View Full Version : A live round jammed
There I was, at the range, shooting my 1925 Springfield M1903. After three shots, I chambered a live round that went part way into the chamber and stuck. I pushed the bolt harder - bad move on my part. Now the round is jammed and would not move in either direction. Not wanting to pound on the bullet from the muzzle, I consulted the Brownells web page and found and ordered one of their Stuck Case Pullers. It was on backorder so it took several weeks to get, but it was worth the wait. The puller is a well built, well designed tool that worked perfectly. The instructions are clear and there is even a tutorial video on their web page.
It had to be the round, right? But I examined the case and it looked fine, I even pulled the bullet, primer and powder and put it through my resizing die and found nothing wrong.
I tried to lightly chamber a dummy round in the rifle and it got stuck but the bolt extractor was able to pull it out. I looked inside the chamber with a bore light and could hardly believe that a tiny piece of grit on the chamber wall was causing the problem. It was easily removed with a medium bore brush soaked in bore cleaner. The dummy round would then completely enter the chamber smoothly.
Obviously, a live round that is stuck part way into a chamber of any firearm immediately becomes a very dangerous condition. The puller is the safest way to remove it.
One lesson I learned from this experience is to always gently chamber every round and stop pushing the bolt forward if resistance is felt. The bolt extractor might be able to pull it back.
The thing I wondered about - how often did something like this happen on the battlefield?
Probably not rare and probably they just hammered on the bolt to clear the jam. (It's possible that might have worked here but no need for you to try.) If that didn't work, then throw the rifle away and find some other way to stay alive.
Probably not rare and probably they just hammered on the bolt to clear the jam. (It's possible that might have worked here but no need for you to try.) If that didn't work, then throw the rifle away and find some other way to stay alive.
You do what’s necessary but your life can actually depend on a clean rifle.
Maybe a few Vietnam vets can tell us about their experiences with their M16s.
How close to home was the round when it jammed? Guessing pretty far. Was the grit at the neck or below the shoulder?
The collet on the puller looks like it needs about 1/8” of free space between the chamber opening and the case head to grip the head and that is about all that I had. The grit particle was below the shoulder.
Glad you and your rifle were unharmed. Always worthwhile to pass such stories along. Thank you for posting.
Glad you and your rifle were unharmed. Always worthwhile to pass such stories along. Thank you for posting.
You’re welcome. My favorite saying is: You never forget a lesson learned the hard way.
Another reason I don't care for the AR15 system with the bolt assist. One push, as expected, may cause a stuck case.
Another reason I don't care for the AR15 system with the bolt assist. One push, as expected, may cause a stuck case.
My grandson’s AR 10 had a round jam the last time he went shooting with me. Fortunately, he was able to retrieve it. It may have come out of the mag at a bad angle.
That a reload or factory? If it's a reload, it's probable that the case neck got pushed down during bullet seating or sizing. Look for a wee bulge on the shoulder. It's not usually fixable as it will probably not fit in the sizer die. However, as you got it out it's possibly the OAL is too long and the bullet was stuck in the rifling.
That "Stuck Case Puller' is not that. It's a ruptured case puller. Meant to remove cases that has the head pulled off.
The normal method of removing a live round, assuming you can get the bolt out, is a 1/4" brass rod(about $4 in Home Depot) into the barrel and a plastic mallet applied forcefully to said rod.
That a reload or factory? If it's a reload, it's probable that the case neck got pushed down during bullet seating or sizing. Look for a wee bulge on the shoulder. It's not usually fixable as it will probably not fit in the sizer die. However, as you got it out it's possibly the OAL is too long and the bullet was stuck in the rifling.
That "Stuck Case Puller' is not that. It's a ruptured case puller. Meant to remove cases that has the head pulled off.
The normal method of removing a live round, assuming you can get the bolt out, is a 1/4" brass rod(about $4 in Home Depot) into the barrel and a plastic mallet applied forcefully to said rod.
It was a reload and the case was not showing any signs of bulging around the head. I ran it back through the resizing die and it was perfect. It was a PPU case. They are a wee bit thicker and several gr. heavier than most other cases. I tried chambering a dummy round once the stuck live round was removed and it also stuck. The thing that jammed both rounds was a barely visible piece of grit that I removed with a barrel bore brush dipped in Hoppes #9.
