Installing a scope on a No. 4 Mk 1*

[Merc]

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This scope mount is bolted onto the receiver with two screws, a nut and a spacer using existing holes in the receiver. No drilling or tapping is required.

The first photo shows the existing ejector screw. Remove this screw and remove the rear sight pin and key. Get ready to assemble the new hardware as shown in the second photo. Remove the rear sight and plunger and spring as shown in the third photo. The fourth photo shows the installed scope. Time - 10 minutes. Easily reversible so save the original sight and hardware. I found out what a great shooter my No. 4 really is.

Addley Precision supplied the mount and hardware. I bought the scope separately.

[bruce]

Outstanding!!! Many of the LE series are very capable of excellent accuracy. Scope makes it much more evident. Sincerely. bruce.

[Merc]

Outstanding!!! Many of the LE series are very capable of excellent accuracy. Scope makes it much more evident. Sincerely. bruce.

I bought the mount and scope a few years ago to see what the rifle could do. As well worn as it is, I was actually able to hit the dead center bulls eye at 100 yards.. Once I saw what the rifle was capable of, I reinstalled the iron sight and tried to tune my aiming skills with limited success. I’ll take it to the range a few times and see if the magic is still there.

The mount is well made from anodized aluminum.

[JB White]

Is that a spacer which spans the rear sight bosses? Looking at their web site it appears as though they offer a version of the Mkll rear sight.
Do you think it would be useable as a see-under backup to the glass?

After having scoped a few with a NG type mount, I have seen the accuracy for myself. However not getting a proper cheek weld made it tiring after a little range time. At least for me anyway. Had the CadTechnic (with a very very low serial number) and without a cheek rest I needed a giraffe's neck

Looks like a good alternative to the S&K mount so people get a choice regarding style and fitting up. Hope it is as rigid and holds zero as well. That's where the cheaper ones always fail.
The very low ones are often reported to interfere with loading and sometimes ejection.
Name escapes me at the moment, but there is also a British-made mount reputed to be very good. Costs about twice as much though.

[Merc]

JB, Yes it is a spacer. It has a flat side cut lengthwise and fits very snugly in the receiver.

Edit: The flat side has a purpose. It must be facing downward in order for the bolt to be removed so that the bore can be cleaned.

[JB White]

In the past, I used inexpensive glass on mine as well. No point in buying very good if its going to be knocked around by a failing mount was my theory.
Realizing something might go awry on an outing, I've always preferred to have iron sights onboard as a backup. I even bought a Leupold 'tunnel base' for a 10-22 for just in case. Turn the knobs and go back to irons if needed.

On the No4 rifles, I used a spare long butt with a repro cheek piece installed. Made the scope much easier to use but the rest made using an iron backup sight all but impossible to use if the need arose.
Since Addley offers their version of a MkII L-flip sight, (in place of a spacer I presume) it caused me to wonder if they managed to find an intermediate sweet spot in regard to scope height and ability to actually use a dual sighting system.

[Merc]

I spoke to the owner, Gerry Addley several years ago before I bought the No. 4 mount. Guessing he may have been just starting out. Now it looks like his business has grown considerably. I’d give them a call or send them an email with a request for info. Their knowledge of LE rifles must be extensive.

[JB White]

Id rather not waste their time kicking tires over a matter of idle curiosity. However should I ever want to try scoping a No4 again, I'll be sure to ask since I'm not likely to forget. I prefer to purchase via phone than website order anyway.

[Merc]

What’s the best way to prevent a scope from moving in the rings due to recoil?

[JimF]

What’s the best way to prevent a scope from moving in the rings due to recoil?

With Weaver sheet steel rings, I’ve scratched/scored the inside surfaces with 60 grit sandpaper. . . . LIGHTLY!

[lyman]

are the rings loose?

a dab or 2 of some sticky stuff, like accraglass gel, or some double sided tape will work,

[JB White]

A 1/4" snip of friction tape centered on the lower half of the rings works too.

[Merc]

I took the No. 4 (with the scope installed) to the range yesterday and I could still hit the target in a 2 inch group at 100 yards. No adjustment was necessary.

I torqued the small hex head ring screws as tightly as I dared and the scope still moved a few mils. I have some double sided tape that I’ll try.

The ammo I shot was head stamped “HXP 83” that I bought from a friend. It’s FMJ military ammo made by the Greeks. I have been reloading commercial .303 soft points so I was curious to see how the military FMJs would do. They performed very well and I’m anxious to shoot more of this ammo, but I noticed a few minor things hardly worth mentioning: The cartridges chambered and shot accurately and the empty cases ejected smoothly but the fired cases bulged out considerably near the head due to the spacious No. 4 chamber. After examining them closely, I’m surprised they ejected so easily. I cleaned the rifle today and it seemed like it took a lot more effort, patches and solvent than usual to get the barrel bore to give up the metallic fouling.

[JB White]

It isn't unusual to have deformed brass in an Enfield rifle. The chambers are generous as you noted. Intended for ammo from anywhere in the Empire and under any conditions. Safe for firing but reloading was never part of the equation.
Modern brass is thinner than milspec so problems can arise amongst those unfamiliar with the nuances. HXP is good brass though. It can be reloaded and if done correctly it should last a good number of times.
If this rifle is the only one you're using it's easy. The brass is fireformed to your chamber, so neck size only.no point in overworking the case body when it doesn't need to be. You can make it look pretty but you might be reducing case life dramatically.

If you have any doubts or reservations simply put up a few pics. Guys here do more reloading than I do and might spot something relevant to your needs. They might also find a quirk which will need attention? Don't be bashful. It can't hurt to let others see.

[lyman]

It isn't unusual to have deformed brass in an Enfield rifle. The chambers are generous as you noted. Intended for ammo from anywhere in the Empire and under any conditions. Safe for firing but reloading was never part of the equation.
Modern brass is thinner than milspec so problems can arise amongst those unfamiliar with the nuances. HXP is good brass though. It can be reloaded and if done correctly it should last a good number of times.
If this rifle is the only one you're using it's easy. The brass is fireformed to your chamber, so neck size only.no point in overworking the case body when it doesn't need to be. You can make it look pretty but you might be reducing case life dramatically.

If you have any doubts or reservations simply put up a few pics. Guys here do more reloading than I do and might spot something relevant to your needs. They might also find a quirk which will need attention? Don't be bashful. It can't hurt to let others see.

your advise on neck sizing is spot on ,

and yes, HXP is some really good ammo, both the .303 and the .30-06 they made