but what fun I can have today. Right now I am designing my 14 foot work/reloading bench. If I was doing it for someone else it would be a job, for me it is fun. Looking @ large tool boxes to place under the bench, where will my stash of ammo cans go or the new gun safe that I want. So many fun things that I can plan for and the only time constraint is what I put on myself.:hello::banana100:
Sam

[lyman]

re that OSB,

if you have a lot more to do, get a drywall gun,
and a box of the Phillips head bits,

works like a champ on OSB using course threaded drywall type screws

[S.A. Boggs]

Spent the past two days constructing my bench out of 2x6x16's The inboard reach is 25" and this bench is stout! My Deacon came by as he was reading meter's and was amazed at it. I have always hated a bench that had any give in it, this thing is rock solid. I was going to paint the top but the grain of the pine is so nice that I am going to stain and apply poly to it. Tomorrow AM I am going to sand the top to start the process, the bench is 15'14" in length.
Sam

[JimF]

. . . . .the bench is 15'14" in length.
Sam

Would that be about the same length as 16' 2"? (Heh-heh!)

[S.A. Boggs]

Would that be about the same length as 16' 2"? (Heh-heh!)
Depends on how I measure it.
Sam

[Emri]

Pictures man, PICTURES !!!

[S.A. Boggs]

Pictures man, PICTURES !!!
Will try tomorrow!
Sam

[Darreld Walton]

You HAVE to prime raw wood. No amount of cover paint will keep the printed marks from showing. An excellent product is brand named "KILZ". Get the water based stuff or you won't be able to stay in the building to finish painting the first coat. The "original" formula is solvent based and should only be used outside. The primer also keeps the cover paint from disappearing into the raw wood.

HTH,

Emri

After the wife and I got married, we decided to rent her home out. Found a manager with a good reputation to handle things. She didn't do the job as advertised, and after several months of no rent, we finally evicted the tennants. They'd apparently been dealing "stuff" in there, and had three very large, nasty canines in the home, who felt a need to urinate profusely in every room, soaking the carpets beyond cleaning. Stripped it all out, and used the Kilz to mask the odor. Very effective for that, but still took two, and in one room, three coats to get the job done.
I suppose I'm fortunate living about 500 yards from a lumber mill that will cut to spec. If I order their "dimensional" lumber, I get those dimensions. Makes it bit easier for my simple mind to deal with.