Rusty Rem-Rand

[Tuna]

And just where do you think the name Remington came from? It came from E. Remington and Sons. They started a company making type writers
and it was on its own by 1886. Then in 1927 it merged with Rand. Remington still had their owner interests in the company till about the mid 50's when the company was finally sold off.

[S.A. Boggs]

Will be curious to know if the Evapo-Rust affects the phosphate finish.

It did, down to the metal it is pretty clean. I went ahead rinsed the frame in water and then 0000 wool on the rusty parts, not bad some pitted areas. I put the frame back in for another 12 hour bath and then repeat the scrubbing. To dry I am going to use the air dryer that I use for brass.
Now to find out which park the Rem-Rand used in 1945, any ideas?
Sam

[Johnny P]

Remington Rand (1927–1955) was an early American business machines manufacturer, best known originally as a typewriter manufacturer and in a later incarnation as the manufacturer of the UNIVAC line of mainframe computers.

The Remington Rand company was formed in 1927 by the merger of the Remington Typewriter Company and the Rand Kardex Company.

The Remington Rand Model 1911A1 was manufactured in the Syracuse plant, which had previously been used to manufacture typewriters. One of the nicknames for the Remington Rand pistol was "Typewriter Gun".

The General Shaver Company was a subsidiary of Remington Rand that made electric shavers, which made field replacement magazines during WWII identified by a seam down the back and a G on top of the toe.

[ignats]

I recall office/admin types being referred to as Remington Raiders when I was in the service.

[S.A. Boggs]

I just took the receiver out of the brass dryer and I was wrong on the removal of the original finish, it is still there. Discoloration only appears under the plastic grips and some pitting on the front. I doubt that I will refinish it maybe touch up the pits with a little Brownell's cold blue and then card the pitted area for protection from rust.
Sam

[Johnny P]

Now to find out which park the Rem-Rand used in 1945, any ideas?
Sam

Up until late production in 1945 the phosphate finish was the common slightly gray/green finish, but at about the 2.4 million range the finish became a light gray.

[S.A. Boggs]

Up until late production in 1945 the phosphate finish was the common slightly gray/green finish, but at about the 2.4 million range the finish became a light gray.

Sounds like the color of me during my former chemo treatment!
Sam

[lyman]

if you already have the parkerizing solution, you can touch it up with it as well,

just heat up the solution and using a qtip or similar, dab it on the spot,

sometimes cold blue will leave the spot 'bright' vs parked,

takes a bit to card that down and redo, card down etc to get it to look right

[S.A. Boggs]

if you already have the parkerizing solution, you can touch it up with it as well,

just heat up the solution and using a qtip or similar, dab it on the spot,

sometimes cold blue will leave the spot 'bright' vs parked,

takes a bit to card that down and redo, card down etc to get it to look right

What can I do about the pits? I had thought about using JB Weld to fill some of them and then sand it down. I like your idea!
Sam

[Johnny P]

Anything used to fill pits won't take the phosphate finish. Would look better just finished over rather than trying to fill them.

[lyman]

Anything used to fill pits won't take the phosphate finish. Would look better just finished over rather than trying to fill them.

this, unless you are a really good TIG welder,,,

if they are not too bad you may be able to use a more coarse sandblast media, but be careful with that,

a friend redid a poorly treated Colt 1903 using a good draw file,

he worked it carefully, you can hardly tell it was abused in a previous life once it was reblued,

[Johnny P]

J. B. Weld was mentioned as a filler for the pits. You can fill the pitted area by welding over, but it will have to be dressed down, and then sandblasted to match the resto of the pistol, and then will probably come out a different color under the phosphate. The ends of the slide were hardened, and were normally darker than the rest of the pistol.

[jjrothWA]

Try painting on the rusty surface with a light coat od turpentine and rub with bronze wool or brass brush. might have to lightlypolish with a FINE wire wheel/

[lyman]

Try painting on the rusty surface with a light coat od turpentine and rub with bronze wool or brass brush. might have to lightlypolish with a FINE wire wheel/

I've had good luck on some by soaking in kerosene, then using a brass or bronze bore brush to give the area a good scrub

[Gun Smoke]

If the gun were mine I would take the exposed parts to a machine shop and have them lightly bead blasted (if you don't have access to a bead blaster) then re-park in the light gray finish.

If the pitting is light (which it doesn't sound that way) you could perhaps use your tumbler to clean the parts then re-park.

Being a shootable Remington Rand it will always have some value but mostly it will be a shooter from here on out regardless.