If the 1905 were mine I would try and remove the grips and then give the metal a LIGHT scrubbing with a green pad soaked in oil. You really have to work at it to ruin patina or any remaining finish with a fine green scrubby or fine bronze wool soaked in oil. Keep the oil of the wood if you can't remove them. Or if you are willing to work at it, build an apparatus to remove any rust by electrolysis. (Check youtube).
Cleaning/Refurbishing Bayonets
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I wouldn't use electrolysis unless he could make a fixture to suspend the blade point down, but not immerse the factory bluing.If the 1905 were mine I would try and remove the grips and then give the metal a LIGHT scrubbing with a green pad soaked in oil. You really have to work at it to ruin patina or any remaining finish with a fine green scrubby or fine bronze wool soaked in oil. Keep the oil of the wood if you can't remove them. Or if you are willing to work at it, build an apparatus to remove any rust by electrolysis. (Check youtube).Phillip McGregor (OFC)
"I am neither a fire arms nor a ballistics expert, but I was a combat infantry officer in the Great War, and I absolutely know that the bullet from an infantry rifle has to be able to shoot through things." General Douglas MacArthurComment
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US M1905s and their variants take down easily. I understand your being hesitant to do so if you've never done it before. A drop of penetrating oil (Kroil is my favorite) on the head and exposed threads on the tip will loosed it. Make certain you use a screwdriver st from the hilt and grip frame using a piece of denim or other coarse cloth like burlap.When I hear a politician use the words "common sense" in relation to firearms, I prepare myself to hear something really stupid.Comment
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I actually ordered some gun oil and very fine bronze wool today to try and clean the rust off myself. I'm going to carefully try it on a portion of the crossbar and if I do okay, I'll probably try and disassemble it to do the whole bayonet.Comment
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I just spent the last 6 or 7 hours working on this. I used some very fine steel wool lightly soaked in gun oil very lightly to know off the high rust. Then I used first a green scrubby pad and then fine bronze wool with gun oil. Whoever said (not here but at another site) that bronze wool does leave a residue was lying...
Despite the comment from jaie5070 about it being hard to hurt the patina, I think I might have. I think I might have confused rust with patina and scrubbed too much/too hard. But I think it looks a lot better than the rust.
Another friend said I ought to use a bronze brush on my Dremel to get even more off. But this scares me.
Where do you guys think I'm at? Too much? Not enough?
Also. I've read different things about putting a light coat of gun oil on everything before I reassemble it. Should I?
Here are a bunch of pictures over the next couple of posts.
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Here's the scabbard. It had what looked like rust at the top and bottom on the non-leather parts. I cleaned it with soap, hot water and a green scrubby. Then a little gun oil and bronze wool. I figured out when all the rust/dirt was off it the top and bottom are actually a metal covered by a leather paint. I started seeing where some of the paint came off (hence the rust).
I used a leather cream on it after it dried.
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That scabbard is for a 1917 Enfield bayo---not a '03 bayo.Here's the scabbard. It had what looked like rust at the top and bottom on the non-leather parts. I cleaned it with soap, hot water and a green scrubby. Then a little gun oil and bronze wool. I figured out when all the rust/dirt was off it the top and bottom are actually a metal covered by a leather paint. I started seeing where some of the paint came off (hence the rust).
I used a leather cream on it after it dried.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]35365[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]35366[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]35367[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]35368[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]35369[/ATTACH]You can never go home again.Comment

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