AR15 lube

[Allen]

What do you guys have the best luck with as far as type of lube for the AR15? I've read where they run better wet, as in oiled. Some say they run better dry. My brother used to be a cop and he would only use powdered graphite on the departments M16's. I have 2 new AR's that I haven't shot yet and want to try them out. I don't want a greasy gun. I'm leaning toward the dry graphite. Any concerns or recommendations?

[keith smart]

There are lots of approaches and products but I don't think wet with oil or graphite is a good idea. The parts that slide I use a very thin application of Lubriplate. Light oil on the rest.

[gwp]

I have used a lot of different lubricants on the AR type rifles with good results. The lighter oils will burn off if the firearm gets realy hot (constant rapid fire, mag dumps or full auto fire). For normal use a CLP, Weapon Shield and 0W50 synthetic motor oil are all OK, but many oils will work. I use a light grease on the bolt lugs and cam pin. When mixing lubricants they should be similar types. The important thing is the moving parts are lubricated.

I believe a light coating of lubricant is enough for most conditions. On the Army ranges if a weapon malfunctioned usually the first thing that was done was to flood the action with CLP. This would often work for the dry arms room weapons, but many times the problem was with worn magazines.

I currently use a light coating of Weapon Shield with Geissele Automatics ALG Go-Juice 0000 Very Thin Grease. The Go-Juice could probably be used for everything.

The type and quantity of the lube is not as important as just having the weapon lubed.

[m1ashooter]

I'm not rolling around in the dirt so I just use CLP and Hoppes #9 to clean the bore.

[Jim in Salt Lake]

I like Frog Lube. Use it where you see wear marks and moving parts. No need to flood it. I'll clean the bolt carrier assembly every time, pretty easy. The barrel gets cleaned when it needs it.

[p246]

Slip 2000 weapons lube. Synthetic, thick, 30rd mag dumps doesn’t burn it off.

[togor]

I'm not rolling around in the dirt so I just use CLP and Hoppes #9 to clean the bore.

+1

[S.A. Boggs]

I have a large can of Lubriplate and 3 cases of Plastilube so this is what I use as a grease. I use CLP when an oil is indicated and then very little. My wife was having trouble with her sewing machine running smoothly, so I took it apart to clean the machine. Her machine oil had attracted dust and debris turning the residue into a gummy paste. I cleaned the machine completely, took canned air to get into all crevices. Where I could see wear marks I lightly applied Plastilube with CLP on any springs. I left her bottle of oil next to the machine to let her think this is what I had used. When she started to sew it was very quiet, a humming sound and was a lot faster then before...she was amazed! I told her what I had done, now in her "kit" is a little tub of Plastilube.
Sam

[lyman]

run it somewhat wet with CLP,
grease up the recoil spring to take the sproing noise down

clean the bore with hoppes

[Former Cav]

I'm not rolling around in the dirt so I just use CLP and Hoppes #9 to clean the bore.

I started using break free CLP... GOOD STUFF however, during a rifle match the smoke would come out of the charging handle gap and go right into your aiming eye!! So I switched back to LSA. never had an issue.
In vietnam, we used LSA and DIESEL for the cleaning part. Course, I was in an armored cav unit. LOTS of DIESEL around. NEVER had a problem.
one stoppage due to ammo. (posted elsewhere)

[lyman]

I started using break free CLP... GOOD STUFF however, during a rifle match the smoke would come out of the charging handle gap and go right into your aiming eye!! So I switched back to CLP. never had an issue.
In vietnam, we used CLP and DIESEL for the cleaning part. Course, I was in an armored cav unit. LOTS of DIESEL around. NEVER had a problem.
one stoppage due to ammo. (posted elsewhere)

run a small bead of RTV along the inside curve or the charging handle, and some anti stick or lube on the part of the upper where the charging handle stops against,
when it cures, it makes a good gasket to prevent the smoke from getting in your eyes

[barretcreek]

I'm going to use a diesel grade synthetic motor oil on the BCG. Diesel oils are for keeping soot and crud in suspension. Pop the BCG into the ultrasonic every so often and see how it does.

[Fred Pillot]

My brother gave me a bottle of Dri Slide years ago. Finally built an A4 and used it on the bolt carrier. Contains Molybdenum Disulfide (like moly bullets). A dry lube that helped out the early users of the M16 in Vietnam. The gasses that work the bolt carrier blast right into the action and can gum up the oily lube(I am told). But what really got me is the fact that Dri Slide on the hammer/trigger sear really slickened it up. Standard single stage trigger that I stoned and lessened the sear engagement to get rid of creep. But the Dri Slide got the trigger pull down to 5 LBS. from 6 LBS. or so.

[Andouille]

For many years (you learn things in the Army you can use your whole life), I used the same LSA the army issued before the CLP came along, with no complaints. I run them "damp" but not "dripping" wet. The army did not issue grease for the buffer and buffer spring, so neither do I. As far as I'm concerned, the Army issued the "sprong" along with the rifle and that's just part of it.

However of late, I've switched to the "machine gun lube" available from LaRue. Seems to allow less carbon build-up on the interior surfaces of the bolt carrier group, and the carbon is softer and easier to remove.

https://www.larue.com/products/machine-gunners-lube/

The Army issued shaving brushes for lube purposes. Get one wet (but not dripping) with whatever lube you think best, and give things a good wipe down before re-assembly.

Finally: My nephew the jarhead, who did multiple tours in Iraq on the pointy end of the spear, and knows what he's talking about when it comes to high usage in dusty environments, swears by Remington Dry Lube.

[PaFrank]

I use synthetic motor oil 0W5 if i recall. Definitely hi temp. I just pour a half teaspoon in my hands rub together and then rub my bolt down and assemble. Haven't had a problem.

[rcnixon]

The School of the American Rifle channel on YouTube uses synthetic motor oil and same-brand synthetic grease mixed to the consistency of honey and then applied pretty much everywhere behind the bolt head with a flux brush. I made some up with full synthetic Valvoline 5W40 and Valvoline synthetic grease and lubed up my A2s. I'm going to try to get to the range this week to try them out with this regime.

[S.A. Boggs]

Any updates on lube, always willing to learn.
Sam

[Former Cav]

use whatever you've been using that has been working for you forever. It if works DON'T fix it!

[JohnMOhio]

I have been using a product called Militec-1, It is a synthetic oil and a grease is also available. Heard about this product here on Culvers some years back. Story was a father wanted to send something to his son over in the sandbox. The company sent cases of the stuff for free and the troops found it to be excellent on their firearms. Especially in the sandy conditions. Since we are not really subject to the same conditions the product should work even better. Don't know how you can upgrade excellent except give it a plus rating. I like the results I have had.

[Former Cav]

I started using break free CLP... GOOD STUFF however, during a rifle match the smoke would come out of the charging handle gap and go right into your aiming eye!! So I switched back to CLP. never had an issue.
In vietnam, we used CLP and DIESEL for the cleaning part. Course, I was in an armored cav unit. LOTS of DIESEL around. NEVER had a problem.
one stoppage due to ammo. (posted elsewhere)

I had a brain phart here. That is supposed to be LSA... NOT CLP