Thank you all for the contact info. I had thought of sending the rifle back, however it is in great shape. Minimal wear on the rifle and the gauges within new specs. I will try and upload more pictures so all can see the barrel mark and the polished stock ferrule. Yea, I will keep my certificate and sale bill from the CMP as most people will always assume import. If I had not purchased the gun myself I would have been skeptical. Thank you all for help and tonight after work I will get more pictures up. Also, any information I get will be passed along. Thanks.
To restore or not?
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If it was mine I would try to locate a proper barrel in the correct 3 month range. They are fairly easy to find post-war. That plus the couple of parts easily changed out, would make it a "Period Correct" Garand and worth more .. to me anyway.
It's part of the fun in collecting Garands. You find out what you need, then watch the Buy and Sell Boards, the Auction Boards, even E-Pay. When one pops up, you spring into action... and fast.--------------------------------
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The rifle was original when it left the factory and became unoriginal when the first part was swapped out and it can never be original again.
The CMP certificate is worthless. You can buy a bare receiver from the CMP with a certificate and build up whatever you like. I know of a trust fund baby that just went there with six buddies and bought 72 Garands. He is stripping them down and making them "correct" (a bogus term if there ever was one) and reselling them for profit with their CMP certificate.
If it were me, I'd leave it alone and enjoy it for what it is, a darn good rifle!Phillip McGregor (OFC)
"I am neither a fire arms nor a ballistics expert, but I was a combat infantry officer in the Great War, and I absolutely know that the bullet from an infantry rifle has to be able to shoot through things." General Douglas MacArthurComment
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To answer your original question it wouldn't hurt anything to add the correct parts to your rifle as those parts do not have any real historical value as to that particular rifle nor is it in itself a particularly rare rifle. Now if it was a late WW II rifle with the correct parts for a 52 dated build or an SA-52 marked reduild with period correct parts or an O-65-67 marked rebuild that would be different as the parts can add to the provenance. As to the scratched off mark on the barrel given the barrel date I would guess it is original to the rifle and I would not mess with it. Two possible explanation that I can think of for the barrel marks would be a possible NM marked barrel that was rejected for not meeting NM standards and put back in regular production in time to be mated to your rifle or the rifle was slated to be a NM and rejected for some reason and the NM scratched out. Of course this is all just a guess.Comment
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No M1 Rifle needs nor is its value increased with "correct" parts. Doing it is a waste of time and money. If you do so and subsequently sell the rifle as a "correct" rifle without telling the prospective buyer you put 'em in, it's fraudulent. Oh and the picture in post 8 is a gouge. Not a grind or scrape mark. Too irregular for anything else.
The trust fund baby is violating his agreement with the CMP too.Spelling and grammar count!Comment
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To restore or not to restore is your prerogative-it's you rifle. I have a SA rebuild that I bought through the DCM back in 1972. It has a SA receiver and WRA bolt with a couple of other mixed parts. The condition is unfired/pristine condition -just as it left the Armory after rebuilld. The barrel is stamped "T" which means it was test fired and targeted. As far as I am concerned, this rifle is in RFI (ready for issue) condition and I do not intend to change one part. I have not fired it and probably will not. I have a NM M1, and a "built" Match grade M1 which I have shot in competition. I know that this is a "rebuild" and of no collector value, but I am not a collector-I thought that it was well worth the $98.00 I paid for it..Comment
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Keep in mind that the NM inscription that is located on the barrel between the rings of the gas cylinder is NOT inscribed until AFTER the rifle has passed all required tests. This inscription indicates that the rifle has been accepted as a NM rifle. Also Type 1 NM rifles were selected from regular production and will have a barrel consistent with all rifles of the same time period.Two possible explanation that I can think of for the barrel marks would be a possible NM marked barrel that was rejected for not meeting NM standards and put back in regular production in time to be mated to your rifle or the rifle was slated to be a NM and rejected for some reason and the NM scratched out. Of course this is all just a guess.Comment
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Update. I contacted Bob Seijas and he said 4000 NMs were sent to Greece and another 3k more were disassembled. He said it is possible that my rifle was one of those but there is no way of knowing if the US military or the Greeks removed the stamp on the barrel. No way of knowing if my gun was a NM or not. It does however fit in the serial number range of many NM rifles.
Fun to speculate if nothing else.Last edited by CodyT; 11-24-2014, 05:32.Comment
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again.... the best advice that you received. was given by Dean of DGR. a very noted M1 Garand smith............paraphrasing Dean,....... to replace parts to return your rifle to a correct status is your choice. But if you do replace the bolt with another. it MUST be checked to see if it head space's correctly on the barrel....... regardless if it is the correct revision number or color........... it Must headspace as good before you can leave it in the rifle..........If it was mine... I'd have it headspace checked before I bought the replacement bolt...............be safe, enjoy life, journey well
da gimp
OFC, Mo. ChapterComment
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Judging from the number of Garand parts sold on Ebay, Gunbroker and other sites, it appears that the restoration hobby is still quite strong. Restorations in all fields is just in our human DNA. Cars, motorcycles, homes, furniture, repurposing old stuff..........The sheer number of Garand source books and periodicals, scream at us to participate to improve the old gun a bit. Presenting something as original or correct, is just a click away at Gunbroker....some very nice stuff and some obviously restored stuff sells briskly.......caveat emptor.Comment
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My lone early WWII Winchester was bought from the CMP about 14-15 years ago. Naturally it had nearly all SA parts. Along the way I have acquired Win parts to where it's now about 95% "Original" period parts. Just last year I was able to score a WWII Winchester barrel with a TE of about 2.0. When I was screwing it onto the receiver, I was GIDDY with excitement. I said to myself, "This stuff is FUN ......".No M1 Rifle needs nor is its value increased with "correct" parts. Doing it is a waste of time and money. If you do so and subsequently sell the rifle as a "correct" rifle without telling the prospective buyer you put 'em in, it's fraudulent. Oh and the picture in post 8 is a gouge. Not a grind or scrape mark. Too irregular for anything else.
The trust fund baby is violating his agreement with the CMP too.
Do YOU think it's worth more now than when I bought it?--------------------------------
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I would bet it is worth more with Winchester parts vs SA. How about my May of '43 SA. I bought it as a Danish less wood. It did have the original May of '43 barrel and a few other small parts that were correct for the rifle. After about 1 year of searching for correct parts and a suitable EMCF stock it is all correct. I would say it is worth more now than the $295 I bought it for.Comment
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I do agree with the folks that say do what makes you happy with the rifle. I have friends with M1s that are complete mixups and they couldn't care less. But yes I will use my headspace gauges if I get the correct period bolt for the rifle. I do thank you all for you input.Comment

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