Cleaning and oiling Trapdoor stock

[Reeferman]

These are pictures of my 1873 trapdoor. I want to clean and oil it and have been told so many different ways and with some products I’ve never heard of. I tried one method on the stock just behind the tang where it was black. I used lacquer thinner on a rag and then rubbed a thin coat of boiled linseed oil and it seemed to be ok.
I am not trying to alter the stock just want to clean the 136 years of crud off it and then oil it. It has lots of dings and scratches and that’s ok.
Also should the inside of the stock be treated with the linseed oil as well with a brush?

[bruce]

Go slow. Do not use steel wool, solvents, etc. Turpentine applies with care using a soft rag would be useful. JMHO. Sincerely.

[JimF]

Were you able to remove the lock plate and trigger plate WITHOUT chipping the wood?

[Reeferman]

Were you able to remove the lock plate and trigger plate WITHOUT chipping the wood?

It looks like the side plate may have been off before but the trigger guard came out perfect. Used Koba49 YouTube video to disassemble it and everything went smooth.

[Reeferman]

Been trying to find information on the right way to clean and recoil this trapdoor stock but not finding much. The only info I’ve been able to find is on the video by the Duelist on full30. He used lacquer thinner and boiled linseed oil on a carbine stock.
I’m only going to use rags with the lacquer thinner to get to bare wood then start putting coats of linseed oil on by hand. Another question is should I put linseed oil with a brush on inside surfaces of the stock?
I want to do this right and hoping for answers from those who have done this.
The only things I haven’t removed from the stock are the band springs and cleaning rod stop.

[free1954]

in my opinion, lacquer thinner is too harsh. from your pics your stock doesn't look that bad.

[Emri]

in my opinion, lacquer thinner is too harsh. from your pics your stock doesn't look that bad.

I agree with free1954. Use mineral spirits to clean the surface. It won't remove patina and won't harm the wood. Re-oil with linseed oil. Yes, you can brush it inside the stock but, do not let it pool and dry. After a while to soak in, remove excess with rags, a tooth brush and compressed air if you have it.

Good Luck !!

Emri

[Reeferman]

There really isn’t any patina on the wood. Only stocks I have refinished are newer ones. Used lacquer thinner and then tru oil.
I figured if I took it down to the wood with lacquer thinner then rubbed half dozen or so coats of linseed oil on it and no sanding with anything it would still look the same but clean.

[Tkacook]

I wipe mine down with denatured alcohol first. Then I would just wipe the stock down with BLO - Boiled linseed Oil. It will remove dirt. Many applications will work better than just one. Don't try and glop a bunch on with each application. Let it dry between coats. The old adage once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year works pretty well. After that, maintenance applications are all that are needed.

[Mark Daiute]

I simply rub down repeatedly with lemon oil. Not lemon oil soap, just lemon oil. Denatured alcohol will remove the original finish.

[Tkacook]

I have never had it do that on mine. Maybe because I go light? Curious.

[steved66]

In my experience, no matter what chemical you use to clean the crud off the stock, the patina of the wood will be the same. Whether it's alcohol, acetone, turpentine, mineral spirits or aggressive chemical strip, the vintage patina will be restored once you rub in the BLO, provided that you do not use any abrasives in the cleaning process, just rags or paper towels. Only when you start removing wood cells by abrading with sand paper or strong steel wool (0000 doesn't do it) will you change the patina from the dark "restored" look to the lighter "refinished" look.

[Reeferman]

In my experience, no matter what chemical you use to clean the crud off the stock, the patina of the wood will be the same. Whether it's alcohol, acetone, turpentine, mineral spirits or aggressive chemical strip, the vintage patina will be restored once you rub in the BLO, provided that you do not use any abrasives in the cleaning process, just rags or paper towels. Only when you start removing wood cells by abrading with sand paper or strong steel wool (0000 doesn't do it) will you change the patina from the dark "restored" look to the lighter "refinished" look.

This stock is no where near as dark as a lot I’ve seen. Still working on getting the last of the lead out of the barrel. Will start on the stock in the next couple weeks.
Thanks for all the replies.

[Carlsr]

I have used the process described on this site by Dick Hosmer. Worked well for me even though I wasn't sure if I got the mixture correct. Not sure if 1/2 meant a cup or table spoon, I used 1/2 cup. After cleaning I then used Renaissance Wax which keeps the stock from drying out. Here is the site http://www.trapdoorcollector.com/restoration.html

[Dick Hosmer]

As I recall, the guy I got it from (now passed) used a cup of turps and a cup of linseed, with a heaping tablespoon of pumice. Kept the whole thing in an old (large) mayonnaise jar, it will last a long time, but should be shaken thoroughly before use. He had a second jar, using rottenstone - but he collected fine old shotguns, which needed the ultimate polish. For military rifles, the pumice solution will do the job.