Need some advice with a Uberti-Remington

[JB White]

Much longer posting than normal for me, but I want to give you as much detail as possible without writing a book or making a boring 20 minute video.

A few years ago I was gifted a nice looking but not so perfectly operating "Remington Outlaw" in 45 Colt. It came to me in a Navy Arms repair box but no ticket to see what NA might have done. I have good reason to think it was for a hammer nose replacement and I'll get into the reasoning in a bit.

It checked out so-so/OK so I fired it. I ignored the slightly "gritty feeling" action but later experienced a cylinder bind/hang up. The heavy hammer made my thumb raw in short order as well. Cleaned it and set it aside until last week. Almost forgot I had it. Time to get it going....

1. FP hole was cratered outward at the bottom edge. (grabbing the spent primers?)
2. Hammer nose retaining pin was proud and dragging the frame.
I suspect dry firing and a broken nose, thus the NA repair. I shaved the proud metal inside the frame opening and addressed the ragged peening on the nose retaining pin. While I had the gun apart I addressed any other drag marks. Action smoothed up nicely...but that heavy, black powder, percussion cap smashing, mainspring had to go.
*** Keep in mind I had no reason to touch any notches. Those looked good as-is. ***

Looked up VTI for 1875 Uberti-Remington parts. Bought their lightened mainspring and a spare bolt/sear spring which was listed as a factory replacement. The bolt spring was a bust. Compared to my factory spring (Colt-like arched flat dual spring) this new one was a recurve design. It didn't operate the bolt properly, so I set it aside and finished reassembly with the origin factory flat spring. Had to shim a little below the new mainspring to keep the hammer bearing from slipping off, but it wasn't a problem.

Lo and behold! This thing cycled like a tuned Blackhawk aside from the number of clicks. No more AD thumb slips either when decocking. I was just feeling proud of my work until I checked the letoff. Kind of light for my liking so out came the trigger scale. Barely one pound??? Dang it. I should have checked it before just to know, but I know it wasn't THAT light.

Opened it up and dinked and putzed for a little looking things over then remembered I had that spare spring. Figured a little bending might make it work (forget about sending it back...I'm in trouble shooting mode now!). Out came the torch...
Took three tries before I got it shaped and balanced to work and it is working now. Nice solid lockup at full cock and the cylinder bolt is timed nicely. BUT...I only gained half a pound or so. It's still too light for my liking as I prefer a 3# SA trigger. I can live with the plus side of 2# if I had to.
1.5 pounds even if it's a solid,break-glass letoff is too touchy for a weekend out with others. I wish I had measured the trigger pull before all this. I may be in the ballpark for all I know and the dragging only made things feel otherwise.

So, there is my problem. Aside from going back to a 4,000# factory mainspring (I exaggerated...sue me) is there a practical way to get the poundage up on the trigger? I feel as though I'm overlooking something simple. Any tips trick or lectures? Thanks.

I'm going to post this...then put back both factory springs and put the trigger scale to it. Try again. :eusa_whistle:

[JB White]

Went back and tried it again with the factory springs. Trigger at just barely under 3# but a bear to cock. Measuring the hammer draw as best I could I get an average 50%+ difference between the two mainsprings. I think I found my 1.5# variance in letoff?

I put the light springs back in. In spite of the lighter springs I just ran a few cylinders of CCI primers through it. All went off so I know it'll handle Winchester and Federal.
If I leave the factory springs in it I probably won't use the thing. No fun if I have to fight it and the kids/some women can't safely manage it. I really don't want a "fastdraw" gun either but I fear I may be stuck with one. What are my options now?

[Emri]

Try another trigger/bolt spring just to see what it is like. Also, you can double up on the trigger spring. Cut the bolt side off so you have only the trigger side left. Put that spring on top of the other spring and it should make the trigger pull heavier. Check the angles of the sear surfaces to make sure the trigger is not slipping off due to improper angle. The trigger, with NO spring, should hold the hammer at full cock with the hammer spring holding pressure on the hammer.

Good Luck!!

Emri

[JB White]

I did the sear check but I'll look again since I'll have it apart. When the trigger was super light before the reshaping and bending, I couldn't knock it out of engagement. Pushing on the hammer and giving it a rap with a plastic mallet it held fast.

Doubling up on the spring is a good idea to try. First I've heard of that trick. I'll have to order another since I don't want to modify the original factory one. I may have to take a tad off the screw head height to get the trigger guard to fit properly.

Sounds like a very straight forward approach and... Thank You very much!

[Emri]

Sounds like you are good to go on the sear notch. I have used the double spring trick before to "fix" a problem just as you describe on your pistol. And yes, you may have to shave the screw head or drill a small recess in the TG.
BTW, you got lucky, hitting the hammer with a plastic mallet is a very good way to break the hammer notch, trigger sear or both!! I know that from personal experience too!!

Emri

[JB White]

BTW, you got lucky, hitting the hammer with a plastic mallet is a very good way to break the hammer notch, trigger sear or both!! I know that from personal experience too!!

OH NO!! My apologies for my lack of words. What I meant was I pushed on the hammer but I rapped on the frame with the plastic mallet. Just to see if it could be knocked off perch by jarring. I gave your idea a go using both springs I have on hand. The factory spring snugged down atop the VTI spring. Just to see for myself even though the springs have different profiles. The 'helper' raised it a tad. Without the TG in place it measured on the plus side of 2#.
I went ahead and ordered a pair from Taylors since I know the VTI springs would need work to function. You're right about having to put the TG on the drill press. I can see that right off.
The TG stood a wee bit proud due to that screw head when I first got the gun. Not much. Just the feeling of an edge. Radiusing the screw head allowed for a nice, no-feel joint.

When I ordered the pair of bolt springs I went ahead and ordered a replacement bolt spring screw for just in case. Than added a spare hand spring while I was at it. Funny part is the pair of bolt springs from Taylors were a buck less than the single spring from VTI. But...VTI had the lighter mainspring when I was looking for one.

[JB White]

Emri, Thank you.

The Taylor's springs are the same as all the rest available on the market now. Not enough to do the trick on its own in an older revolver. I set their springs aside for spares and made a Colt-type spring from a section of hacksaw blade sans the bolt/sear leaf as you mentioned. Put that atop the reshaped VTI spring. After a little relief work on the underside of the TG coupled with the modified screw head, the revolver went back together perfectly.
The action is slick but positive, no added strain on the bolt but engages fine, and the trigger breaks at a clean 2.5#. So, I'm very pleased with the results. Time to run some fresh 45 Colt through it

Thanks again!
JB

[Emri]

You're welcome ! Glad it worked for you also. And yes, I did think you had taken your plastic mallet to the pistol's hammer !!

Have Fun,

Emri