Early 1903 questions

[1563621]

Nice job.

[John Beard]

The stock did indeed start out as a rod bayonet stock. The stock was converted later to an M1905 knife bayonet stock in .30-'03 caliber. The stock was converted again still later to a M1906 Type S knife bayonet stock in .30-'06 caliber. The last conversion was done at Rock Island Arsenal, at which time the large "S" denoting the type designation was stamped on the fore end tip.

J.B.

[curio and relic]

Rick, I'm thinking that the stock started life on a rod bayonet rifle. The stock looks to have the holes, for the bayonet, drilled thru the stock webbing.
Also, why would the armory(s) plug the end of the stock, rather than just do a set back of 2/10 of an inch? Is there a small S on the back of the hand guard next to the rear sight?

[Rick the Librarian]

The design of the rod bayonet M1903 was totally different than the later one with the upper band/bayonet stud. They had to plug the opening (which contained the rod bayonet and mechanism. Keep in mind that the so-called "M1903/05" was a transition (although not thought so at the time. When RB M1903s were converted, there was no though that a further conversion would be needed to the 30-06.

The M1903/05 had a barrel 24.2" long, even though it had the upper band and bayonet stud of the later M1903s. When the barrel was rechambered for 30-06, it was .2" shorter - thus the need for the slightly different location for the upper band and upper band screw.

[jarrodeu]

Do you guys have any suggestions for cleaning the stock up a bit? At the very least I would like to get the tape residue off. Would a damp rag damage anything?
Thanks,
Jarrod

[Fred]

Use acetone on a rag. Then wipe all residue off with a cotton rag. and then apply linseed oil and allow it to soak in a few minutes and then wipe off the excess oil and continue to rub the stock down with your hands, working the oil into the wood.

[John Beard]

Acetone will leach all oil and color out of the stock, leaving a light spot. Mineral spirits is a better solvent for wood.

J.B.

[jarrodeu]

Regular linseed oil or boiled linseed oil?

Jarrod

[Rick the Librarian]

Always best to start with the "least invasive" cleaner on a stock. I wipe down with a VERY slightly damp rag, then use a furniture cleaner, followed by linseed oil. As you see, there are numerous was to take care of a stock - but I agree with John; I'd leave acetone alone.

[Fred]

Agree with you both on the acetone. Mineral Spirits is the right thing on this job. I've used raw and boiled linseed oil. I don't have a preference. However after the residual oil has dried on the stock, I've taken Artists Stand Oil, which is a really thick linseed oil in a small bottle, and Hand Rub drops of it onto the stock, allowing the wood to heat up under your hands and fingers as you apply friction while rubbing the stand oil into the stock and hand guard. This will dry relatively quickly after wiping off any excess with a rag. The stand oil fills the wood fibers of the surface wood and when dry, will toughen the wood and give the wood a resistance from light dents and will also makes the surface of the wood water resistant and less likely to soak up water in misty and wet weather. It also gives a gun stock that sheen one finds on antique guns that have been faithfully cared for over their life.

[Emri]

As far as cleaning, I was worried I might take too much off so stopped there. I would rather have it look not clean enough than too clean. I used Kroil oil and 0000 fine steel wool, was this a bad thing to do? Any ideas on the stock? There is what looks like some masking tape residue on right side that I would like to take off but I'm not sure how.

There is no need to use expensive Kroil for cleaning. Any thin oil or WD40 even works as it is a lubricant only and will be wiped off. Forget the OOOO wool as it shreds too easily and makes a mess. You can increase size to OO or even O and it won't scratch the metal but will be aggressive on the active rust.

As for the stock, Johns suggestion on mineral spirits is good. Follow up with stock oil. If the stock is dirty you might try Murphey's Oil Soap followed by drying and stock oil.


HTH,

Emri

[John Beard]

At risk to being accused of blasphemy, I recommend tung oil over linseed oil. If one intends to use linseed oil, however, be absolutely certain to use a type that has been treated to be non-photochemically reactive. Otherwise, the oil (and stock) will turn jet black after prolonged exposure to ultraviolet or sunlight.

Hope this helps.

J.B.

[Fred]

That explains my old Remington 03 whose stock was black.

[1mark]

Remember when using any oils do not wad the rags as they can spontaneously combust. I always put them in a metal can with water.

[jarrodeu]

Thanks for your help everyone! I will give it a try.

Jarrod