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Posted By: Gus Fisher
Date: Monday, 8 May 2000, at 9:29 a.m.
Again, this tip will not have anything that would permanently change the configuration of the pistol. Just save any parts you replace and you can put it back into original condition.
First thing is the thumb safety. Some folks can't seem to hit the little knob on the issue safety. One big improvement on the series 70 and later Colts is the longer knob on the safety. Since a lot of folks change the safety to an extended version, those folks and/or their gunsmiths have great used ones in stock. Be sure to test the operation of the safety as per the tip on checking safety features. Note: by the time I got done trimming down an extended safety on my pistol so it wouldn't snag clothing, it wasn't much bigger than the series 70 safety.
Some folks like the "no gunsmithing" extended grip safety. Most of must be fitted, as they are not a drop in item, no matter what many claim. I shot a lot of .45's over the years and never had a problem with the hammer pinching the web of my hand even though I have a BIG paw. Of course, I'm talking about using the longer A1 grip safety. If you have the short 1911 grip safety, you may want to install the longer 1911A1 grip safety for shooting. You can always change it back later.
The WWII rounded triggers are very short. With the size of my paw, I sometimes had a hard time getting a uniform finger position on it. The good news is there were two other kinds of issue triggers. There was a more "squared off" trigger that is a little longer. Many folks, even with small hands, like it much better than the short rounded triggers. Also, the M1911 trigger was much longer. If you have a big paw like mine, it is a real help. The beauty of using original triggers is that they usually don't require much if any fitting, they aren't too heavy so they won't upset the balance of sear to hammer, and there is no set screw to screw down too far and REALLY mess up the sear and hammer engagement surfaces. Except for the longer M1911 triggers, they are also inexpensive.
The next thing in this tip is the mainspring housing. M1911 housings were flat and the M1911A1 housings are arched. I've seen a LOT of folks automatically change the mainspring housing as it "feels" better in many shooters' hands. However, there is a problem many folks don't realize.
When you change the mainspring housing, you change the position of how the pistol naturally sits in your hand. It won't "point" the same as the pistol barrel moves up a little with the arched housing and down for the flat housing. Also, after firing 625 hardball rounds a day for two weeks during a magazine test, I found the arched housing was more comfortable to shoot and got back on target much quicker for me. So the proof for each individual is how it works, during shooting, for that person. Fortunately, mainspring housings aren't that expensive and they aren't that difficult to change. You can buy an inexpensive replacement and try both styles at the range to see which one is better for you.
If you don't like the narrow M1911A1 hammer, you can replace it with the wider M1911 hammer. It will almost certainly change the trigger pull a bit, though. However, original M1911 hammers are getting expensive.
There are cast steel "repro" M1911 hammers and mainspring housings available today at good prices. The mainspring housings work pretty good, but some are a little loose in the fit of the rails in the receiver. The hammers often have to have some work done to them, so they aren't as good of a bargain. If you stick to original parts, in good condition, you should have very few fitting problems. HTH
Date: Monday, 8 May 2000, at 9:29 a.m.
Again, this tip will not have anything that would permanently change the configuration of the pistol. Just save any parts you replace and you can put it back into original condition.
First thing is the thumb safety. Some folks can't seem to hit the little knob on the issue safety. One big improvement on the series 70 and later Colts is the longer knob on the safety. Since a lot of folks change the safety to an extended version, those folks and/or their gunsmiths have great used ones in stock. Be sure to test the operation of the safety as per the tip on checking safety features. Note: by the time I got done trimming down an extended safety on my pistol so it wouldn't snag clothing, it wasn't much bigger than the series 70 safety.
Some folks like the "no gunsmithing" extended grip safety. Most of must be fitted, as they are not a drop in item, no matter what many claim. I shot a lot of .45's over the years and never had a problem with the hammer pinching the web of my hand even though I have a BIG paw. Of course, I'm talking about using the longer A1 grip safety. If you have the short 1911 grip safety, you may want to install the longer 1911A1 grip safety for shooting. You can always change it back later.
The WWII rounded triggers are very short. With the size of my paw, I sometimes had a hard time getting a uniform finger position on it. The good news is there were two other kinds of issue triggers. There was a more "squared off" trigger that is a little longer. Many folks, even with small hands, like it much better than the short rounded triggers. Also, the M1911 trigger was much longer. If you have a big paw like mine, it is a real help. The beauty of using original triggers is that they usually don't require much if any fitting, they aren't too heavy so they won't upset the balance of sear to hammer, and there is no set screw to screw down too far and REALLY mess up the sear and hammer engagement surfaces. Except for the longer M1911 triggers, they are also inexpensive.
The next thing in this tip is the mainspring housing. M1911 housings were flat and the M1911A1 housings are arched. I've seen a LOT of folks automatically change the mainspring housing as it "feels" better in many shooters' hands. However, there is a problem many folks don't realize.
When you change the mainspring housing, you change the position of how the pistol naturally sits in your hand. It won't "point" the same as the pistol barrel moves up a little with the arched housing and down for the flat housing. Also, after firing 625 hardball rounds a day for two weeks during a magazine test, I found the arched housing was more comfortable to shoot and got back on target much quicker for me. So the proof for each individual is how it works, during shooting, for that person. Fortunately, mainspring housings aren't that expensive and they aren't that difficult to change. You can buy an inexpensive replacement and try both styles at the range to see which one is better for you.
If you don't like the narrow M1911A1 hammer, you can replace it with the wider M1911 hammer. It will almost certainly change the trigger pull a bit, though. However, original M1911 hammers are getting expensive.
There are cast steel "repro" M1911 hammers and mainspring housings available today at good prices. The mainspring housings work pretty good, but some are a little loose in the fit of the rails in the receiver. The hammers often have to have some work done to them, so they aren't as good of a bargain. If you stick to original parts, in good condition, you should have very few fitting problems. HTH