I have a ruptured case removal tool that was made for my No 4 Mk 1* and have used it only once. It’s designed to remove headless cases that remain in the chamber after the bullet has been fired. I’ve since found out that a paint can opener works just as well. I carry both in my range bag.
The Brownells Stuck Case Puller is designed to safely remove live rounds that have become jammed in the receiver. It has a collet that fits around the case head and a slide hammer that provides force that backs the stuck round out of the chamber. It’s a pretty slick tool. I thought about trying to tap the stuck round out with a rod but thought it wasn’t worth the risk.
good to know on the Paint Can opener, I have a few and will toss one in my Range stool
I use L.E. Wilson case gages for every caliber I reload. I check every round I load in my gun room. Surprises are much more pleasant in the confines of one's own home, as opposed to the range/farm/etc.
good to know on the Paint Can opener, I have a few and will toss one in my Range stool
You may have to grind or file the hook it a little so it fits through the neck of your case. The paint can opener was going to be my second choice to pull out the stuck live round if the Brownells puller did not work since the opener’s hook did engage the head groove.
I use L.E. Wilson case gages for every caliber I reload. I check every round I load in my gun room. Surprises are much more pleasant in the confines of one's own home, as opposed to the range/farm/etc.
Probably a good idea to double check the case dimensions. I don’t use a Wilson gauge but I do measure the OAL and weigh each round after reloading to make sure I have the correct length and powder charge as a final QA check. The full length die pulls the case back to its original shape and makes chambering smooth. I also anneal each case every time it’s reloaded.
Darreld Walton
09-24-2019, 07:52
I've run into the same problem from time to time. Most often happens if I neck sized cases and tried to use the rounds in a different rifle than they were originally fired in. These days, for 30-06, 308/7.62 NATO and 223/5.56, I full length size in small base sizer prior to trimming and loading, as I hate segregating ammunition for specific rifles. I use those fairly common rounds in semi-autos, levers, and bolt guns interchangeably, and I'm trying to make life a bit easier (actually, I just don't have the patience for it any more...).
K
I've run into the same problem from time to time. Most often happens if I neck sized cases and tried to use the rounds in a different rifle than they were originally fired in. These days, for 30-06, 308/7.62 NATO and 223/5.56, I full length size in small base sizer prior to trimming and loading, as I hate segregating ammunition for specific rifles. I use those fairly common rounds in semi-autos, levers, and bolt guns interchangeably, and I'm trying to make life a bit easier (actually, I just don't have the patience for it any more...).
I used to neck size and went to full sizing due to the resistance chambering. Cases might not last as long. Never had any jams though.
BTW, just got back from 10 days at Yellowstone. We stayed at a condo in Island Park, ID. There are no words to describe what we saw.
I FL size just about everything
but do drop a round or 3 into the case gauge after I seat the bullet,
esp if something feels off (as in a bit of pressure)
I have had a few rounds get pushed back at the shoulder over the years,
I can usually see or feel those, but the gauge also will catch it
I FL size just about everything
but do drop a round or 3 into the case gauge after I seat the bullet,
esp if something feels off (as in a bit of pressure)
I have had a few rounds get pushed back at the shoulder over the years,
I can usually see or feel those, but the gauge also will catch it
Since you guys use case gauges, I thought I’d give it a try. I just bought a Wilson 30-06 Case Gauge that I found on Amazon. Should be here on Thursday. I figure it’s one more QA step that should be in the reloading process.
for 30.06 I use my Forster Co-Ax press,
don't ask me what sizing die, I cannot remember, but know I have a couple different makes,
seating is down on a very old Videcki seater , it's a floating benchrest of sorts kinda seating die, works very well
Johnny P
09-25-2019, 08:11
Went by the local gun shop and the gunsmith had a Savage rifle in .257 Roberts with a stuck live round in the chamber. The bolt extractor wouldn't pull the round, so the owner picked up a 1/4" wood dowel rod and proceeded to hammer it in. A few licks with the hammer and the dowel rod broke off below the muzzle. The rifle now has a live round as well as a dowel rod hung in it. The rifle owner agreed to share the cost of one of the Brownell pullers, which has a collet that is tightened around the rim of the case, and a sliding weight urges the case back out of the chamber.
