Cleaning and oiling Trapdoor stock

[Reeferman]

These are pictures of my 1873 trapdoor. I want to clean and oil it and have been told so many different ways and with some products I’ve never heard of. I tried one method on the stock just behind the tang where it was black. I used lacquer thinner on a rag and then rubbed a thin coat of boiled linseed oil and it seemed to be ok.
I am not trying to alter the stock just want to clean the 136 years of crud off it and then oil it. It has lots of dings and scratches and that’s ok.
Also should the inside of the stock be treated with the linseed oil as well with a brush?

[bruce]

Go slow. Do not use steel wool, solvents, etc. Turpentine applies with care using a soft rag would be useful. JMHO. Sincerely.

[JimF]

Were you able to remove the lock plate and trigger plate WITHOUT chipping the wood?

[Reeferman]

Were you able to remove the lock plate and trigger plate WITHOUT chipping the wood?

It looks like the side plate may have been off before but the trigger guard came out perfect. Used Koba49 YouTube video to disassemble it and everything went smooth.

[Reeferman]

Been trying to find information on the right way to clean and recoil this trapdoor stock but not finding much. The only info I’ve been able to find is on the video by the Duelist on full30. He used lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil on a carbine stock.
I’m only going to use rags with the lacquer thinner to get to bare wood then start putting coats of linseed oil on by hand. Another question is should I put linseed oil with a brush on inside surfaces of the stock?
I want to do this right and hoping for answers from those who have done this.
The only things I haven’t removed from the stock are the band springs and cleaning rod stop.

[free1954]

in my opinion, lacquer thinner is too harsh. from your pics your stock doesn't look that bad.

[Emri]

in my opinion, lacquer thinner is too harsh. from your pics your stock doesn't look that bad.

I agree with free1954. Use mineral spirits to clean the surface. It won't remove patina and won't harm the wood. Re-oil with linseed oil. Yes, you can brush it inside the stock but, do not let it pool and dry. After a while to soak in, remove excess with rags, a tooth brush and compressed air if you have it.

Good Luck !!

Emri

[Reeferman]

There really isn’t any patina on the wood. Only stocks I have refinished are newer ones. Used lacquer thinner and then tru oil.
I figured if I took it down to the wood with lacquer thinner then rubbed half dozen or so coats of linseed oil on it and no sanding with anything it would still look the same but clean.

[Tkacook]

I wipe mine down with denatured alcohol first. Then I would just wipe the stock down with BLO - Boiled linseed Oil. It will remove dirt. Many applications will work better than just one. Don't try and glop a bunch on with each application. Let it dry between coats. The old adage once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year works pretty well. After that, maintenance applications are all that are needed.

[Mark Daiute]

I simply rub down repeatedly with lemon oil. Not lemon oil soap, just lemon oil. Denatured alcohol will remove the original finish.

[Tkacook]

I have never had it do that on mine. Maybe because I go light? Curious.

[steved66]

In my experience, no matter what chemical you use to clean the crud off the stock, the patina of the wood will be the same. Whether it's alcohol, acetone, turpentine, mineral spirits or aggressive chemical strip, the vintage patina will be restored once you rub in the BLO, provided that you do not use any abrasives in the cleaning process, just rags or paper towels. Only when you start removing wood cells by abrading with sand paper or strong steel wool (0000 doesn't do it) will you change the patina from the dark "restored" look to the lighter "refinished" look.

[Reeferman]

In my experience, no matter what chemical you use to clean the crud off the stock, the patina of the wood will be the same. Whether it's alcohol, acetone, turpentine, mineral spirits or aggressive chemical strip, the vintage patina will be restored once you rub in the BLO, provided that you do not use any abrasives in the cleaning process, just rags or paper towels. Only when you start removing wood cells by abrading with sand paper or strong steel wool (0000 doesn't do it) will you change the patina from the dark "restored" look to the lighter "refinished" look.

This stock is no where near as dark as a lot I’ve seen. Still working on getting the last of the lead out of the barrel. Will start on the stock in the next couple weeks.
Thanks for all the replies.

[Carlsr]

I have used the process described on this site by Dick Hosmer. Worked well for me even though I wasn't sure if I got the mixture correct. Not sure if 1/2 meant a cup or table spoon, I used 1/2 cup. After cleaning I then used Renaissance Wax which keeps the stock from drying out. Here is the site http://www.trapdoorcollector.com/restoration.html

[Dick Hosmer]

As I recall, the guy I got it from (now passed) used a cup of turps and a cup of linseed, with a heaping tablespoon of pumice. Kept the whole thing in an old (large) mayonnaise jar, it will last a long time, but should be shaken thoroughly before use. He had a second jar, using rottenstone - but he collected fine old shotguns, which needed the ultimate polish. For military rifles, the pumice solution will do the job.

[IditarodJoe]

Just one old guy's opinion, but . . . it depends.

You say that you don't want to "alter the stock". If by that you mean you don't want to alter the original patina, that ship may have already sailed. IMO, an unmolested 136 year old stock will be darker than what I see in your pictures due to exposure to the atmosphere, sunlight, and normal handling, so I'd say your stock has already been "cleaned" at some point. (Dick Hosmer has probably handled more trapdoors than most and I would certainly welcome his correction if I'm wrong.) Still, it looks like a nice stock.

If you truly just want to remove dirt and grime, the rule is "Go Slow". Depending on how much "crud" is on it, you might be surprised at what a gentle wipe down with water and a mild soap will accomplish. Beyond that, I agree with free1954 and Emri - odorless mineral spirits and a soft cloth are normally all that's needed. Boiled linseed oil rubbed in with a soft cloth may also remove some grime. Early on, I tried using denatured alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner, and was always disappointed with the result. They removed far more of the finish than I had intended.

Still, as I said, it depends . . .

Merrian-Webster defines patina as "a surface appearance of something grown beautiful especially with age or use". "Beauty" is subjective. So whether that means lightly cleaned or completely stripped & refinished, make it beautiful in your eyes.

BTW, your stock's interior wood has survived, unfinished, for 136 years with no apparent ill effects. Brush it off with a dry toothbrush and let it be. :icon_wink:

JMHO

[Reeferman]

This trapdoor has sat in a closet back home in the farm house for the last 45 years. At that time I loaded some trapdoor loads with a Lee loader using smokeless powder and jacketed 405 grain bullets. I shot maybe a couple dozen of them. It sat in that same closet according to family for 40 or so years previous to that.
How my grandfather who homesteaded in Saskatchewan from Ohio in 1903 came to have it is a mystery we are trying to solve. Unless he did something to the stock all those years ago it has never been touched other than a bit of cleaning and oil I put on the metal parts 45 years ago. I just got it from a brother who shall we say had a hard time giving up things from the family farm he took over back in the 70’s a few weeks ago. It also looks exactly how I remember it looked when I left 42 years ago.
Anyways I would like to thank all who have given advise on what to do and especially to Tom Trevor who found the SAS information.

[Reeferman]

One other thing I would like advise on is what would be the best to lubricate the lock assembly with? Oil or light grease?
I have it disassembled except haven’t gotten brave enough to seperate the hammer and tumbler. It had chunks of cosmoline in it and cleaned up very well. I’ve had all the metal soaking in Hoppes and is amazing the crap that has come off.

[Carlsr]

Thanks Dick Hosmer.

[steved66]

I'd use oil; less chance it would dry up / become stiff.

[Carlsr]

I have been using a dry lube made by OTIS. Bought a can at Cabelas some time ago to try. Seems to work rather well but now they don't sell it. Going to have to search when I run out. My reloading bench is in my basement so I have coated my dies with it as well. Great product.