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Have aquired an 03A3 in C-stock, do I need to do any thing to it?
Posted By: Richard Sheppard <sheppjr@bellsouth.net>
Date: Thursday, 15 July 1999, at 9:25 a.m.
In Response To: Have aquired an 03A3 in C-stock, do I need to do any thing to it? (Sights)
There are a number of things you can do to improve the accuracy of the M1903 and M1903A3 rifles centered around improving the bedding of the action and barrel in the stock. The bedding system involves a free-floating barrel except for the short bearing portion at the fore-end tip. The rear sight sleeve on M1903 rifles should also be free floating.
The basic requirements are:
1. The barrel must bear against the tip of the fore-end with a pressure of from seven to ten pounds.
2. The recoil shoulder of the receiver must be in intimate contact with the recoil shoulder of the stock and a very slight gap or clearance should always exist between the bottom of the receiver and the top edge of the magazine well.
(Note:In some instances it may be necessary to put shims under the trigger guard tangs to obtain this necessary clearance.)
3. A slight clearance at the rear tang of the receiver should be provided to prevent splitting of the stock at this point.
These requriements are achieved by first bedding the action correctly and then adjusting the fore-end pressure to give the required barrel tension. The recoil shoulder should be bedded first, as this is the most critical contact area of the stock. Make sure there is no rocking chair of the barreled action in the stock.
After the receiver and trigger guard have been properly bedded the next step is to obtain the fore-end pressure mentioned above. To do this you may have to relieve the fore-end tip if the pressure is to great or build up the fore-end with bedding compound to get the required seven to ten pounds pressure. Under no circumstances should the barrel bear against the upper band.
Many old time users of the Springfield altered the upper band by grinding out approximately a 1/16-inch clearance between the barrel and the top of the loops. This alteration is highly recommended. Another common alteration consists of removing the two metal clips from the handguard, as these bear against the barrel and often affect its grouping characteristics.
Hope this helps,
Richard
Tip on "improving" 03A3 as a Service Grade Rifle
Posted By: Gus Fisher
Date: Thursday, 15 July 1999, at 10:58 a.m.
In Response To: Have aquired an 03A3 in C-stock, do I need to do any thing to it? (Sights)
"Improving" an M1903A3 rifle depends on if you want to keep it as a standard service grade, or within period parameters, or want to go whole hog.
I suggest against going whole hog unless the stock is very bad and the barrel needs replaced. No sense in ruining the collector value. (O.K., E.G.?)
For a service grade rifle, I would suggest making sure you have the longest possible firing pin spring. This will speed up lock time. I also suggest having the crown "touched up", if required (this is also period, so it won't hurt the value).
Check the rear sight to make sure it has tension, positive clicks, and base isn't moving around in the dove tail slot. You may have some polishing done on the trigger, but no grinding or filing.
Check to see if the trigger guard screws are tight and are bottoming out on the receiver. Mark the ends with magic marker, run them in tight, back them out and check for wear on the marked end. If the end shows wear marks, take a little off the end until it no longer touches.
If the action works a little stiff, you may use some very fine lapping compound on the rails. Lap the bolt lugs ONLY if you have a set of headspace gages to check your work. Both procedures are listed on 03 books from the 1930's.
Make sure the tang on the rear of the action has about 1/32" clearance between it and the stock so it doesn't split the stock.
That's about all I can think of for leaving it in service condition.
Re: .Tip on "improving" 03A3 within period parameters.
Posted By: Gus Fisher
Date: Thursday, 15 July 1999, at 11:09 a.m.
In Response To: .Tip on "improving" 03A3 as a Service Grade Rifle (Gus Fisher)
You will see at least a fair (to large) increase in consistancy and accuracy if you replace the stamped trigger guard/housing with a milled one. (I've seen this done on arsenal rebuilt guns.) The stamped version "tweeks and bends" and makes it darn near impossible to seat the action as good as possible.
You may also want to replace the stamped band and front sling swivel with a milled version. This will make your sling tension and positions more consistant as the stamped version also bends and twists.
You may also want to track down one of the heavily checkered buttplates they used on NM and some of the arsenal sporter guns. I'm not talking about the thick buttplate found on some M2 rifles, as they won't fit your stock.
If you replace any of these parts, I highly recommend you save the original parts so you can put it back into original condition.
