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jjrothWA
04-11-2020, 04:01
What should bw the "free length of the spring for a 1884 TD.

Pruchase repacement and measure dthe following:

FP: OAL- 7./16 inch, Total coils 5-1/2 [-2 X 3/8 coils]

EJector Spring: 25/32 -inch, 10-1/2 coils [-2 x 1/2]


is a "slave pin" needed to keep the "receiver block & ejector" in one piece as you slide the hinge pin in from the left side of receiver??

Thanks.

Tom Trevor
04-12-2020, 09:12
Thought someone would reply by now. In checking several springs I find 10.5 coils, .800 LOA, diameter .180. Spindle pin . .738 LOA. Long part goes into spring, round tip to extractor. I am guessing you want to confirm you have the correct parts? I would say you do. I never use a slave pin the first few you do may turn the air blue but after a dozen or so its a piece of cake. Best to place barreled action in a padded set of vise jaws I like to use wood blocks padded with thick HARD felt Hope this helps.

Dick Hosmer
04-12-2020, 11:47
As long as the action is held securely in the manner Tom describes, anyone with normal hand strength should be able to muscle the block into position and wiggle the pin home.

JimF
04-13-2020, 07:51
Since when does the M1884 rifle have a fire-pin spring?

Dick Hosmer
04-13-2020, 09:42
Since when does the M1884 rifle have a fire-pin spring?

I believe it is the ejector assembly that is under discussion.:eusa_wall::1948:

Tom Trevor
04-13-2020, 09:45
I think it was more part description. My guess was FP was the spindle pin. I felt it was only about the extractor so confirmed for him he had the correct spring and spindle pin. I did not think he had any interest in firing pin dimensions or the long gone spring used in early arms. Hope this helps.

JimF
04-13-2020, 07:13
I think it was more part description. My guess was FP was the spindle pin. I felt it was only about the extractor so confirmed for him he had the correct spring and spindle pin. I did not think he had any interest in firing pin dimensions or the long gone spring used in early arms. Hope this helps.

Guess you’re right, Tom . . . .

Goes to show ya’ . . . . .”Words Matter”, eh?

jjrothWA
04-13-2020, 07:36
Gents, Thanks for replies.

Talking about a 1884 stamped trapdoor , both the Firing pin and the ejector are under discussion.
The FP is a early one [1873?] that does not have the later "turned-down" section of the FP, the FP under the inertial impluse of the hammer striking it, after firing the cartridge, the spring pushes the FP towards the rear.
I just need to get the correct FP.

The ejector spring after getting a 1/2 coil removed, allowed the ejector to get into place, after using a pin punch to compress and hold the ejector, then the breech block to drops into position then a #4 drill bit insert from the hammer side and line the three bores to line up, then I can slip the "Hinge pin anad lock assembly to denter and push out the drill bit.
Perating the now swinging breach block as you open the action, the ejector snaps smartly.

Dick Hosmer
04-13-2020, 10:00
Gents, Thanks for replies.

Talking about a 1884 stamped trapdoor , both the Firing pin and the ejector are under discussion.
The FP is a early one [1873?] that does not have the later "turned-down" section of the FP, the FP under the inertial impluse of the hammer striking it, after firing the cartridge, the spring pushes the FP towards the rear.
I just need to get the correct FP.

The ejector spring after getting a 1/2 coil removed, allowed the ejector to get into place, after using a pin punch to compress and hold the ejector, then the breech block to drops into position then a #4 drill bit insert from the hammer side and line the three bores to line up, then I can slip the "Hinge pin anad lock assembly to denter and push out the drill bit.
Perating the now swinging breach block as you open the action, the ejector snaps smartly.



From the above statement it appears that you seem to have the firing pin design sequence backwards. It is the early 1873 which has the FP spring and "turned down" section; the pin for the 1884 lacks this feature. Also, there is NO inertia situation whatsoever - the pin is longer than the block, and its does not rebound after firing. The very heavy pressure from the powerful mainspring and hammer keeps it forward, buried in the exploded primer, until the case is extracted.

The spring was put there to prevent a slam-fire while loading in the event that the pin had rusted to the block. The theory was good but did not work out in practice. The springs broke, and the sharp shoulder of the spring cut produced stress fractures, resulting in broken/jammed pins. This was so bad that they went for several years without a fix for the potential of a slam-fire (perhaps with fingers crossed, but, that's how it was). The situation was really not resolved until the adoption of the "brass" (aluminum-bronze) pin in 1888 - the only good thing to come from the trial of the 100 positive-cam rifles that year.

As to the ejector - if it works smartly, you have achieved your goal! The installation process however (and you are NOT alone in your apprehension!) is one of the biggest mountain-out-of-a-mole-hill facets of trapdoor lore. ANYONE should be able to assemble the parts with their bare hands only, and without using any sort of slave pin. It is a knack, but once you've done it a few times you'll wonder what on earth you were worried about.

Good shooting, be safe , and have fun!