Springfield Model 1873 SRS Check SN: 73920

[huntylterer]

Thank you!

[Tom Trevor]

73902, 73903, 73912, 73918, 73920, 73925, 73927, 72930. Hardly ever see that close an early group and all listed to one unit. 84R [Buffington sight?] 8-28-98 Co-m 4th Ill. Vol. Infantry

[huntylterer]

Tom,

I appreciate you looking that up for me! Looks like I have a lot more research to do. I recently bought the rifle at auction of a pretty substantial collection.

To start off, this is my first Trapdoor so I am new to learning about them but have done a fair amount of research. This one should have been made in Q4 of 1876.

I don't know to how to post a photo, but I do not think it's buffington sights. To my understanding the buffingtons are the most complex of the all. With screws, a triangle, and it even seemed like windage degrees.

I believe mine are the basic M73 sights. Four steps laying down and it flips up and goes to 1100 yards. It has the smooth top screws holding it in place. The front sight is one whole piece and does not have a removable blade which seems correct as I heard that removable blade started after 90k.
I'll post some other info as well.


EDIT:
I got on the computer and I see how to add photos now.

IMG_1348.jpg
A side shot of the rifle.

IMG_1333.jpg
Lockplate with:
Eagle on left then
U.S.
Springfield
1873

I believe that is the M73 Type II Hammer and I do not know what the proper dates for that are.

IMG_1339.jpg
Breechblock with:
Model
1837
Eagle w/ Arrows
US

I am not 100% sure this is the correct breechblock as my eyes is not yet keen enough to tell the differences. I believe it is the deep groove style. I am not sure if this has "rounded" or "square" edges as I couldn't tell a difference in comparison photos on trapdoorcollector.com so I musn't know exactly what to look for.


IMG_1335.jpg
Open Receiver: I think it is the narrow style with shallow gas ports. I'm not 100% in that so please correct me if needed. I haven't taken it apart to tell what style firing pin it has. The breechblock gas a "R" stamp on the bottom side which i believe denotes it is for a rifle.

IMG_1340.jpg
Barrel Markings with additional view of rear sights:
V
P
Eagle
p

[huntylterer]

Here are some additional photos:

IMG_1341.jpg
Solid front sight. Which I believe is correct since I read removable blades started at ~90,000.

IMG_1342.jpg
ESA in oval (no date) cartouche is faint and muddied by dents but you are able to make it out in person at the right angle. This seems correct to me as I read this was stopped in 1877 due to his death.

IMG_1345.jpg
R.D.R. Stock stamp (I don't know what this means) and the Script P in circle proof mark.

IMG_1347.jpg
This is the interesting part which I have not yet found information on, but your SRS check may connect the dots.
US
(Screw)
32

C
O
N A
N

The "CONN" appeared like it would have had to be a one piece stamp because it had a faint double stamp as well. I haven't found any references to this anywhere so far.

Looking at this rifle, it is obvious it has been taken apart at some point. There is chipping of the stock in the obvious locations for when you open one of these up, scratch marks on the barrel that make it evident the barrel bands have come off at some point, and all the screws have been tweaked. It is well dinged up which lets you know it has seen some kind of use. The screw shaped dent in the stock beside the ESA cartouche is an interesting quirk to me. I hypothesize it is from the hammer screw on another rifle and it happened during storage/shipment.
Although this gun has definitely been taken apart, everything is still seeming to be the correct versions to me, but I am still in the beginnings of my research.

Another quirk of this weapon is the hammer only has one position which is fully cocked. Since this is post 1875 I believe it should have the 3-position tumbler. I imagine somebody took it apart and ground off the other two catches so they could easily know whether it was fully cocked. I am tempted to open it up and take a peek, but I don't want to risk further damaging the stock.

Let me know if you have any feedback, comments, or any recommended reference materials. Essentially my research has been looking through trapdoorcollector.com. If there is a recommended book just let me know!

Thank you!

[Kragrifle]

RDR
R D Roper

[huntylterer]

73902, 73903, 73912, 73918, 73920, 73925, 73927, 72930. Hardly ever see that close an early group and all listed to one unit. 84R [Buffington sight?] 8-28-98 Co-m 4th Ill. Vol. Infantry

I apologize for my ignorance, but to give you a frame of reference I am 23 and this is my first weapon purchased as a collection item. I am learning after the fact. Most of my knowledge has come from trapdoorcollector.com and browsing some forums. I saw it at an auction without ever hearing of them before and thought the trapdoor action was very interesting and I had to have it. I have little to no understanding of these abbreviations. I have my assumptions, but I would appreciate it if you could expand these terms for me.

Thank you, Tom!

