I've got to do the job I hate most ...

[dogtag]

Probably worse things, but I can't think of what they are.
Putting on new brake shoes. I also have to rebuild the
wheel cylinders, but that part's a breeze.
The first time I did this job was on my 61 Chevy and the
brake drums refused to come off. I asked my friend's son
who had worked in a tire and brake shop.
"Bash it with a sledgehammer" he said. I thought he was
joking, but he wasn't. I was worried about breaking the
drum, but finally plucked up the courage and putting covers
on over the bolts I gave it hefty wallop. It came right off.
"That's why we don't allow customers to watch" he added.

[togor]

Feel your pain on brake work, DT. Just did 4 sets of pads and rotors today plus a full flush. Brake work sucks. Drum brakes suck worse. Bad brakes suck worst of all. On this one we agree.

Anti-seize, liberally applied, and a pneumatic hammer are my friends.

[JB White]

I do my own brakes too. A fellow at the local shop advised me not to try DIY brake jobs on certain newer cars. You need a computer to instruct the calipers to retract. Do it the time prove old fashioned way and it'll cost you $800 per wheel to replace what you broke.

New transmissions are the same way. Replace a trans and it won't work. You need a disc to upload the drivers so the car knows it's there.

[dogtag]

That's why I don't like new cars. You can't fix 'em.
There's nothing under the hood that I recognize.
When they stop - hullo flatbed - say goodbye to a thousand dollars.

[togor]

I do my own brakes too. A fellow at the local shop advised me not to try DIY brake jobs on certain newer cars. You need a computer to instruct the calipers to retract. Do it the time prove old fashioned way and it'll cost you $800 per wheel to replace what you broke.

Boy that sounds like horsesh*t from the mechanic. I know Mopar transmissions need a check-in with the computer to reset the solenoid state after a flush, but position sensors on brake pistons? That sounds like a load. Some rear pistons need to be spun back to reset the parking brake, but otherwise I just crack the bleeder screw and squeeze the piston back. I guess it's possible, another topic for rainy day internet research.

[RED]

You cannot buy brake cylinder parts anymore. We used to hone the cylinder and replace the cups etc. Not any more, you have to buy the entire assembly. I used to sell AAMCO brake lathes to machine the grooves on the drums. Now it is essentially illegal to do that, you have to buy new drums instead. On my new (to me) car you can't splice into the tail light wires to hook up your trailer lights, if you do you, lose the brake and tail lights on the car and it is an expensive repair. You can't even get a spare ignition key from the dealership without spending $150. But all in all, thank God they don't build them like they used to! A 1950's car with 100k miles on it was unusual and worn out. Tune ups every 6K, valve job after 15k, 50k and a major overhaul was due. Today they only change the plugs and wires around 100k and that is a $600 job tearing the top part off the engine just to get to the plugs on the back side. But a car with 175 k on it is still reliable and 250 - 300k miles are relatively common.

[dogtag]

I was going to buy rebuild kits tomorrow.
We'll see if you're right, although it sounds right.
Crap.

[Allen]

I was going to buy rebuild kits tomorrow.
We'll see if you're right, although it sounds right.
Crap.

I've heard the same. Haven't dealt with them for many years. I once changed the rubber bladder in a power brake booster. I don't think you can buy those any more either. Disc brake calipers? You can buy them rebuilt cheaper than buying the kit and doing it yourself.

[Major Tom]

The rear axle on my newer Cadillac all wheel drive started doing the "clickety-clack" thing. Dealer said I needed a new rear axle. $3500 later and 3 days it was done.

[Allen]

The rear axle on my newer Cadillac all wheel drive started doing the "clickety-clack" thing. Dealer said I needed a new rear axle. $3500 later and 3 days it was done.

Sounds like a bad CV joint. The rubber boots tear, the grease gets slung off then dirt and sand stick to the bearings and eat them up.

[JB White]

Boy that sounds like horsesh*t from the mechanic. I know Mopar transmissions need a check-in with the computer to reset the solenoid state after a flush, but position sensors on brake pistons? That sounds like a load. Some rear pistons need to be spun back to reset the parking brake, but otherwise I just crack the bleeder screw and squeeze the piston back. I guess it's possible, another topic for rainy day internet research.

Togor, start by looking into BMW, Audi, VW, Mercedes etc. Models which use electronic/electro-mechanical parking brakes. That's already old info. If others have followed their lead since there may be more now.

[Former Cav]

10 years ago, it was $2400 bucks for a BMW X-5 brake job at the dealership. About 200 bucks less at an independent! Thats in No. Phoenix.
WAY back in 1975 I remember doing a brake job for somewhere between 60 to 100 bucks per axle.
that included, turn the drums and or rotors, arc the brake shoes to fit the turned drums. Use riveted and bonded brake shoes, at one place we relined the brake shoes with star brand linings. Man were they ever good. they'd stop the car on a dime even with drum brakes all around.
rebuild the brake calipers and drum brake cylinders. We would also use NEW pistons in the calipers, they came in the napa supplied kit back then.
replace the other springs / parts as needed. clean and apply a special copper/ graphite grease to the self adjusters, and repack the front wheel bearings (you are already their, right??). Bleed and darned near flush the system.
what did I forget.?
and people would Bitxh about the price!!!!!!!!!

OH yeah, first job on the brakes was to BLOW all that dust around while you were smoking your cigarette, and then break the bleeders loose!!

[togor]

Togor, start by looking into BMW, Audi, VW, Mercedes etc. Models which use electronic/electro-mechanical parking brakes. That's already old info. If others have followed their lead since there may be more now.

Friggin' Kraut brakes! Yes, JB, it could be a thing there, agreed. My Jeep has a Chrysler-pattern kraut ZF8 transmission in it. "List" price on the fluid is $40/quart. It's the special additives, you know.

[JB White]

Makes you long for the days when your complicated choice was Type-F or Dextron, doesn't it?

[dogtag]

Well, Red was right, can't buy rebuild kits anymore.
Cylinders will be there for pick up Wed.