I have been having occasional misfires with my handloaded ammunition, maybe 10% requiring a second strike to fire the round. I am using Winchester standard small rifle primers and a load of 14.0 gr. IMR 4227 with a 115 gr. lead bullet. Could this be caused by a weak firing pin spring requiring replacement? Or should I try another brand of primers, ie Remington? Or maybe switch to magnum small rifle primers? Any advice would be appreciated.
Question on M-1 carbine misfires
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It's not the rifle if 90% of your reloads are firing first time. There is no firing pin spring in a USGI carbine. If your primers are just a little bit high then that can account for the misfires. The primers have to be seated deep in the case with the carbine. If the primers were oil damaged they would not go off the second time. Also make sure your cases are trimmed to the proper length. If a case now and then is just a little bit too long then it will not allow the firing pin to hit the primer the first time but when put in for a second time the case moves and it's just short enough to allow the hammer to hit the primer. A small dent in the primer is from the firing pin when the case is chambered and not from the hammer hitting the firing pin. Case length is critical in the carbine. Cases should not be over 1.90 in length. They must be checked each and every time the case is sized. Trim cases to 1.80 but no more then that. Factory cases are around the 1.85 length.Comment
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I would second Tuna's comment regarding case length. It's a common issue with the 30 carbine, especially if the brass has been fired multiple times. The problem is that the over length brass doesn't allow the bolt to turn enough to obtain "battery" position. Take note of what a bolt that's closed on an empty chamber looks like relative to the receiver lugs. Then, the next time you have a misfire, stop and make the same bolt lug to receiver lugs comparison. What you're likely to observe is that the bolt turn stopped a number of degree short of where the bolt over the empty chamber stopped. For reasons related to safety, the bolt must rotate a minimum number of degrees before the firing pin is clear to move forward under hammer pressure to hit the primer. Mind you, the bolt need not be fully closed in order to achieve "
battery" position. but it must be closed (turned) "enough".Comment
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Two reasons not to use magnum primers in a .30 carbine.
First , there is not enough grains of powder nor any slow enough powders to justify or warrant their recommendation for magnums.
Second , magnums have thicker cups , making your problem greater , not smaller.Comment
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Never had to trim .30 Carbine, but as with any semi-auto OAL and case length matters. 14.0 of IMR4227 is .5 under max for a 110 grain jacketed bullet. You may want to look at that too. What brass are you using?
Magnum primers are not necessary. Thicker cups they ain't though.Spelling and grammar count!Comment
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When I first started reloading I didn't know about brass flow and my carbine would finally fail to go into battery as the cases grew.Phillip McGregor (OFC)
"I am neither a fire arms nor a ballistics expert, but I was a combat infantry officer in the Great War, and I absolutely know that the bullet from an infantry rifle has to be able to shoot through things." General Douglas MacArthurComment
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Would have to go with the reload too. Lots of good troubleshooting info in this thread, but it seems your load is pretty light. I would have to go check, but I was loading 4227 in carbine loads, and seem to remember my load was several grains more. I ram into issues with the ammo not being "hot" enough to cycle one of my M2 carbines reliably, ( hammer down on an unfired round) and I had to bump the load up a bit. I had some commercial reloads that did the same thing. No pressure signs and I do not have the Chrono data, but all cycled the M2s and M1s just fine after the increase.
How does factory ammo run in the gun ?Comment

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