Stock Finish

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  • Art
    Senior Member, Deceased
    • Dec 2009
    • 9256

    #1

    Stock Finish

    I have noticed over the last 20=30 odd years that one of the cost cutting points on rifles at the low end of the spectrum (or higher level firearms where there is a need to cut cost) is the stock. As I mentioned in a previous thread I bought a new Marlin 1894 (Remlin.) After a rough start the fit and finish of the Remington Marlins has gotten better. I am quite pleased with the rifle EXCEPT the stock was the closest thing to raw wood you could find without no finish at all. The walnut stock was smooth enough but they might have sprayed a little oil on it. I fixed that with two coats of boiled linseed oil and it looks good now. After refinishing the stock, though it became apparent that the stock and forend don't match, something that didn't happen on old Marlins. A minor issue but still an issue if you're as old school as me.

    15 odd years ago I bought a WASR 10 I am quite happy with except the laminated stock was completely unfinished. Again a little elbow grease and some BLO fixed it.

    Has anyone else run into this problem????
    Last edited by Art; 06-06-2020, 02:21. Reason: Spelling, redundancy
  • Johnny P
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2009
    • 6258

    #2
    I tried just about every commercial stock finish there was, and never found one that I liked. As with Art I tried BLO and loved it. It does take a while to dry, but while reading a military forum someone suggested a 50/50 mix of BLO and Turpentine (the real stuff). It was even better than the straight BLO, dries much faster, and very easy to control the amount of gloss you want.

    Comment

    • jjrothWA
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2009
      • 1148

      #3
      Helped a partnerclean and relube his 870 after it went swimming while walking a river for early waterfowl. [Actually, it dove into the water muxzzle frst]/
      .

      Got back to the house and detailed it and thecheap blueing was rusting more, and the laminated [porous] stack was warping.

      Got the stock dried by letting it sitin a warm oven, while we cleaned an d lube the action.

      Gave him a small bottle of raw linseed oil , warm it before use and and the stock sucked it up.

      Let is wait for two daysand repeat. got tthe wood filled and stable.

      A good stock finsh to try is found in the "Modern Gunsmithing" by Baker and revised by Traisler.

      Nice formula ther to use and some variants.

      Comment

      • barretcreek
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2013
        • 6065

        #4
        Years ago a gunmaker gave me some Alkanet root. Heat up some linseed oil (outside is a good place) and mix it in. Causes a chemical reaction with something in walnut, and only walnut, to bring out a reddish highlight. Also referred to as 'London Red' as a stock finish. Bought a bag from a cabinet shop in PA back in the early '90s, when it ran out called to get more. 'We never carried that; you got it from somewhere else'. "You still at 123 Main St?" 'Yes'. Mailed him a copy of the receipt.

        Comment

        • JOHN COOK
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2009
          • 711

          #5
          ALKANET,, it's still available .. Try Google, several suppliers..

          john in SC
          “Then said he unto them, But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip: and he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one.” (Luke 22:36)

          Comment

          • Kragrifle
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2010
            • 1161

            #6
            Years ago heard of a mixture of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and beeswax in equal parts heated to dissolve the wax. Allow to cool, it produces a paste wax consistency. I have never used it on raw wood only finished stocks but applied by hand rubbing it produces a nice antique finish.

            Comment

            • AZshooter
              Senior Member
              • Jan 2017
              • 261

              #7
              Originally posted by Art
              I have noticed over the last 20=30 odd years that one of the cost cutting points on rifles at the low end of the spectrum (or higher level firearms where there is a need to cut cost) is the stock. As I mentioned in a previous thread I bought a new Marlin 1894 (Remlin.) After a rough start the fit and finish of the Remington Marlins has gotten better. I am quite pleased with the rifle EXCEPT the stock was the closest thing to raw wood you could find without no finish at all. The walnut stock was smooth enough but they might have sprayed a little oil on it. I fixed that with two coats of boiled linseed oil and it looks good now. After refinishing the stock, though it became apparent that the stock and forend don't match, something that didn't happen on old Marlins. A minor issue but still an issue if you're as old school as me.

              15 odd years ago I bought a WASR 10 I am quite happy with except the laminated stock was completely unfinished. Again a little elbow grease and some BLO fixed it.

              Has anyone else run into this problem????
              Samew ith my Marlin - stock & foreend don't come close to matching

              - - - Updated - - -

              Originally posted by Johnny P
              I tried just about every commercial stock finish there was, and never found one that I liked. As with Art I tried BLO and loved it. It does take a while to dry, but while reading a military forum someone suggested a 50/50 mix of BLO and Turpentine (the real stuff). It was even better than the straight BLO, dries much faster, and very easy to control the amount of gloss you want.
              Substitute naphthalene for the turpentine & mix with 2 parts BLO. It has lower viscosity & rubs deeper into the wood easier, and sets up quicker..
              Last edited by AZshooter; 06-28-2020, 06:55.

              Comment

              • Johnny P
                Senior Member
                • Aug 2009
                • 6258

                #8
                Never liked the odor of the napthalene, and the turpentine odor goes away as soon as the finish starts drying. Takes less than 24 hours for the turpentine/BLO to dry, and easy to smooth out to an even finish.

                Comment

                • SUPERX-M1
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2012
                  • 224

                  #9
                  I like blo

                  as it is easy to reapply and fix a scratch or wear.

                  It is said that it is not very waterproof. So , urethane and... may be better for wet conditions.

                  Comment

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