Installing a front sight on old original Govt. Mdl. 1911

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  • duke133
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2009
    • 239

    #1

    Installing a front sight on old original Govt. Mdl. 1911

    I have to install a front sight on an Old original Government Model 1911. The original is missing. The post on the sight sticks down into the barrel channel. I need to find out the best method of cutting the post down and then, how do I attach the sight permanently to the slide? A friend told me silver solder will not work. I do not want to mar the finish on the slide. Anyone been through this before?
    Thanks.
  • Scott Wilson
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2009
    • 507

    #2
    The front sights were designed to be staked onto the slide. You will need a staking tool and the proper vise to do the job correctly. Once the sight is tightly staked you carefully grind off any excess metal. Try looking at YouTube, there are an amazing number of really good instructional videos there that are related to pistolsmithing.

    Comment

    • Richard H Brown Jr
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2010
      • 445

      #3
      http://www.restigouchegunclub.com/Fi...Kuhnhausen.pdf Download and use a .pdf reader to go to page 37, that shows

      how to remove the old one and install a new front sight.

      RHB

      Do you know what gun parts are made from recycled farm machinery?

      Extractors of course. 8*)

      Comment

      • duke133
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2009
        • 239

        #4
        Guys,
        Thanks for the info. I'll check out the link and the youtube stuff to see if I can do it myself without screwing up the slide. I don't have to remove the old one, it's just gone and the hole is clear of anything that would indicate the sight was broken off.
        Last edited by duke133; 06-09-2013, 08:06. Reason: forgot additional comment

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        • Guamsst
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2010
          • 9753

          #5
          Check out my post RE: How does bubba install a front sight. Good info on the basic process. Since yours is not a modern econo gun you may want to pay a gunsmith (find a competent one).
          I own firearms not to fight against my government, but to ensure I will not have to.

          Comment

          • duke133
            Senior Member
            • Dec 2009
            • 239

            #6
            Guamsst,
            Those pics on your post did clarify a bit for me. After reading Kuhnhausen's info from RHB and checking out some of the Utube stuff Scott referred to I should be able to do this. I have the necessary items to both hold the slide in place without scratching it along with the blade. I do need a few attachments for my Dremel which shouldn't be hard to find locally. This pistol was given to a smith years ago by my Dad for some work. I guess somewhere after that the sight fell out. The hole is conical when I look at it VERY closely on the inside of the slide with he widest part of the cone on the inside. I'll clean it up first, very gently then see what I have. If it appears I cannot do this I will seek out a smith, just not the one Dad used back in the 90's if he's still in business.

            Comment

            • Guamsst
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2010
              • 9753

              #7
              In the end mine was ever so slightly loose. It was very hard to keep it all in place and straight working with the little vice on my coffee table. I put a glob of epoxy on it and it seems solid enough. Silver solder after peening it will not be GI correct....but it should be some unseen extra security.....or just epoxy it too.....or don't...LOL
              I own firearms not to fight against my government, but to ensure I will not have to.

              Comment

              • duke133
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2009
                • 239

                #8
                Guamsst,
                I was heading out yesterday to pick up some extras for my Dremel but my wife told me not to since Father's Day is coming up. Guess I'm getting a gift card since she would have no idea what I need. I anticipate trying to do this in about a week. Right now it's sitting in pieces on my bench. I'll let you know how it turns out. I was told instead of epoxy use Locktite Red. Any thoughts on that? A Marine now a jeweler friend told me silver solder wouldn't hold up. He said it's too soft.
                Last edited by duke133; 06-12-2013, 08:02. Reason: additional thought

                Comment

                • Col. Colt
                  Senior Member
                  • Jul 2010
                  • 928