- - - Updated - - -

RDR
R D Roper

Thank you for your help!

[JimF]

For my money, you can do no better than Al Frasca?s website . . . .and his books.
So I believe you are on the right track with trapdoorcollector.com.

[Tom Trevor]

Since the rifle had for its life been unaltered for the most part indicates state militia service. Had it been regular army it would have received the current sight installed and if worn would have been replaced in service. You can be sure whatever ill treatment it has received came after it left the state control. CONN usually means it was issued to a unit in Connecticut. 32 would have been a rack or soldier number. Checking on line the fourth Ill vol. infantry did serve in Cuba during the Spanish American war. Remove the lock and you can see what has happened to the tumbler to cause the safety features to not function Loosen the tang screw to relieve pressure on the wood loosen the lock screws and push on each a bit to ease the lock out of the mortice. You might put a little lemon oil around the lock to half preserve the wood and its also good for the stock in general. Post a picture of the lock internals so we can see what happened to it.

[alfajim]

Please make sure that the hammer is in the cocked position when removing the lock so it won't chip the stock around the lock plate. Otherwise it will chip the top of the stock above the lock plate because of interference of the inside parts with the stock.

Jim O

[Lead Snowstorm]

Noted your comment over on the TD collectors site - tried to reply there but the limited functionality is frustrating and on top of that my messages kept getting kicked back as spam for reasons unclear to me...

Anyway, re: RDR dates, I have a 512K serial M88 from 1891 with the RDR stamp.

[Dick Hosmer]

Please make sure that the hammer is in the cocked position when removing the lock so it won't chip the stock around the lock plate. Otherwise it will chip the top of the stock above the lock plate because of interference of the inside parts with the stock.

Jim O

Actually the chip occurs below the lock plate, but the point made is VERY valid. Half-cock will work as well, but full-cock is safer.

[huntylterer]

For my money, you can do no better than Al Frasca?s website . . . .and his books.
So I believe you are on the right track with trapdoorcollector.com.

I decided to get one of the first run overprint books from Jim Hill. Thanks for the recommendation!

- - - Updated - - -

Noted your comment over on the TD collectors site - tried to reply there but the limited functionality is frustrating and on top of that my messages kept getting kicked back as spam for reasons unclear to me...

Anyway, re: RDR dates, I have a 512K serial M88 from 1891 with the RDR stamp.

Thank you for this! It provides me with a frame of reference that is quite large. I agree that this forum is easier to use.

[huntylterer]

Since the rifle had for its life been unaltered for the most part indicates state militia service. Had it been regular army it would have received the current sight installed and if worn would have been replaced in service. You can be sure whatever ill treatment it has received came after it left the state control. CONN usually means it was issued to a unit in Connecticut. 32 would have been a rack or soldier number. Checking on line the fourth Ill vol. infantry did serve in Cuba during the Spanish American war. Remove the lock and you can see what has happened to the tumbler to cause the safety features to not function Loosen the tang screw to relieve pressure on the wood loosen the lock screws and push on each a bit to ease the lock out of the mortice. You might put a little lemon oil around the lock to half preserve the wood and its also good for the stock in general. Post a picture of the lock internals so we can see what happened to it.

Tom, alfajm, and Dick thank you for your tips on taking off the lock plate. I see exactly where the stock was chipped from this before at center bottom. Here are some photos:

IMG_1360.jpg
The Stock

IMG_1361.jpg
Lockplate Overview. It's obvious some grinding has been done on the tumbler and possibly even some welding. The fragment of metal you see below the lockplate was laying inside the stock when I removed the lockplate.

IMG_1363.jpg

IMG_1364.jpg

IMG_1365.jpg
You can see that the arm that interacts with the trigger has been ground down as well. I would LOVE to hear everyone's thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Hunter

[huntylterer]

This is a follow-up to my first set of pictures of the lockplate internals. This set of photos is with the hammer closed.

IMG_1367.jpg
The bit welded on to the tumbler is where I believe the proken piece of metal came. I guess this is a catch for the hammer at the full closed position. Seems that when it was fired it broke.

IMG_1368.jpg
Closed lockplate overview

IMG_1369.jpg
You can see here the spring was ground as well.

IMG_1365.jpg
[I]In this photo, I am highlighting the grinding matchmarks on the trigger arm. It appears the trigger was only ground to get the lockplate back in in the closed position from my best guess. The trigger has about 1/8" of play when measured from the bottom "tip" of the trigger. Is that normal?/I]

[JimF]

Appears you need a “new” tumbler.
The mainspring may be OK, even with the grind mark.
Check with Al Frasca at trapdoorcollector.com for parts.
A GREAT guy to deal with!