AR15 carbon fouling removal

[Major Tom]

I've put several hundred rounds thru my DPMS Panther AR15. I always clean the rifle after every range session. I noticed there is carbon buildup around the bolt and other places. It is really hard/crusty. Some of it I can scrape off, but not all of it. What is recommended to get all parts free of carbon buildup?

[lyman]

keep the bolt and carrier wet,
not dripping, but well lubed helps the cleanup,


if you cannot scrap it off now, soak it a day or so, (kero works well, )

[clintonhater]

What is recommended to get all parts free of carbon buildup?

Problem with carbon is that nothing will soften it that doesn't also attack the steel. I think scraping or brushing may be the only way.

[clintonhater]

\


soak it a day or so, (kero works well, )

Haven't tried that, but ordinary gun cleaning solvents have no effect. Had to use a steel wire brush in an electric drill to get it out of the chambers of a revolver I shoot a lot.

[m1ashooter]

I scrap mine with an Otis Bone Tool

[barretcreek]

Ultra sonic can break down carbon deposits. We had U/S the size of bath tubs for removing carbon from big diesel cylinder heads and injectors.

[RH Scott]

Not that big of a deal or problem. I use a simple green nylon scouring pad. The Brits turned me on to them years ago as they were issued for cleaning the SA80

[clintonhater]

Not that big of a deal or problem. I use a simple green nylon scouring pad.

Depends on where it's located & how long it's been there. The carbon ring that forms just ahead of the chamber on .22RFs is hard to remove without methods that risk damage to chamber or leade. Brass brushes just skate over it. Ordinary sport shooters needn't obsess over it, but when BR level accuracy is the goal, it's a problem.

[lyman]

Haven't tried that, but ordinary gun cleaning solvents have no effect. Had to use a steel wire brush in an electric drill to get it out of the chambers of a revolver I shoot a lot.

did you try one of those lewis lead removers in your revolver,

they also work fairly well,

[clintonhater]

did you try one of those lewis lead removers in your revolver,



They work GREAT, but are only made for larger calibers.

[barretcreek]

Isn't the Lewis lead remover based on a copper/brass screen? Should be able to jury rig something using a bore mop and screen.

[lyman]

Isn't the Lewis lead remover based on a copper/brass screen? Should be able to jury rig something using a bore mop and screen.

yes,

[clintonhater]

Isn't the Lewis lead remover based on a copper/brass screen? Should be able to jury rig something using a bore mop and screen.

Maybe, but the screen needs to be really tight to be effective; it's attached with a screw on the Lewis jag. Wrapping steel wool around a brass brush is something I've also done. Remember, a carbon deposit is harder than brass or lead.

[togor]

It turns out KG-12, nominally for copper fouling, is good on carbon on gas pistons (eg Garand) and at the hard to reach back of AR bolt carriers. Wet Q-tip scrub, wear gloves, as it is water based but apparently a little bit nasty.

[Former Cav]

buy the Sinclair decarb tool
https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/cleaning-rods-amp-accessories/cleaning-tools/ar-15-carbon-scraper-prod35018.aspx

[BlitzKrieg]

I have been using the AR / M16 system on issue weapons since 1967 ..XM16E1, M16a1, XM 177E1, XM177E2, M16a2, M4, M16A4 and cleaning was always a PITA. That said, I'll just say the Otis Bone tool is worthless and save your money. The main event that is a pain is the BCG and bolt. Patches and hard work with ram rod section can dig out impacted carbon inside BCG and solvents / CLP are of some help but its still a matter of digging carbon out. THe tail of the bolt where carbon is diamond hard and seared onto tail. My solution was to take my penknife or KaBar and scrap carbon off. It will chip off ..reluctantly so but it will.

I still experience the same dirty experience cleaning the AR system and have never found a perfect solution to making carbon flush off. Some of the modern carbon cleaners are water based...some not much more than perfumed Simple Green and they seem to work but these are not the type of cleaning approaches one can use in the field or combat. THey may be the answer to civilians wanting a short cut but I'd caution to make sure you dry any parts cleaned with water based cleaner ...air blow them dry would suffice.

I still run my bolts wet and internal parts are wet with CLP, In Viet Nam we used LSA..medium weight. These products always performed all functions I wanted of a lube or cleaner then. At times, we used diesel fuel to clean out our weapons with good results but that was only the few times we stopped by a fire base or were landed for re transferring onto other aircraft for a mission. Any airfield or fire base , diesel could be found.

I'd never consider diesel today, and anyhow, as a civilian I don't run the volumes of fire out of my AR's that we had to do on combat operations, our weapons don't get outrageously filthy as they did back in Viet Nam.

