Validity of Website Info

[RGBvr]

As I mentioned in the "1943 Garand Question" thread, I acquired SN 2,989,601. A couple of the major components are not correct. I've been researching sources for a a replacement bolt with the correct Drawing Number / Heat Treat lots and I'm finding differences on various websites.

I'm looking for a correct bolt, and the website in which I sourced a bolt for the SN range of my Garand states a different SN range.

In the opinion of those here, is the Drawing # / Heat Treat lot information at USRifleCAL30M1.com more correct than what might be stated on a commercial website that sells Garand parts.

Richard

[Sunray]

"...for a replacement bolt..." Bolts are not drop in parts. Installation requires proper headspace gauges. Anyway, any bolt with a 1943 date will be "correct".

[BigMo]

Sunray:
Maybe in Canada they have 1943 marked M1 bolts but not in the US. I'm not sure what you are talking about...............

OP:
I use Scott Duff for my references- I feel he is the most accurate.

[RGBvr]

"...for a replacement bolt..." Bolts are not drop in parts. Installation requires proper headspace gauges. Anyway, any bolt with a 1943 date will be "correct".

For me it's a drop in part. I have the proper Go, No-Go, and Field Gauges to check the head space.

Thanks for the response.

Richard

[RGBvr]

Sunray:
Maybe in Canada they have 1943 marked M1 bolts but not in the US. I'm not sure what you are talking about...............

OP:
I use Scott Duff for my references- I feel he is the most accurate.

I suppose I could buy Scott's book to guarantee I acquire the correct Drawing # / Heat Treat lot for an M1 built in early July 1944. The downside is the cost of the book just to identify the bolt I need.

Richard

[fogerty]

Heat lots and Drawing #'s for bolts is probably the least well defined aspect of what makes a "correct" M1 for a specific time period. There is a lot of latitude, so don't worry about being "precise".

[RGBvr]

Heat lots and Drawing #'s for bolts is probably the least well defined aspect of what makes a "correct" M1 for a specific time period. There is a lot of latitude, so don't worry about being "precise".

I had noticed the wide variability of SN range to Drawing # / Heat lots for bolts. Thanks for the feedback.

Richard

[gulliver62]

Ill throw this site into the mix to probably add to your confusion. http://myplace.frontier.com/~aleccorapinski/id12.html
I cannot personally say that it is more or less accurate than other references on the heat lot subject.

[RGBvr]

Ill throw this site into the mix to probably add to your confusion. http://myplace.frontier.com/~aleccorapinski/id12.html
I cannot personally say that it is more or less accurate than other references on the heat lot subject.

Thanks for posting the link . The data presented offers an opportunity to cross match the info and narrow the possibilities.

[bd1]

There are threads on the CMP board that would help you. Use the search function, try "SA ww2 bolts." Expert Garand collectors with far more experience than mine, some are members here, have told me that any SA D28287-12 bolt made in 1943 up to mid '44 per heat lot would be considered correct for your rifle.

[Milwroad]

There are several well known bolt heat lot tables (one is referenced above). You sort of have to take them with a grain of salt as to exact dates as several experts have pointed out. In theory, any bolt used either before or at the time your rifle was made might be correct. The problem is that bolts could linger in bins. Very recently someone was selling bolts packaged at Springfield in January 1944 that contained a bunch of SA-12 S06<> bolts which according to tables were used in Aug 43. Clearly there were a bunch still around in january 1944 so the time periods in those famous tables must be viewed as roughly correct not exact.