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Absolutely wrong StockDoc. Been using it for years and have thousands of happy customers. Rick B
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Go jo also has a high PH factor( 8), that is bad for wood finishes. So I will live it at that.
Purple power 11ph
You want a PH neutral cleaner, which is what Finn cleaner is. A high ph cleaner will destroy a nice piece of walnut and not allow it to acheieve a natural sheen.
Been wood working since the 60's, .Last edited by StockDoc; 06-19-2014, 06:13.liberum aeternumComment
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A PH of 8 is darn near the same as Natural wood is. It is rinsed off also and not left on so no harm done besides. Rick B
Last edited by Rick B; 06-19-2014, 06:10.Comment
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you are wrong, read your own article. besides why would you ADD to a woods acidity.liberum aeternumComment
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Found some Murphy's oil soap under the sink. My M1 smells lemony fresh now.Phillip McGregor (OFC)
"I am neither a fire arms nor a ballistics expert, but I was a combat infantry officer in the Great War, and I absolutely know that the bullet from an infantry rifle has to be able to shoot through things." General Douglas MacArthurComment
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I'd still like to know if it's okay to put tung over linseed or if I need to strip it first.Phillip McGregor (OFC)
"I am neither a fire arms nor a ballistics expert, but I was a combat infantry officer in the Great War, and I absolutely know that the bullet from an infantry rifle has to be able to shoot through things." General Douglas MacArthurComment
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There have been a number of methods mentioned that include cleaning with water based products
like ammonia, for example. Won't this raise the grain of the wood and if so -- how do you deal with that?
I fear using sandpaper to level the surface since it will tend to erase all of the important stampings.
Any hints?Last edited by Mike Josephic; 06-19-2014, 10:28.Comment
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I do not like using Wet And Dry on a USGI stock, I like the scotch brite pads, they don't load up quite like paper. Sometimes if the paper loads up, and yo do not notice it it can leave a scratch. Some collectors say they can see the fine scratching, I have even seen some of these collectors produce a mag glass and look for the scratches.liberum aeternumComment
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Awwww heck now I am really confused as Ammonia has a PH of 11. Rick B
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You are always confused Rick, it's neutralized by the Turpentine. something you don't do with your, go jo
I can see why you have problems Rick with some, you are an arrogant SOB aren't you? and like to stick to primitive techniques. aawwww heck
besides it is basically an apply then wipe off, unlike the Gojo (which you have a problem of Lanolin) or Purplepower, which you allow to soak in.
I will leave it at that Rick, you don't know what you are talking about and go ruin some more stock.
Bazinga!Last edited by StockDoc; 06-20-2014, 03:14.liberum aeternumComment
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Larry Taylor has long since retired and his site is dead, but I used his stock finishing method on a new Dupage 1903 stock with great results. I cut the sandpaper into 1.5 inch squares and cut the linseed oil (the expensive stuff from the art supply store) with turpentine and added chestnut ridge's military stain to the mix. Very happy with the way it came out.
FINISHING THE WOOD WITH PRE-64 RED-BROWN STOCK OIL
To prepare your stock for a refinish job, use paint stripper to remove the old finish. DO NOT sand the wood !!!!!
Next we give the stock a bath with Mineral Spirits or warm soapy water. This wet bath causes the wood to swell. Small nicks and dents can miraculously disappear to this welling, and a stock that is fifty years old or older will look more to life with a few small nicks and dings left in it. Let the stock dry for 24 hrs. before you start to finish the stock.
At this point you must determine the type of finish you want, or what grade of finish you want, because we all know that the wood preparation is everything. I have done wood finish's from a 120 grit sanding (for an older look) and as high as a 1500 grit sanding (for a show type finish). So the following must be applied to what type of finish you are looking for. The 320 and the 400 grit are for instructional prepossess only.
I use my fingers to apply a sloppy wet coat of oil. Then sand with 320 sand paper into the oil, and start to sand lightly with finger tip pressure. The oil will act as a lubricant, and you will not be cutting much wood with this wet sanding. You will be making wood flour from your stocks wood, and using that wood flour to fill the pores. The wet sanding will cause a black paste to form from the sanding dust, the oil and oxidation.
By the time the paste forms, you will feel the paper wear out, and quit making sanding dust. Get a fresh sand papered continue. Apply a wet coat of oil over the black paste, let set for 20 to 30 minutes, wipe off with a paper towel. LET SET FOR TWO DAYS TO DRY! Then repeat with another coat of wet sanding and let dry. Then switch to 400 grit wet sanding and due two more coats. Now the job gets a lot easier, there is no more sanding. Put the stock aside for a few days, even a week, it does not hurt. JUST MAKE SURE IT IS DRY.
For the finish coats use only a very small minute amount of oil, apply with your finger tips, and rub in with the heal of your hand. There should be no oil left to wipe off from the finishing coats, because it's all rubbed in. Let set until it is DRY! Your wood may not look like much for the first few coats, but the beauty will soon start to show. Your stock will get more beautiful with each coat. You will be the one to say when in is done.....
The original RED-BROWN STOCK FINISH, is the same as it has been for many years, but if you are like me, I like the deeper darker reds, blacks and browns. So I have come up with a stain that you can use on your stocks at any time in the oil finishing process, it is better if used at the start, but may be applied at any time. This is a stain not the oil finish. You will get a 3 OZ bottle with the powered stain in it. Just fill with 100% Mineral Spirits and shake well. You take a cloth or cotton ball and apply to wood before you start your wet sanding. The wood will turn a very dark red-black. Let dry over nite and then start your wet sanding. As you do your sanding the red-black will turn to a very nice dark red-brown......
The stain can also be added to your oil as you do your finishing coats with the oil finish.Phillip McGregor (OFC)
"I am neither a fire arms nor a ballistics expert, but I was a combat infantry officer in the Great War, and I absolutely know that the bullet from an infantry rifle has to be able to shoot through things." General Douglas MacArthurComment
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WOW the new guy comes in and has all the answers.
Again I will say I know you are the fella who was banned from CMP for this exact garbage. I have been doing stocks for 25 years and no issues with Go Jo and all happy customers whose markings are all saved and wood is fine.
One side note so you do not start saying I am trump up business. I am not taking in any more work as I have a few thousand stocks to work on now. Orlando and I will continue wrecking stocks and you can now be the go to guy for all the answers on stock work
Rick B
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