I hear others at times comment sonic cleaning machines do BCG and bolt cleaning superbly, I do not doubt that but again...water based parts type cleaners have the parts wet and thus care of getting them dry and lubed.

Closing: just work and PITA . I know of no wonderful solution to cleaning the BCG / Bolt of M16. Certainly the BONE tool is $25 worth not buying but do learn the hard way, I certainly did. I wanted to believe and got skunked with BONE tool. Or you might say I got BONED.

[lyman]

I have been using the AR / M16 system on issue weapons since 1967 ..XM16E1, M16a1, XM 177E1, XM177E2, M16a2, M4, M16A4 and cleaning was always a PITA. That said, I'll just say the Otis Bone tool is worthless and save your money. The main event that is a pain is the BCG and bolt. Patches and hard work with ram rod section can dig out impacted carbon inside BCG and solvents / CLP are of some help but its still a matter of digging carbon out. THe tail of the bolt where carbon is diamond hard and seared onto tail. My solution was to take my penknife or KaBar and scrap carbon off. It will chip off ..reluctantly so but it will.

I still experience the same dirty experience cleaning the AR system and have never found a perfect solution to making carbon flush off. Some of the modern carbon cleaners are water based...some not much more than perfumed Simple Green and they seem to work but these are not the type of cleaning approaches one can use in the field or combat. THey may be the answer to civilians wanting a short cut but I'd caution to make sure you dry any parts cleaned with water based cleaner ...air blow them dry would suffice.

I still run my bolts wet and internal parts are wet with CLP, In Viet Nam we used LSA..medium weight. These products always performed all functions I wanted of a lube or cleaner then. At times, we used diesel fuel to clean out our weapons with good results but that was only the few times we stopped by a fire base or were landed for re transferring onto other aircraft for a mission. Any airfield or fire base , diesel could be found.

I'd never consider diesel today, and anyhow, as a civilian I don't run the volumes of fire out of my AR's that we had to do on combat operations, our weapons don't get outrageously filthy as they did back in Viet Nam.

I hear others at times comment sonic cleaning machines do BCG and bolt cleaning superbly, I do not doubt that but again...water based parts type cleaners have the parts wet and thus care of getting them dry and lubed.

Closing: just work and PITA . I know of no wonderful solution to cleaning the BCG / Bolt of M16. Certainly the BONE tool is $25 worth not buying but do learn the hard way, I certainly did. I wanted to believe and got skunked with BONE tool. Or you might say I got BONED.



when I was competing in Service Rifle, I cleaned my BCG once a year,

yep, 1 time, as far as a break down and clean,


depending on the month, I shot between 200-500 rounds,

I would pull the BCG and give a good wipedown with a rag, did not take it apart, and also kept it wet , but not soaking


one of the better tools I found to clean it up that once a year, was a new or dressed up brass drift,

as long as the edges were relatively sharp, it would scrape off any thing that was stuck,

helped to that my BCG was a USGI Chrome plated one,

[Sunray]

As daft as it sounds, E-Z Off(that is made to remove carbon) does a good job on rifle parts. You must take care about what the part is sitting on as E-Z Off will lift paint like nobody's business. Or you can just soak the parts in regular bore solvent. It's made to clean carbon off metal too.

[lyman]

As daft as it sounds, E-Z Off(that is made to remove carbon) does a good job on rifle parts. You must take care about what the part is sitting on as E-Z Off will lift paint like nobody's business. Or you can just soak the parts in regular bore solvent. It's made to clean carbon off metal too.

good point,


at one point in time, the Germans, US and Commonwealth countries all used cans to soak parts in when cleaning the MG's,

mostly for the botl group, and the muzzle devices , (I've seen and sold several for the Vickers type, as well as the 34/42's )

simple heavy metal can with lid, put the part in w/ cleaner (oil or petro)screw tight and let set,

surprised some one has not revisited that for a good detailed cleaning

[Griff Murphey]

When I’d return my rifle to the armory the corporal or sergeant in charge loved to bust me as a Navy Lt for that. I don’t do a lot of rapid rapid fire but I never noticed much of a problem with it - wire brush and Hoppe’s.

[Liam]

Used to make scrapers out of sections of wire hanger. Flatted one end with a hammer. Now, there is a specific tool for the job:
https://www.realavid.com/product/the-ar15-scraper/

[BlitzKrieg]

Does that tool work well for you ? I bought the Otis Bone Tool and ....I got boned. Ain't worth a hoot.

[togor]

In my experience the tools get the worst of it off, but solvents are needed for the rest of it. So depending on how much fouling your BCGs get, the tool may or may not help out.