Springfield Model 1873 SRS Check SN: 73920

[Dick Hosmer]

Please make sure that the hammer is in the cocked position when removing the lock so it won't chip the stock around the lock plate. Otherwise it will chip the top of the stock above the lock plate because of interference of the inside parts with the stock.

Jim O

Actually the chip occurs below the lock plate, but the point made is VERY valid. Half-cock will work as well, but full-cock is safer.

[huntylterer]

For my money, you can do no better than Al Frasca?s website . . . .and his books.
So I believe you are on the right track with trapdoorcollector.com.

I decided to get one of the first run overprint books from Jim Hill. Thanks for the recommendation!

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Noted your comment over on the TD collectors site - tried to reply there but the limited functionality is frustrating and on top of that my messages kept getting kicked back as spam for reasons unclear to me...

Anyway, re: RDR dates, I have a 512K serial M88 from 1891 with the RDR stamp.

Thank you for this! It provides me with a frame of reference that is quite large. I agree that this forum is easier to use.

[huntylterer]

Since the rifle had for its life been unaltered for the most part indicates state militia service. Had it been regular army it would have received the current sight installed and if worn would have been replaced in service. You can be sure whatever ill treatment it has received came after it left the state control. CONN usually means it was issued to a unit in Connecticut. 32 would have been a rack or soldier number. Checking on line the fourth Ill vol. infantry did serve in Cuba during the Spanish American war. Remove the lock and you can see what has happened to the tumbler to cause the safety features to not function Loosen the tang screw to relieve pressure on the wood loosen the lock screws and push on each a bit to ease the lock out of the mortice. You might put a little lemon oil around the lock to half preserve the wood and its also good for the stock in general. Post a picture of the lock internals so we can see what happened to it.

Tom, alfajm, and Dick thank you for your tips on taking off the lock plate. I see exactly where the stock was chipped from this before at center bottom. Here are some photos:

IMG_1360.jpg
The Stock

IMG_1361.jpg
Lockplate Overview. It's obvious some grinding has been done on the tumbler and possibly even some welding. The fragment of metal you see below the lockplate was laying inside the stock when I removed the lockplate.

IMG_1363.jpg

IMG_1364.jpg

IMG_1365.jpg
You can see that the arm that interacts with the trigger has been ground down as well. I would LOVE to hear everyone's thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Hunter

[huntylterer]

This is a follow-up to my first set of pictures of the lockplate internals. This set of photos is with the hammer closed.

IMG_1367.jpg
The bit welded on to the tumbler is where I believe the proken piece of metal came. I guess this is a catch for the hammer at the full closed position. Seems that when it was fired it broke.

IMG_1368.jpg
Closed lockplate overview

IMG_1369.jpg
You can see here the spring was ground as well.

IMG_1365.jpg
[I]In this photo, I am highlighting the grinding matchmarks on the trigger arm. It appears the trigger was only ground to get the lockplate back in in the closed position from my best guess. The trigger has about 1/8" of play when measured from the bottom "tip" of the trigger. Is that normal?/I]

[JimF]

Appears you need a “new” tumbler.
The mainspring may be OK, even with the grind mark.
Check with Al Frasca at trapdoorcollector.com for parts.
A GREAT guy to deal with!

[alfajim]

Being as you need a new "replacement" tumbler if Al doesn't have one look on E-Bay there is a lot of trapdoor parts and stuff on there all the time and prices are generally reasonable.
It appears from the grinding on the main spring and sear that it was done to eliminate the interference problem.
You may want to think about replacing the tumbler and sear to the three click version for safety reasons the middle click sets hammer open not on full cock for loading ease.
The 45-70 Springfield Joe Power book it excellent for info history on these guns, and Spence Wolfs book Loading the original 45-70 is very very good on loading and shooting these guns and also covers the reloading equipment required.

Goode luck happy shooting
Jim O

[Dick Hosmer]

The sear and the tumbler need to match!