Slugging a bore

[Johnny P]

Slugging the bore is to determine the bore size, and not necessarily the condition of the bore. A visual inspection should give you an idea of bore condition.

Since a M1 Rifle can only be cleaned from the muzzle, a quick check of the condition of the bore at the muzzle is to insert a loaded M2 Ball round into the muzzle. An excellent bore will show about 1/4" of bullet exposed. I have seen some of the Korean imports (Blue Sky) that would take the round up to the shoulder of the cartridge case. Same holds true for the British .303. This is a No.4 Mk.1 that appears unissued after rebuild.

Not scientific, but applying a know to an unknown. Military cartridge is dated 1945.

[Sunray]

"...Since a M1 Rifle can only be cleaned from the muzzle..." Not at all true. And the so called 'bullet test' tells you very little other than what the muzzle wear might be. Tells you nothing about a No. 4's barrel. They can vary in diameter considerably and still be considered ok.

[Johnny P]

Sorry you missed the point. The bullet check is just a quick and easy check to determine whether the bore is completely whipped out at the front, not a precision test. As mentioned, many of the Blue Sky Korean import M1 Rifle had the first inch of so of the barrel completely whipped out from using jointed cleaning rods, showing no lands at all.

As to cleaning a M1 Rifle from the rear, are you aware of any GI cleaning gear to clean from the breech?

[Nate]

180 grain bullets do work but are hard to find. Worst of my #4s is a 7.62 NATO conversion where almost every thing is 150gr or so and boat tail. But US FA rounds are flat based and perfect but will not help a .303 rifle

[IditarodJoe]

Parashooter . . .

Possibly a really dumb question: I have some Olin military grade 00 Buckshot shotshells and will sacrifice one as a source of lead shot. Having never dissected a shotgun shell before, I'm thinking I can just pry open the front crimp and pour the pellets out (right?). Once I've done that I'll want to dispose of the remains of the shell. My question is, is there any reason I shouldn't just put the (shot-free) shell into a break-action shotgun and fire it?

Sheesh!! This thread is really making me aware of my ignorance!

[Parashooter]

Just be sure to inspect and clean the shotgun barrel afterward. You might encounter a wad still in the barrel along with a bunch of unburnt powder that didn't take well to the semi-unconfined situation with no shot.

[IditarodJoe]

Will do. Thank you!

[MJ1]

I have had good luck with my war time rifles with original barrels using the 150g Sierra Game King. This flat base is very uniform and while closed base seems to conform to the bore well. I would some day like to try some of the gas check lead alloy but at base loads with H4895 it preforms well 300 and 500 on steel and looks good on paper at 200 yards. Not being an advanced shooter or reloader I will take what I can with available materials.

Good Luck



Still my #4's and #4T's live on and love 174g SMK's and IMR 4064

[IditarodJoe]

I've been suffering through a terrible spring cold for the last few days and haven't felt like doing anything, but I guess I'll provide an update on this rifle.

With the terrific guidance I've been receiving from everyone here (THANK YOU!! ), I did manage to slug the bore. I used a pellet of 00 Buck and everything went like clockwork. Remembering Parashooter's advice about 5-groove barrels, I was careful to measure it only at it's widest point. The maximum consistent measurement I could get was .317 in. Sounds pretty bad to me. I then took it to the range and shot some of my Federal Classic 150 gr cartridges through it. I fired three rounds and, as best as I could tell, they didn't keyhole, BUT . . .

After each shot, the spent case was solidly jammed in the chamber. It took A LOT of effort to get them to extract - the third one I actually had to wait until I was home to knock it out with a rod. Once removed, each case was pretty scratched up on the sides. That's never happened before. Then, when I was cleaning the rifle, I noticed that the front of the barrel appears to be rotated to the right by a few degrees. I'm sure that if it had been that way before I would have noticed.

Anyway, . . . the number of problems with this gun continues to rise. Too bad, because it was a passable shooter when I bought it and I don't think I've put more than about 50-60 rounds through it since then. Once I get over this cold and return to the world of the living, I plan to take it apart and give it a good looking over. Maybe something will show up. I'll let you know.

Thanks again to all of you for your helpful posts.

[JB White]

Looking back I didn't notice this bit of advice. When slugging an odd number grooved barrel, you can use the "slack jawed" method. Rotating the slug in a dial calipers without locking, watch the highest number showing on the dial. Getting an average usually gets you a good seat in the ballpark.