Lithgow stock repair

[JB White]

Ed, you and I had a few discussions over the past couple of decades but I don't recall any "discussions". Aside from maybe being involved in the same thread with numerous others on various boards.
As far as you being banned from other collectors boards, I do recall your being warned about uncredited content you were posting in addition to your behavior at that time. If you swipe someone else's work and take it upon yourself to distribute it...
You were also banned from Gunboards and at least one more that you neglected to mention.

It's a shame that you can't simply offer your work and opinions without expecting others to toe your line and bow at your altar. People should be allowed to take it or leave it without controversy. Too bad. Some of the things you came up with on your own I found quite interesting.

[p246]

Prior to gluing I carefully outline the crack with Waxilit. I use a q tip and toothpick to apply the wax. One must be careful not to get any Waxilit where you want the glue to stick. When the glue is squeezed out of the crack it will not stick to the surface you don't want glue on (booger tracks-technical term). Once the glue dries it can be pulled off the waxed areas and trimmed up over the crack. Waxilit can be easily cleaned off with acetone when done. Waxilit is a little pricey but 70grams goes a long ways. I've had much better luck this way than with tape. Any other methods aside from Waxilit or tape out there.IMG_1503.jpg

[bigedp51]

Ed, you and I had a few discussions over the past couple of decades but I don't recall any "discussions". Aside from maybe being involved in the same thread with numerous others on various boards.
As far as you being banned from other collectors boards, I do recall your being warned about uncredited content you were posting in addition to your behavior at that time. If you swipe someone else's work and take it upon yourself to distribute it...
You were also banned from Gunboards and at least one more that you neglected to mention.

It's a shame that you can't simply offer your work and opinions without expecting others to toe your line and bow at your altar. People should be allowed to take it or leave it without controversy. Too bad. Some of the things you came up with on your own I found quite interesting.

Actually its a shame you get bent out of shape when people post the facts on RLO that contradict you using BLO.

And Gunboards and Parallax Bills is where my Enfield stickys were and closed down and where deals were made between the owners of the other websites to shut down my sticky. And its Badger at milsurps who was served a letter from a Lawyer concerning Jim Sweets book that was put back in print by his daughter. I was told the copyright was renewed but for some strange reason the Australian that warned me never said a word to that back stabbing Badger and he got what he deserved.

And Gunboards is where Alan De Enfield AKA Alan De Pretentious is using all my photos and taking credit for my work. And you never saw any posting in a Enfield forum where I was warned about "being warned about uncredited content". After my sticky was shut down the owner got bent out of shape when I gave out more Enfield manuals under the posting subject of "Free Beer". So go to Gunboards and look at all the images that Alan De Enfield is posting and try and to remember who posted them first. Alan De Enfield never had a original idea in his life and just posts images and information he copied from someone else.

And our "discussions" were the ones just like this one and you not liking someone bringing up the subject of raw linseed oil after you telling people to use BLO.

And anything I posted normally came from all the manuals I had or talking to British and Commonwealth armourers. Meaning you never saw me telling anyone to use BLO.

So here you are getting bent out of shape "again" as usual and spreading crap over the subject of the proper type oil to apply to a stock.

[p246]

Right side crack was spread after Waxilit applied. Tite Bond III was then worked into the crack with a business card. I keep scissors handy and keep cutting away the card as it gets soft from glue on the tip. I work glue in until I can see it coming out on the inside. I then clamp it down with two clamps equipped with rubber pads. The glue will squeeze out and form a line over the crack. I wait till the glue gets tacky then wipe off excess with damp rag. The Waxilit will remain on the stock. Keep in mind some of this will depend on what glue you use.

In the photos you can see the film of Waxilit. I took a damp q tip and traced over where the crack was for the photo. Tite Bond calls for 30 minutes minimum dry time. I leave it clamped for an entire day, probably overkill.
IMG_1528.jpgIMG_1529.jpg

[JB White]

Waxilit...neat trick. That's a new one on me. I've always used tape and a scraper, and paste wax. I'm sure you remember those old drills?
I'll bet the guys back in the cabinet shop knew about it but they didn't tell us out in the field....those bassturds! LOL

[p246]

LOL JB yes I learned it from my cabinet shop friend. He's not a gun guy so sometimes he just shakes his head back and forth at me but he always gives good advice.

[p246]

Both sides glued up. Acetone used to remove the Waxilit for now. I had to order hard maple dowels as the local shop only had stuff that was too big in diameter. Once it is in I'll vertical drill and install the wood pegs. Blend, stain, and finish. Then to see if it still stocks up. Time will tell.IMG_1557.jpgIMG_1558.jpg

[JB White]

Like you said, time will tell. It looks like you pulled it off! Nice going.

[p246]

Pegging the left side close to the back will be the no room for error challenge. Once I get the dowel and look it over I'll know a tad bit more on how to exactly proceed. The right side and front of left side causes me little concern. Plenty of wood to work with.

[oldyella]

nice job.

here's another type of lithgow crack repair.

http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?...a-Lithgow-SMLE

[p246]

Thanks for the link.

[p246]

All pegs are glued in and stain is on. Letting it sit a day or to than the finish can go on. Hopefully the pegs will blend a little more with oil. IMG_1561.jpgIMG_1562.jpg

[p246]

4 pegs total, two on each side. one peg on each end of the crack.IMG_1563.jpgIMG_1564.jpgIMG_1565.jpg

[p246]

Well wife busted me with her stand Oil and it got repossessed. So the art store had one bottle of cold pressed Linseed Oil left. I cut it 50 50 with pure pin gum turpentine. We will see how this works out.IMG_1566.jpg

[p246]

Well three hand rubbing sessions of RLO later and this one is ready for test firing. The Forewood fit right back up nicely. No gap at the wrist face, or at least my .005 gauge never slipped in anywhere but the very top last tenth of an inch. Nose cap fit right back up. I have 7.5 lbs up pressure on barrel, what it was before. The rear handguard had to be relieved slightly on right side so it was not touching rear sight. Draws nice and tight, she should be good for a while. The butt stock and foreword handguard appear to match in color and abuse. The foreword and rear handguard appeared to match from the 45 rebuild. The foreword right now is not as yellow as the Rear handguard. As the RLO ages it should start to yellow on the forwewood. I marked the stock on the inside P246 2017 for whoever gets it in the future. Pics to follow.