Reproducing Harry Selby's 416 Rigby

[Emri]

I have decided to checker it myself. No sense in shying away from any task at this juncture.

jt

OK, I just read that after making the above posting. You need more than a single checkering tool. You need a right hand lay-out tool and a left-hand lay-out tool in addition to the single line cutter. Those tools keep your lines evenly spaced, YOU have to keep them straight !! There are some other tools that help to straighten out lines that get to going astray, but you have to realize they are going crooked and stop. Then use the tool to straighten the line out before continueing. Did I mention above that checkering was time consuming ??

Good Luck !!

Emri

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

You need a right hand lay-out tool and a left-hand lay-out tool in addition to the single line cutter.

I have all the cool tools, but my problem is keeping the lines straight. Try as I might, I eventually get that crossover line that ruins the whole job. I try to fix it and cut out the adjacent lines, leaving a big bare spot and the process repeats itself. Maybe it is lack of patience. Whatever, I intend to take my time on this one, maybe half a panel a day and do 18 lpi.

By the way, I had a very nice 7mm Mauser I built in college that was half checkered for thirty years. People who saw it would get real quizzical looks on their faces.

jt

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

The Range

I took the day off from working on the big bore, and decided to take it to the range. All I can say is OMG but does she buck. Offhand I was hitting within 6" of the center of the target at 100 yards. I have to develop my DGR etiquette a bit better before I go to the bench. I might point out that a loose grip on the trigger hand will result in getting your knuckles rapped, which is distracting. I was wearing nothing but a tee shirt, and no problem on the shoulder end. That means that recoil compensator was worth every dime it cost. I did not have excessive barrel climb either, so I guess my ideas on stock design worked out well. I got my ideas from reading Jim Howe's books, plus several others, so I'm not breaking any new ground, just using the experience of others.

I need to practice dry firing to get it all together, as I want to be able to get off 2 shots in 3 seconds, which might be unrealistic. I figure that is about all the time one would have under charge. I watched some YouTube lion charges, and 3 seconds may not be enough. The trick is to have a sight picture almost instantly. I have to avoid that "knuckle rap", as it hurt like Hades. I was having trouble picking up the front sight due to shadows in the woods. I will switch to a "day-glo" green bead and fill the groove in the rear of the back sight with white paint. That should help. I will also use full bore loads when live fire practicing, since it is the recoil I must adapt to.

Anyone have any idea how far away I need to place my chronograph to keep the muzzle blast from blowing it apart?

It was fun. If you have never fired a 458 Winchester or 416 Rigby or any other big bore bruiser, it is a hoot. Don't worry about the recoil, it only lasts a split second.

jt

[Larry C.]

Have a .416 Remington. It is without a doubt one of my favorite guns to shoot. The recoil does not bother me, but after about 20 rounds, I get a headache that won't quit.

Chasteen

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

Have a .416 Remington. It is without a doubt one of my favorite guns to shoot. The recoil does not bother me, but after about 20 rounds, I get a headache that won't quit. Chasteen

They are fun to shoot, but how do you keep the trigger guard from rapping your knuckle? I went out to the range again today, and I changed loads because I realized the load I was using was pushing the pressure limitation in my rifle. I am now loading 91.4 grs 4350 behind a 350 gr bullet, which is on the lower end of the pressure scale, but recoil didn't change much. I did eliminate the sticking cases. I am also shooting 6" to 8" high at 100 yds, but I can fix that with a shorter front sight insert.

Jim

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

Barrel Band, magazine, & Bolt Release

I went through almost a lb of 4350 before I decided I needed to get back to work. I like this puppy, and I will name her Rosey (deceptive, heh?) because she makes me smile.

I tippy-toed down to the hardware store and bought some solder paste. I tapered the barrel band to fit the barrel by turning it on sandpaper wrapped around the barrel (one layer), chamffered the outer edges a bit, tinned it, and soldered it on. I need to clean it up and she is ready for the hunt.

I made the initial cuts on the magazine box (pics below) and will make the front nose piece and the rear plate tomorrow. I moved the rear plate back as far as possible (thickness of rear plate) to lessen the metal that must be removed from the receiver ramp. The nose piece will enable me to load two rounds in the magazine and one in the chamber, for a total of three available shots. To have gone for four rounds would have required widening the magazine, and this stock won't allow that. Note the homemade hinged floorplate and latch. I will have to move the pin forward about 1/4". I will use a standard Mauser spring and follower and should have no problems. Once it is all together, I can start the rail alteration to allow feeding the larger diameter rounds, which includes cutting back and reshaping the ramp to the chamber.

I thinned the stock to almost flush with the bolt release, but left it proud for finish sanding. It will be a flush mount. That's about it until tomorrow.

jt

[older than dirt]

They are fun to shoot, but how do you keep the trigger guard from rapping your knuckle? I went out to the range again today, and I changed loads because I realized the load I was using was pushing the pressure limitation in my rifle. I am now loading 91.4 grs 4350 behind a 350 gr bullet, which is on the lower end of the pressure scale, but recoil didn't change much. I did eliminate the sticking cases. I am also shooting 6" to 8" high at 100 yds, but I can fix that with a shorter front sight insert.