                  #9
                  Gentlemen, the very best and permanent way to install a conventional 1911 front sight (Learned from Jim West of Wild West Guns years ago) is to:
                  1.) After removing the existing front sight (many just twist off a loose one with ViceGrips) clean and degrease the area. Using a Dremel type tool with a ball shaped cutter, create a "divot" or "hemisphere" directly around/under the sight slot. This makes a place to create a large enough "rivet' to hold permanently.
                  2.) Clean and degrease the area and parts. If you wish to use Red Loctite, have it ready, although done correctly it is unnecessary.
                  3.) USE THE RIGHT TOOL - OR TAKE IT TO A GUNSMITH THAT HAS ONE - the TA03 Trijicon 1911 Front Sight Swaging tool, or the very similar one by Miniture Machine, uses a wedge forced through the tool against the front sight "tail" to swage a "rivet" into the opening you created with step one. It will NOT come loose - even on a 10MM!
                  Anything less is not a solid, mechanical connection between the two parts. Could a GI style tool/punch work? Of course, but this is even more certain. If you need loctite, it isn't right!

                  Done this way, the original design front sight with the large tenon is superior to a dovetailed sight. CC
                  Last edited by Col. Colt; 06-12-2013, 09:02.
                  Colt, Glock and Remington factory trained LE Armorer
                  LE Trained Firearms Instructor

                  Comment

                  • Bill E
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2009
                    • 434

                    #10
                    Thanks much for the info on the Trijicon tool.

                    Comment

                    • ignats
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2009
                      • 241

                      #11
                      Originally posted by duke133
                      Guamsst,
                      A Marine now a jeweler friend told me silver solder wouldn't hold up. He said it's too soft.
                      That's not true. Silver solder was and still is used to attach front sights to barrels. A gunsmith machinist used to do it all the time however he warned me it will discolor the bluing on the slide due to the heat necessary to melt the solder. Silver solder melts somewhere over 800 degrees F while the solder used in electronics is somewhere around 370 degree F. The large front sights on the Springfield Armory National Match pistols were silver soldered. Trust me, it is not too soft.

                      I've had front sights flip off the slide of my Colt National Match while shooting in matches. While a properly staked tenon front sight will normally stay in place under normal use (whatever that is) eventually they do become loose. The GI front sights are fairly light compared to some of the heavier target sights. The inertia exerted on those type sights will cause them to come loose at some point in time. I notice a number of smiths are now cutting dovetails into the front of the slide and mounting sights that way. Personally, I don't care for the looks of that, but it is one solution.
                      Last edited by ignats; 06-12-2013, 06:04.

                      Comment

                      • Johnny P
                        Senior Member
                        • Aug 2009
                        • 6260

                        #12
                        Agree on the silver solder holding. You will just about tear the sight up before you pull it loose from the silver solder. The only down side is the amount of heat required to get the silver solder to take. Plain old 50/50 plumber's solder won't work, but the silver solder is plenty strong.

                        Comment

                        • ignats
                          Senior Member
                          • Sep 2009
                          • 241

                          #13
                          Weren't all the Colt Single Action revolvers, New Service etc front sights silver soldered?

                          Comment

                          • Col. Colt
                            Senior Member
                            • Jul 2010
                            • 928

                            #14
                            Mr. West, who showed me the technique I listed on my 10MM Gold Cup, assured me that he had done many with the Miniture Machine/Trijicon tool and had NEVER had one come loose after doing them exactly in this way. CC
                            Colt, Glock and Remington factory trained LE Armorer
                            LE Trained Firearms Instructor

                            Comment

                            • Richard H Brown Jr
                              Senior Member
                              • Jan 2010
                              • 445

                              #15
                              Front Sight Tool



                              Shop gunsmithing tools (564) at Brownells, including bench blocks, hammer & punch sets, screwdrivers, and tool kits for firearm maintenance and repairs.


                              and the book .pdf

                              You might want to see if sarco site has cut up slides to practice on.

                              As for securing the slide in a vise. (HEAVY) bolted down to a solid workbench. blocks of wood between the slide metal and the vise jaws. and maybe some cloth to prevent scratches. and maybe a small block to fit inside the rear of the slide so you don't crush the slide when you tighten it down.

                              NOT an armorer, and have never done anything except replace springs and screws on my ww2 beater Remington 1911a1.

                              RHB

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