Posted By: Richard Sheppard <sheppjr@bellsouth.net>
Date: Thursday, 15 July 1999, at 9:25 a.m.
In Response To: Have aquired an 03A3 in C-stock, do I need to do any thing to it? (Sights)
There are a number of things you can do to improve the accuracy of the M1903 and M1903A3 rifles centered around improving the bedding of the action and barrel in the stock. The bedding system involves a free-floating barrel except for the short bearing portion at the fore-end tip. The rear sight sleeve on M1903 rifles should also be free floating.
The basic requirements are:
1. The barrel must bear against the tip of the fore-end with a pressure of from seven to ten pounds.
2. The recoil shoulder of the receiver must be in intimate contact with the recoil shoulder of the stock and a very slight gap or clearance should always exist between the bottom of the receiver and the top edge of the magazine well.
(Note:In some instances it may be necessary to put shims under the trigger guard tangs to obtain this necessary clearance.)
3. A slight clearance at the rear tang of the receiver should be provided to prevent splitting of the stock at this point.
These requriements are achieved by first bedding the action correctly and then adjusting the fore-end pressure to give the required barrel tension. The recoil shoulder should be bedded first, as this is the most critical contact area of the stock. Make sure there is no rocking chair of the barreled action in the stock.
After the receiver and trigger guard have been properly bedded the next step is to obtain the fore-end pressure mentioned above. To do this you may have to relieve the fore-end tip if the pressure is to great or build up the fore-end with bedding compound to get the required seven to ten pounds pressure. Under no circumstances should the barrel bear against the upper band.
Many old time users of the Springfield altered the upper band by grinding out approximately a 1/16-inch clearance between the barrel and the top of the loops. This alteration is highly recommended. Another common alteration consists of removing the two metal clips from the handguard, as these bear against the barrel and often affect its grouping characteristics.
Hope this helps,
Richard
Tip on "improving" 03A3 as a Service Grade Rifle
Posted By: Gus Fisher
Date: Thursday, 15 July 1999, at 10:58 a.m.
In Response To: Have aquired an 03A3 in C-stock, do I need to do any thing to it? (Sights)
"Improving" an M1903A3 rifle depends on if you want to keep it as a standard service grade, or within period parameters, or want to go whole hog.
I suggest against going whole hog unless the stock is very bad and the barrel needs replaced. No sense in ruining the collector value. (O.K., E.G.?)
For a service grade rifle, I would suggest making sure you have the longest possible firing pin spring. This will speed up lock time. I also suggest having the crown "touched up", if required (this is also period, so it won't hurt the value).
Check the rear sight to make sure it has tension, positive clicks, and base isn't moving around in the dove tail slot. You may have some polishing done on the trigger, but no grinding or filing.
Check to see if the trigger guard screws are tight and are bottoming out on the receiver. Mark the ends with magic marker, run them in tight, back them out and check for wear on the marked end. If the end shows wear marks, take a little off the end until it no longer touches.
If the action works a little stiff, you may use some very fine lapping compound on the rails. Lap the bolt lugs ONLY if you have a set of headspace gages to check your work. Both procedures are listed on 03 books from the 1930's.
Make sure the tang on the rear of the action has about 1/32" clearance between it and the stock so it doesn't split the stock.
That's about all I can think of for leaving it in service condition.
Re: .Tip on "improving" 03A3 within period parameters.
Posted By: Gus Fisher
Date: Thursday, 15 July 1999, at 11:09 a.m.
In Response To: .Tip on "improving" 03A3 as a Service Grade Rifle (Gus Fisher)
You will see at least a fair (to large) increase in consistancy and accuracy if you replace the stamped trigger guard/housing with a milled one. (I've seen this done on arsenal rebuilt guns.) The stamped version "tweeks and bends" and makes it darn near impossible to seat the action as good as possible.
You may also want to replace the stamped band and front sling swivel with a milled version. This will make your sling tension and positions more consistant as the stamped version also bends and twists.
You may also want to track down one of the heavily checkered buttplates they used on NM and some of the arsenal sporter guns. I'm not talking about the thick buttplate found on some M2 rifles, as they won't fit your stock.
If you replace any of these parts, I highly recommend you save the original parts so you can put it back into original condition.
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