Jim

If it`s shooting high, you need a taller front sight to get the barrel down.

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

If it`s shooting high, you need a taller front sight to get the barrel down.

You are absolutely correct. I misspoke, as I will indeed need a taller front sight. Mea maxima culpa.

Thanks for setting the record straight.

jt

[Larry C.]

Probably all wrong, but I put quite grip on the stock with the last three fingers of my right hand. I also pull the gun back into my shoulder fairly hard with both hands. Not a death grip, but a firm pull into the shoulder. A 2 to 2.5 pound trigger release still gives you the "surprise" when it lets loose so accuracy is not compromised.

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

Probably all wrong, but I put quite grip on the stock with the last three fingers of my right hand. I also pull the gun back into my shoulder fairly hard with both hands. Not a death grip, but a firm pull into the shoulder. A 2 to 2.5 pound trigger release still gives you the "surprise" when it lets loose so accuracy is not compromised.

Thanks, Larry. I am old, and my grip isn't what it used to be, but I know I am doing something wrong. You and I are on the same page with how to hold, but I guess I have a wimp grip. I will install a pad on the trigger guard if I have to. That is a nasty rap on the old knuckle, but the kick itself isn't a problem. If you haven't tried the Pachmyer recoil compensator, I highly recommend them.

Thanks for the advice, Larry. I take it you are a big bore guy?

jt

[Larry C.]

My .416 Rem. resides in a McMillian fiberglass stock (Express Style). It was built on an old, in-the-white Magnum Mauser action I had. It is not ported or have a compensator. I have used it to take even whitetails (rather stunning reasults I might add). Yes, I love 'em. Once you are able to handle the gun, and you shoot it a lot, there is nothing else like it. It's also fun to take it to a public range and let loose a few rounds.... it does get people's attention. On the rapping knuckles, try shooting off-hand. let the gun work your body rather than yor hand and shoulder. I've found I can shoot a lot more often and absorb more recoil off-hand.

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

The Magazine

Since I decided to stick with only two rounds in the magazine, my only concern was length. I moved the rear plate back, and made a new nose piece (pictures). It will take a factory round of 3.720" length with a little room to spare. I will epoxy a slick piece of plastic into the nose to keep lead rounds from hanging on the steel front.

The nice part is that is requires very little inletting to accommodate. Next will be the nerve racking part of the conversion - the opening up of the rails to allow feeding of the rounds. Too much and the rounds just pop out, not enough and the rounds won't feed properly. Everything has to be done just right. Arrgghh!

I included a pic of the barrel band swivel to show the plum color one gets in the early stages of rust bluing. When finished, it will all match.

jt

[da gimp]

an old retired SF trooper here uses a Ruger in .458 Win for hunting (amongst other calibres) hunting deer n such.Billy is about 5'7" mebbe 5'8", was about 160 lbs when he got it, & flat out loves it. He's maybe gained a little in the last 30 yrs.......

[Marine A5 Sniper Rifle]

Altering the Feed Rails of "Old Rosey"

The one thing a DGR must do is feed reliably every time - no exceptions. Old Rosey holds two rounds in the magazine, which means each one will feed from a different side. I also chose to alter the standard Mauser follower rather than buy a "magnum" follower, which Brownells sells. Simultaneous to altering the feed rails, I had to alter the extractor for operation with the Rigby round. That would prove to be a challenge also.

The job is finished except for polishing the rails and everything else in the vicinity. If anyone is interested, I will devote a post on how to alter the feed rails for one of the largest rounds that comes down the pike. I will tell you this - it is much easier to get a round to feed from the left than to feed from the right (last round). Tougher yet is to get a soft point round to feed effortlessly and slowly, which Old Rosey will now do. I believe I have done a good job, and I am considering making a video of the rounds feeding into the chamber from firing the 1st round in the chamber to firing the 3rd round from the magazine. If anyone is interested, let me know. By the way, I did 100% the work while Hurricane Irene was trashing my little farm. I worked until the power failed, went out and drug the generator from the shop, cranked it, set the back-feed prevention, and went back to work.

The rifle will now accept 3 factory 3.720" rounds, chamber each round from its relative position, and hopefully put all projectiles within a 2" circle at 100 yards (416 Rigby's are inherently accurate), which is way better than minute-of-Cape Buffalo accuracy from a rifle that will deliver over 2 1/2 tons of redneck kickass every time you pull the trigger.

All the work that remains is cosmetic or simple in nature (except for the checkering). I will have a bench rest session fairly soon, complete with chronograph data. I expect the rifle to be very accurate, and will accept nothing less.

Semper Fi,

jt

[pmclaine]

Man, when you try to explain the term "Shoulder of the cartridge" to someone that round would be ideal to do so. Its almost like its stepped. Whats it like sizing these things to reload?

I have no interest in Mausers but I have been following this post regularly. Thanks for posting.