M96 Swedish Question

[mcook]

I have recently purchased an M96 Swedish Mauser. A beautiful and interesting rifle. I highly recommend getting one if you have the chance.

I would like to strip it down and remove the wood, but I can't figure out how to remove the bayonette mounting and the barrel band. Any suggestions?

[Dad]

Here you go.
http://www.surplusrifle.com/mausersw...mbly/index.asp
Figs 13-15.

D.

[dave]

Looks easy but it seldom is. The wood has a habit of being swelled up and grease and dirt can accumelate under that band spring. I have two of these rofles and one I have never been able to get to go down. Of course I never get too drastic as I don't want the gun all scatched or gouged!

[dryheat]

fig. 14 in the tutorial shows a trick I figured out myself out of frustration. It's not easy either if you don't go at it slow and careful. The clamp and device tend to slip off of the round surfaces. It helps to put the rifle in some sort of rest(or a padded vise) to eliminate that source of movement.

[mcook]

I thought the spring bars were the way to do it, but I wasn't sure. I did the C-clamp method and that did the job. I wanted to inspect and clean the hardware and barrel, but everything was good. No rust anywhere, and it all looked like it was made a couple of years ago, not 107! I decided to leave things alone, and not remove the cosmoline on the underside of the barrel.

I bought some PP ($20 for 20) ammunition this afternoon, so I will go and shoot the rifle for the first time and see how she performs.

Thanks for all the advice.

By the way, I bought the rifle from a stall in a local flea market in western NC for $250. The bolt S/N does not match, but it is only out by one.
The rifle S/N is 216, and the bolt is 217. Go figure!

[mcook]

I thought the spring bars were the way to do it, but I wasn't sure. I did the C-clamp method and that did the job. I wanted to inspect and clean the hardware and barrel, but everything was good. No rust anywhere, and it all looked like it was made a couple of years ago, not 107! I decided to leave things alone, and not remove the cosmoline on the underside of the barrel.

I bought some PP ($20 for 20) ammunition this afternoon, so I will go and shoot the rifle for the first time and see how she performs.

Thanks for all the advice.

By the way, I bought the rifle from a stall in a local flea market in western NC for $250. The bolt S/N does not match, but it is only out by one.
The rifle S/N is 216, and the bolt is 217. Go figure!

I also like the fact that these rifles cock on closing, like the Lee Enfields do. I think it makes for a much smoother re-chambering than the cock on closing like my K98. Are there any other Mausers that cock on closing?

[dryheat]

The rifle S/N is 216, and the bolt is 217. Go figure-

I've seen that and other number anomolies on Swedes. 118 next a part marked 188.

[jon_norstog]

I think they used to haul them back to the arsenal to have the barrels gauged (and new brass discs if needed) and other repairs. No surprise that parts might get mixed up a little. I've had four or so of the Swedes and every one had all matching numbers.

jn

[gulliver62]

I think you are going to like your Swede. Really accurate gun and fun to shoot. I have several of the 96's and a Mod 38 which is a little easier to shoot standing being a bit shorter.
The gun is easy to load for also and the Privi brass is excellent. The 96 was the gun I used to shoot in vintage bolt matches all the time (until I found the K31).