VN era powder question

[barretcreek]

Found some H335 I bought in early '80s. Eight pounds in a plastic bag, came in a cardboard box sealed with a Hodgdon's label. I put it in a new unused paint can and put the lid on tight. Didn't save the lot number when I put the label in the can.

If this is surplus powder with flash suppressant, what is a good way to clean it out of the gas tube if that proves to be a problem? Disassembling the upper to put the gas tube in an ultrasonic is a little more than I want to think about if it can be avoided.

[p246]

Disassembly is the only way I’Ve found if the gas tube gets heavy carbon. I soak them in slip 2000 carbon cutter then ultra sonic cleaner. I wish there was a short cut.

[Tuna]

Did you just pour the powder into the paint can or left it in the plastic bag? If you poured it into the can then take it out and put it in a plastic container of some kind. Once powder starts to turn and it will it will release an acid vapor which will eat into the metal can and you wind up with red colored powder from the rust the acid has caused. The powder is useless at that point. Just about all powders have a flash suppressant in it. Most often a form of graphite that will reduce the flash and reduce the burning rate of the powder.

[lyman]

never understood why someone worried about cleaning out a gas tube,

they are cheap, and easy to replace,

if you are are shooting a powder that causes a build up
I've shot a few 8lb jugs of 844, and some 4895/4064/N140, N540 and maybe 5lbs of 748 thru multiple AR, including a M16 with out issue

[p246]

[QUOTE=lyman;555405]never understood why someone worried about cleaning out a gas tube,

they are cheap, and easy to replace,

if you are are shooting a powder that causes a build up
I've shot a few 8lb jugs of 844, and some 4895/4064/N140, N540 and maybe 5lbs of 748 thru multiple AR, including a M16 with out issue

I’d rather clean one and shoot it some more...

[lyman]

[QUOTE=lyman;555405]never understood why someone worried about cleaning out a gas tube,

they are cheap, and easy to replace,

if you are are shooting a powder that causes a build up
I've shot a few 8lb jugs of 844, and some 4895/4064/N140, N540 and maybe 5lbs of 748 thru multiple AR, including a M16 with out issue

I’d rather clean one and shoot it some more...


how many rounds are you shooting between cleaning, and what powder

I used primarily 844 when I shot high power, figure 2000 rounds a year,, maybe more, for 15 yrs and never had to change or clean a tube

[p246]

[QUOTE=p246;555408]


how many rounds are you shooting between cleaning, and what powder

I used primarily 844 when I shot high power, figure 2000 rounds a year,, maybe more, for 15 yrs and never had to change or clean a tube

For practice we buy low bid, the bid calls for the dirtiest powder available, okay I might be stretching the truth but it does not seem like it. I take care of a fleet of about 50 rifles so it varies, We have a mix of DI and short stroke gas piston. The SSGP Rifles also carbon at the gas block although the chamber stays much cleaner. The gas tubes are pulled once a year unless there is an issue. The range rifles have lots of rounds through them in a year, and those gas tubes have on occasion been welded in and take a soakng of kroil to get them out. The rifles still function, it’s just more of an armorers problem. I have collapsed two tubes trying to get them out due to carbon buildup and obviously those got pitched and new tubes installed. The range rifles are replaced every 10 Years and they are junk at that point (TE usually at 5 or 6, along with other issues)

[lyman]

interesting,

wondering if there is a way to measure build up in the tubes when you pull them once a year,

that would be some interesting data, esp if you knew the powder used in that practice ammo!

[p246]

interesting,

wondering if there is a way to measure build up in the tubes when you pull them once a year,

that would be some interesting data, esp if you knew the powder used in that practice ammo!

I don’t know the powder used as it’s all commercial ammo. The powder build up is mainly is around the front of the tube extending down about one inch from what I can tell. The rest of the gas tube remains open, obviously dirty but open. Once again this is on dedicated range rifles that get shot a lot in a year.

[S.A. Boggs]

This is one of the reasons that I shoot the Mini-14 over the AR-15. Not trying to start an argument, just my opinion.
Sam

[barretcreek]

Found the label at the bottom of the can. Had the foresight to leave the powder in the plastic bag and stuffed the label down there with it. "GI H335 lot 112486".

Thanks, Tuna.

[lyman]

This is one of the reasons that I shoot the Mini-14 over the AR-15. Not trying to start an argument, just my opinion.
Sam

with the mini14, if the powder is dirty, the gun still gets dirty, and is a pain to clean,
pull a tube, no you will not have to , but still clean a bit more,

and not as accurate,


FWIW, I have both, and enjoy shooting the mini on occasion

[S.A. Boggs]

I have the new one with the heavy tube and flash hider, as to cleaning not a problem better then replacing a tube. As to accuracy it is minute of button and that is all that I need. The M1A/M14 is worse to clean then the mini IMHO.
Sam

[lyman]

I have the new one with the heavy tube and flash hider, as to cleaning not a problem better then replacing a tube. As to accuracy it is minute of button and that is all that I need. The M1A/M14 is worse to clean then the mini IMHO.
Sam

easy to or not to clean is all relative I guess,

mine is the older (180 Series) blued with wood stock,

I can keep it on a sheet of paper, which is good for that model,
they are famous for not being accurate,

but then again, folks want match accuracy sometimes

[Sunray]

"...clean it out of the gas tube..." You clean the gas tube the same way you clean it for any powder. Said powder not making a lick of difference to how one cleans one's gas tube.

[S.A. Boggs]

easy to or not to clean is all relative I guess,

mine is the older (180 Series) blued with wood stock,

I can keep it on a sheet of paper, which is good for that model,
they are famous for not being accurate,

but then again, folks want match accuracy sometimes

I use Kroil #9 along with a stiff brush. I put some directly into the gas and let it drip down into the barrel to soak, as well as the opening itself into the operating rod. I use my Otis to do the same to the bore. After 60 minutes or so, I use a stiff brush and scrub where I can and an old bore brush to hit the inside. Wipe down the outside with a paper towel and .22 patches for the inside. Clean the bore as usual and then turn on my compressor and dry the inside of the gas system. Clean and lube same as the M1 and I am ready to go. One thing I always hated on the AR-15 system was the racket the spring made in the stock, never cared for it. An even easier one to clean is the G3 weapon system, a shooter's dream. The Mini and the G3 are not overly sensitive to powder as is the AR-15 system so that is why I prefer the former and sans the later.
Sam

[lyman]

AR's are generally not powder sensitive, I have ran probably 8 different powders, or more, over the years,

don't like the sproing sound? grease it,
just a dab of thick grease, on the spring, will make it a quiet as a Mini

[p246]

Barrett Creek, I found my notes on H335 when I was using it in the 90s. I wrote “fairly clean” as part of it. My lot was commercial and much newer FYI, so your results might vary. Good luck.

[Former Cav]

FAL's are easy to clean
I've had the m1a (my favorite) and I had a mini 14 that extremely early production. I picked it up at Montgomery Wards loading (catalog) dock. Mine even had a roller bearing on the bolt. The only one I've seen like it. It was blue with a wood stock. Like a moron, I traded it off and I should have checked the price first. Mine was a 2 MOA rifle which I guess is exceptional.
What I hate about cleaning the AR-15 is the bolt/star-spline/chamber area. Total pain in the lower extremities.