Went by the local gun shop and the gunsmith had a Savage rifle in .257 Roberts with a stuck live round in the chamber. The bolt extractor wouldn't pull the round, so the owner picked up a 1/4" wood dowel rod and proceeded to hammer it in. A few licks with the hammer and the dowel rod broke off below the muzzle. The rifle now has a live round as well as a dowel rod hung in it. The rifle owner agreed to share the cost of one of the Brownell pullers, which has a collet that is tightened around the rim of the case, and a sliding weight urges the case back out of the chamber.
That was a lesson learned the hard way.
Trying to remove a jammed round from the muzzle end is definitely a bad idea. If the case doesn’t move, the bullet will be pushed down inside the case and press against the powder creating a pressure problem. Ignition is always a possibility when hammering on a bullet from the front. A wood dowel rod would flair out when it comes in contact with the point of the bullet and will also become stuck.
The Stuck Case Puller is probably one of those tools I bought that’s needed once and never again. Brownells must sell quite a few since they were back ordered.
Johnny P
09-26-2019, 05:33
The gunsmith said in virtually every case the owner has made things worse before he brings it in. Knowing that the dowel rod would flare out didn't even occur to the owner, or that since the extractor wouldn't pull the stuck round that a 1/4" stick certainly wouldn't dislodge the case.
The gunsmith said in virtually every case the owner has made things worse before he brings it in. Knowing that the dowel rod would flare out didn't even occur to the owner, or that since the extractor wouldn't pull the stuck round that a 1/4" stick certainly wouldn't dislodge the case.
The owner would have probably thought twice if he realized the powder charge, if ignited, will take out the point of least resistance. If the barrel is blocked, that means the case will be expelled from the rear and the chamber could fracture depending on what caused the case to become stuck.
Did the Stuck Case Puller work on the 257 round? I’m asking because the puller doesn’t work in every firearm.
Since I went through the experience of a stuck round, I’m now more aware when chambering a round with a bolt action rifle. I will stop pushing the bolt forward if I feel any unusual resistance. In my case, instead of pulling the round out, I pushed harder causing the round to become firmly stuck in the chamber.
Here are some photos of the puller.
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It’s really easy to use. The collet fits around the head of the case and grips it when tightened. The rearward force from the slide hammer is used to back the case out of the chamber. One firm hit and mine was out.
The Brownells video strongly suggests that you remove the stock so that it won’t be damaged. The rifle should be placed in a padded vice so that the sliding hammer can develop enough force to remove the stuck round. Be safe - point the muzzle in a safe direction and don’t stand directly behind the chamber.
Johnny P
10-01-2019, 02:50
Went back by the gun shop today and the gunsmith had received the Brownell puller, and removed the loaded round. The cartridge was a reload, and from all appearances was not originally fired in the rifle. It had been neck-sized only, and when it got back to the heavy web of the case got hung up. Instead of backing it out the owner bumped it forward until it would go no further, and then the bold wouldn't pull it out. Gunsmith said the puller worked great, but spent way more time getting the dowel rod out of the barrel.
I’m glad to hear that the gunsmith was able to extract the round and dowel without harming the bore.
I neck sized for a while when I first began reloading. The cases swelled a lot after a few reloads and became hard to chamber and even harder to extract. That convinced me to use full length dies. I think annealing every time helps to increase case life expectancy.
JOHN COOK
10-02-2019, 05:11
I think annealing every time helps to increase case life expectancy.
I stand to be corrected but I was told to only anneal the neck of the case and once was enough. I assume you are speaking about the neck not he entire case. FWIW
john in SC
http://www.massreloading.com/annealing.html566035]I[/url] stand to be corrected but I was told to only anneal the neck of the case and once was enough. I assume you are speaking about the neck not he entire case. FWIW
john in SC
http://www.massreloading.com/annealing.html
You are correct. I only apply heat to the case necks. The rest of the case should remain hard. The above link describes annealing and recommends doing it every 5th reload. I stand corrected and will no longer anneal after every reload.
I read another forum where several guys were talking about case neck annealing frequency and they were in favor of annealing every time citing accuracy consistency and case longevity. I can’t really complain about accuracy and longevity. I bought the last batch of 30-06 cases in 2015 and some of them have been reloaded 7-8 or more times. No neck splits, ruptured cases or flyers. I haven’t had to scrap any of them. They talked about an annealing machine that sounded interesting although pricey at $500 plus. There may not be minimum or maximum frequency as long as the neck is the only part of the case that’s being heated.
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