Krag bolt

[Battis]

I have 2 Krags - an 1896 carbine that I've fired, and a recently acquired 1898 rifle that I have not fired yet.
I've inspected the bolt lugs on each through a magnifier and cannot see any problems, but, after reading and researching quite a bit, the best advice is to have the bolt inspected by a gunsmith or machinist to check for hairline cracks.
On Gunbroker and ebay, there's a seller selling new old stock bolts, never used, for around $60 shipped. So, does it make any sense just to buy a new bolt instead of paying for the original bolt(s) to be checked? If they are cracked, I'd have to buy a new bolt anyways.
And, would a new, unused bolt just drop in without fitting?
I shoot mild reloads using Red Dot.
Thanks.

[dave]

Always the headspace issue with a different bolt. I would not worry about it. Gunsmith??? Most are just not experts and doubt they would do anything but look at it like you did. Just cause he calls himself a gunsmith means little, most are just hacks who can run a lathe and milling machine!

[Battis]

I was thinking the same thing about gunsmiths in my area (if I could find one). I'll keep the loads low and keep checking the lugs.

[Dick Hosmer]

Not to say that you should not be aware of what is going on, but, rimmed cartridges are usually nowhere near as sensitive to headspace issues as are rimless ones, simply because there is so much less room for error.

By segregating your fired cases by which gun they were fired in, and/or very slightly tweaking your sizing die set-up, you should be able to produce rounds that are properly supported in the chamber, and still fit nice and snug. If you are fortunate, you may even find a setting that works well for both of your Krags.

The archives here have at least two postings of an attempt to blow up a Krag. They finally succeeded, using a horrendous load, but the zinger is that the locking lug had been removed prior to the test, so "headspace" was never an issue - the safety lug performed as intended, and then some.

[kragluver]

What Dick said...

The Krag has three lugs. Two are safety lugs - the guide rib and the bolt handle.

Also - the best way to check for a cracked lug is: 1) completely disassemble the bolt; 2) dip the bolt head/lug into gasoline; 3) wipe dry; 4) check to see if any gasoline "weeps" out of a hairline crack after you've dried the bolthead. If not, you are good to go. 5) Re-assemble the bolt, oil and shoot.

[Battis]

Thanks for the info. I'll test it with gasoline but it looks pretty good.

[dave]

I would have to disagree with Dick on headspace. A rimmed cartridge headspaces on the rim, not the chamber shoulder as rimless cart. do. If that space between bolt face and barrel face is too great you have excessive headspace and the cart. can slam back against the bolt and also cause the area in front of rim to be unsupported and have a head separation, at least a bulge. Not likely a different bolt would be that far off, but these rifle were made back when specs were not held as close as today. The case forward will just fire form to the chamber, which is not dangerous unless way, way out of specs.
Another thing not mentioned is that the two rifles use different bolts, not important safety wise but you may want to keep them correct. Again, since you use light loads or even service loads---I would not worry.

[psteinmayer]

Incase you're interested, here is the link to the experiment Dick was referring to... where the Krag was destroyed. Pretty interesting reading. http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/...=251923&page=2

I wouldn't sweat the cracked bolt lug. Take a good look with a magnifying glass and you should be able to see any cracks that are evident. The gasoline trick would be a good idea as well. Stick to well established loads below max, good brass, and proper reloading techniques, and you should never have a problem.

[Battis]

That was an interesting experiment. My little Red Dot loads seem kinda puny and ...safe. Thanks for that link.
I picked up this latest 1898 Krag rifle at an antique shop for $150. The firing pin and rod were missing. I put the firing pin rod and striker from my 1896 in the bolt and it worked fine. The rifling is good, no cracks in the frame or anywhere. A dummy 30-40 round chambers and ejects perfectly. The wood is good. I might have gotten lucky.

[Kragrifle]

Buy a No Go gauge and use it with the stripped bolt. No need to buy a Go gauge since this can be checked with the bullet case itself. Only seen one Krag bolt with the lug sheared off, but always stick to good published data on reloading.

[Battis]

I bought a Field headspace gauge on ebay that's on its way.

[Dick Hosmer]

I don't think Dave and I are far apart at all. Headspace IS important, and if grossly off certainly needs to be addressed. "Nowhere near as sensitive" is not the same "it's OK to ignore".

[Battis]

It took quite a bit of brain strain for me to grasp the simple concept of headspace (it's a noun and a verb which doesn't help). Now it's the actual measuring of headspace that's making me search, research and ask. I was tempted to use the tape method but decided to buy a field gauge. With a Krag, is it a question of a no-go gauge OR a field gauge, or should both be used?

[Dick Hosmer]

If I were to buy only one gauge it would be the no-go. If your rifle accepts that then you should take some sort of action. If your rifle accepts the field gauge - what will you do? I'm guessing (from the tenor of this thread) that you will still have concerns. But, remember that the whole concept of sequential gauging was based on high, and severe, military usage - weekend plinking is unlikely to wear your rifle that much.

Do your cases show any sign of expansion just above the rim? While the Krag is not (despite the test above) the world's strongest bolt action, it does give excellent case support, having a square barrel face relieved only for the extractor, unlike the 1903 where a significant amount of the case head is totally unsupported.

Do your primers protrude upon firing? This is not a foolproof indicator, but should at least be checked.

Basically - especially if you are going to stick with light loads, my feeling (with full credit given to the fact that it is your eyes, and your face) is that you are probably worrying more than necessary.

[Battis]

Good info. Thanks. I'll neck size the cases fired from the carbine and keep those fired in the rifle separate. And check for case expansion. From what I've read, the primers might back out under light loads.