.303 British bullets

[lyman]

I do not reload a lot of 303., but what I do shoot, I segregate as in keep, the brass for the rifles,

re crimping, a lot of folks crimp everything,

I shoot Garand Comps, and 1903 comps for years, and still shoot AR's in competition, and reload for all, and do not crimp a thing,


WLR or WSR primers, mostly military cases (deburred primers) and Sierra Match Kings

no issues, no drama,

[Phloating Phlasher]

The bolt won?t fully close on a .074 headspace gauge

It isn't supposed to!

That is passing gauge!

Directions for use:
Make sure the firearm to be checked is UNLOADED.
Open and close the bolt on an empty chamber several times, making note of the amount of pressure needed to close the bolt. Knowing how the bolt feels on closing is important for proper usage of the gauge.
Wipe the gauge with a clean dry cloth to remove the protective oil residue. These gauges are made from hardened and ground 4140 steel for precision and durability, but they WILL rust if not kept oiled when not in use. A drop of any light oil such as 3 in 1 or gun oil will be sufficient. Re-oil the gauge before storing it in its bag.
Open the bolt far enough to allow you to insert the gauge on the bolt face, aligning the notch in the gauge with the extractor. The dimxples in the gauge are for identification only and can face the chamber OR the bolt face.
GENTLY slide the bolt forward and with light finger pressure close the bolt. If you feel resistance DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT CLOSED. This can damage both the gauge and the firearm being tested.
The gauges are slightly magnetic and may stick to the chamber face when opening the bolt.

For the GO gauge the bolt should FULLY CLOSE with minimal pressure to pass.

For the NO-GO or FIELD the bolt SHOULD NOT fully close with minimal pressure to pass.

A qualified gunsmith must inspect any firearm failing both the NO-GO and FIELD before attempting to fire it. Failure to do so may result in personal injury or even death!

Don't skip, reloading! There's nothing to partial full length & you probably have all the equipment needed.
Its a one time & done fix.

Basically you just back off the sizing die one & a half turns from contacting the shell-holder. Smoke he neck & shoulder ONCE, now resize & look at the smoke removed. Guess how far you need to tighten to get a fit & tighten half of that. Resize again & repeat in smaller & smaller steps till you just kiss the shoulder to leave a ring of shiny brass. check with a second smudged case. If you're happy set the die lock ring.

The die/press is now custom fitted to YOUR chamber, carry on reloading as before.

DSCF9860 smudged.jpg

[Merc]

My No. 4 bolt does not close completely on a .303 headspace .074 field gauge. The chambers were built overly spacious so that they would not jam when fouled with dirt. The Brits never once considered the prospect of reloading the brass cases which can exhibit a tendency to head separation and other problems from being overworked.

[androck14]

I have some HXP 78 cases that I've reloaded five times and they're still good. I neck size them. I previously had some S&B brass that failed on the first reload

[Phloating Phlasher]

Just reload them properly with quality brass & you'll be amazed.
As for generous chambers that has little to with "headspace", which is limited to the rim thickness.
Anything further forward than 0.074" has nothing to do with it.